Big Floors GarageTrac Diamond, Interlocking Non-Slip Garage Flooring Tile, Durable, Modular, Heavy-Duty Copolymer, Easy Install (Graphite, 48 Pack of 12 x 12" Tiles)

Just built a new shed & wanted some really nice looking & durable floors. Have to say they are absolutely amazing. Easy to install & a great value for the money. Highly recommend!!!

The 25-year-old concrete garage floor in the house I purchased had small cracks, paint and oil stains, a few scratches and peeling paint in some area. The more I looked into repairing and repainting the floor, the more I learned about how difficult and expensive this can be. And then I heard horror stories about even the best epoxy coatings showing tire tracks on hot days or even peeling if the surface preparation was not perfect. My prior house had come with this GarageTrac floor garage covering, and for the 11 years I lived in that house it remained perfect - even under my 4,500 lb SUV. So I decided to go that way again in the new house. Installation is very easy if you have the right tools - a hired helper and I got it done in about 6 hrs. Most of the job gets done very quickly; the edging takes more steps. You select a starting spot and begin snapping the tiles together. My packages came in 2 ft. x 2 ft sections of 4 tiles already assembled. No surface prep is needed at all. Just sweep off loose dirt, and knock off anything that protrudes from the surface. Cracks and peeling paint do not need anything done. Now to some tips on installing this floor: 1.) Where you start is VERY important. While the material is sitting loosely on the garage floor, it is too heavy to move a big section later on. You want the front edge to be just inside the garage door, with just a small gap. The door needs to close onto the actual garage door, not onto this material. You could just place the edge of a tile right there, but it is better to add these items first (sold separatly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0755MNVZ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The floor material in not too think, but you really need these little ramp pieces to make a smooth transition up to the finished floor level. The tiles themselves have exposed "loops" on 2 edges and hidden pegs that go into those loops on 2 edges. You also need to start with a full tile a short distance (leave 1/4" for expansion) either left or right. The best way to accomplish all of this is to first lay a big "L" - a row of tiles about halfway across the front of the garage, exactly parallel to the opening, with the sloped edges attached, in the right depth so the door closes OK. The other part of the "L" runs from front to back. From that front-to-back portion, snap on a series of tiles until a full tile reaches to a point that is 1/4" from a main side wall. (My garage has steps on one side and intruding cabinets on the other, so I needed top find this spot about 1/3 of the way back.) Remember: these tiles have those protruding loops on 2 edges. Orient the tile so that one edge properly engages the sloped garage-front edging. And you want the edge extending to a side wall to be smooth, without the protruding loops. 2.) Attaching tiles The fit between tiles is very tight. The manufacturer suggest that you stomp the pegs into the loops to attach them. But this is very hard on the feet after a while. For most of them, I used a heavy rubber mallet to tap them together. Since two of us were working on the floor, my partner also did fine with a conventional hammer on a block of wood. These tiles are very tough, but don't hit them directly with a metal hammer. 3.) Separating tiles Once tiles are attached to each other, they really don't want to come apart. But you need to separate some of those 2 x 2 squares to get single tiles, and sometimes you'll make a mistake when laying the floor. The only way I have found to separate them is to place a piece of 2 x 4 under the UP side of a pair that need to come apart, and then hammer down hard through a wood block on the other side of the joint. You'll be afraid of breaking the tile (you won't), but it takes a lot of force. 4.) Finishing the starting rows of tiles. It will take you a while and some careful measuring to get these starting tiles in just the right alignment, but it is the most important step in the whole job. Next, add a few more rows of tile along the inside of the "L" along the front and front-to-back section. This makes the whole assembly more stiff, so you can make absolutely sure everything is dead straight and constant distance from front and side. But it won't be. No garage or room of any kind is perfectly square. We'll get to dealing with this. 5.) Laying the body of the floor. This is the easiest part. Just tap into place all of the 2x2 sections you can and then separate ed 1x2 and 1x1 pieces until all possible full tiles have been laid. Now give yourself a break - you are half done. 6.) All the rest of the tiles will require some cutting. The very best way to do this is with a table saw. For each partial tile, carefully measure the distance from the last full tile to the wall, subtract 1/4" and set your rip fence accordingly. On some tiles, you'll need to keep the side having the loops, so you need to compensate for those when the cut requires running those exposed loops along the fence. As with any cutting operation, cut the largest pieces first, so if you make a mistake you can reuse those scraps for smaller pieces. In my garage, I also needed to use a jig saw for small cuts around a pipe and the side tracks for my garage door. My total cost for materials and my helper worked out to just about the same as if I had an epoxy floor covering done. But based upon my prior experience, this floor will last at least a decade - probably longer - and no painted floor can claim that. If I somehow manage to damage one or more floor tiles, they can be replaced. One more tip: We keep our garage rather clean, but we cannot prevent the cars from dripping liquids. So I placed a pair of inexpensive 4' x 6' rubber-edge mats under the front of each car to catch that mess. When they get dirty enough, I drag the mats out to the driveway and hose them off.

Great durability, tough and easy to install

Overall pretty good, durable, good looking, but there were a few of the connections hooks that were broken or snapped. Overall solid

Easy to install, great quality tiles that snapped together easily, no damage. I chose these because they make clean up easy and they can be switched out when needed. I purchased 2 white and 2 beige with lots to spare for my 160 sq ft shed. Very happy with the results .

Our garage is converted into a living area with low carpet throughout. My son is cutting hair in half the space of the room and we needed to do something with the carpet on the floor for his barber chair and toolbox that he has for his barber supplies. Inside of ripping the carpet up from the room or half the room we were looking for something to lay on top of the carpet for the barber studio. I did some research and found these Big Floors GarageTrac Diamond interlocking tiles. I have to say it has been a wonderful purchase. We did buy two of the black 48 packs to cover the area we needed to in the garage. Now the barber studio looks Awesome! The Big Floors GarageTrac Diamond really give it a real barber studio feel. He has a black vintage barber chair and a black tool box, so adding the black flooring really has the room looking great. We also have a black partitions separating the other half of the garage which helps separate the two areas. So the barber studio is all black which looks nice. Besides looking great, the flooring is very sturdy as well. It supports a very heavy barber chair and very heavy tool box. It is protecting the carpet from any damage or liquid spills. My son does not trip while cutting hair standing on the tiles. Cleaning the tiles is SO easy. He grabs his broom and dust pan with handle and the hair sweeps easy with the flooring compared to the carpet. So if you need another reason to get this flooring that add the barber studio to the list of benefits. *TIP for putting the tiles together. Take off your shoes and socks. Use your heel of your foot and step down on the area to snap together the tiles. You will have the floor put together in 20 minutes. It works way better than a mallet. I know it sounds weird, but once we took off our shoes/socks we had that floor together in a Snap. LOL.

Decided on installing the diamond track in my garage instead of the race track since it's easier to clean and drainage won't be an issue in my area. The tiles are well made and easy to snap together, it was a warm day when I installed them and they seemed a little more flexible. The only challenge for me was finding a clean way to trim the pieces against the wall without purchasing the $300 cutter, I ended up making a jig and used my chop saw with a plastic cutting blade and it worked just fine. I also ordered the rounded transition edge and it worked great.

These interlocking tiles fit together well. I used them in two different two car garages in the house. I've had no trouble with the tiles that are on the slightly elevated edges around the main garage floor. I have had trouble with the floor tiles on the main garage where we park the cars. The materials we had were pretty silent about any need to glue or screw these down. In fact, the instructions were very brief overall. You Tube university helped. The problem with the tiles on the main garage surface is that the cars tend to cause the entire floor to creep forward. This ruins the tile edges on the far end because they hit the wall and are compressed, causing them to lose their connection locks. Also, if one is turning the wheels while entering the garage, the tiles around the wheels can move and cause the interlock pieces on the tiles. Thus, be sure to enter the garage as straight as you can. We have to be sure to ease the car in and avoid any hard braking that might cause the floor to scoot. I've tried screwing the floor down near the garage entrance. That did not work because the garage concrete is very hard, and even with a hammer drill I could not get the screws in well. My next effort will be to glue the tiles down near the entrance with a glue I've found that can bond both to concrete and to plastic. In the meantime, I have learned that I can pull the floor back toward the entrance by holding a pair of pliers in each hand, attaching them to the floor with my arms far apart, and pulling back. The tiles bear the weight of the cars well and still look good a couple of years after installation. They definitely look better than the old concrete floor.