MG Chemicals 844AR ESD Safe Coating for Plastics, 850mL liquid

I've never worked with shielding/conductive paint before, but did a fair amount of research and asking questions before jumping in. After looking at a few other brands of shielding paint, I went with this because it didn't seem cheap, but it didn't seem overpriced either. I am not recommending this as a better alternative to any brand or method. Just how this worked for me.I can speak a little to the process, but do your own research and be sure to practice safety precautions. Trust but verify anything I say here.The two project guitars are different enough, I think it's worth mentioning. Both had a spray finish applied, the mahogany body with nitrocellulose (purple), the ash body with polyurethane (red). Both also had some sort of either grain/pore filler or base coat applied as well. Inevitably, some of this would get into the cavities, so I got to see how this paint interacted with the different types of wood and also the types of finishes.If you just pop this open and start applying it, you're going to have a bad time.Get a respirator or heavy duty paint mask at least, gloves, and a good bit of lighting (I used a headlamp). Get your guitar ready to apply the conductive paint by making sure ANYTHING you don't want to get this stuff on is covered. Have a clean lint free cloth on hand to clean up splash and spills.Do not use a cloth to apply this by hand. Get some paint brushes, dip them deep in the mixture and kind of stir it up a bit each time. Then brush the tip against the inner rim of the jar to get off any excess that might drip. Apply it evenly to your guitar cavity. You can use the brush in an upward angle on the edges and just let it ever so slightly slide over the rim of the cavity (1mm or less). Let it dry 3 hours. Do 3 coats. Let it dry at least overnight, if not a whole 24 hours. I won't go into making sure everything is grounded properly - that's more nuanced than I have time for, but I hope this helps.Like all conductive paint, it does splash easily, although I've seen a couple of other brands in action that looked more prone to splatter. If you do spill some, dab and DO NOT wipe if you can help it. Wiping could scratch your guitar. If it's not fully dry, you can also scrape it away with even just a nail (but use gloves).Worked great, did the job really well and looks great. It's a dull, dark metallic gray. Wear that paint mask for your safety but also because this stuff smells pretty rotten until it dries.

I am heavily into DIY electronic projects, most of which involve high gain, high impedance amplifier circuits that will buzz just by having a 1" section of input lead exposed. SO, I really need shielding, like really really. I designed a small array of universal boxes for breadboards and my various projects, and I 3d print them as needed, using mainly ESun ABS+ but also the occasional straight ABS or PETG. This stuff sticks fine to all of my plastics, and the little 150ml can goes a surprisingly long way. One thing - I noticed halfway through the can that the bottom had a deep sludge in it, about 1/2" to 3/4" thick, that was coagulated material. Reading another review here, I saw that he had used acetone as a thinner, and I decided to go for it and add some to try to stretch the can out by getting that sludge back into service. It worked *perfectly*. Pleased with the results but thinking I could benefit from making the paint even more thin, I added more acetone until the paint was very water-like, but still strongly silvery. I *really* like it like this. It flows beautifully and it's much easier to coat a surface before it's sludging up from drying, and it still dries super fast because, of course, acetone. If a spot looks too thin, like I can make out the underlying material, I just dip the tip of my brush in and swipe the area. Before I thinned it like this, my work would come out looking smeary, a bit like stucco. Now it looks much more pro, much more even and smooth. Clipping a meter (BK Precision 2405A) lead to one side of the last project box I did (for small breadboards, box is about 6"L x 3"W x 2"H) and probing around with the other lead, I get an almost perfectly consistent 4.8 ohms, and that's with a single coat all the way around the inside.I can't say enough about this stuff. I used to get the aerosol spray version but had lots of problems with it clogging up on me. Got a can of this thinking I might hate it, but oh **** no. I love it, and I'll never go back. Properly thinned, it's a dream to use, wastes next to nothing but a single brush and maybe one spilled drop, and it isn't flying around in the air. I can do a dozen boxes (and lids for them) easily on one can. Yes, its expensive, but it works GREAT, even for superhigh gain, superhigh impedance circuits like my LMC6081 op-amp projects. Truly wonderful stuff and if they ever stop making it, I'll be really lost.Thanks MG Chemicals! :-)Rick NR417

I was looking for something more conductive but this seems like a good product. I painted a strip on some paper and measured a resistance of about 2250 ohms per inch.It dried quickly and was pretty durable.