DC 12V to 24V 10A 240W Converter Step Up Voltage Regulator Boost Converter Module Car Power Supply Power Converter Waterproof Module Transformer

Works as it should. I don’t find it getting overly warm during use. The packaging was sufficient. I would not hesitate to purchase another if I had another project that required a converter.

I use this to speed the recharging of my EcoFlow Wave 2 air condition from my 12vdc camper van solar power system. The Wave 2 power input "auto-switches" "car" or "solar panels" (where current is limited by the panels). The Wave 2 also tops out at 8 amp recharge rate in "car" mode for either 12 or 24 volts, limiting to 96 watts at 12v. However, the Wave 2's auto-switching/sensing algorithm is flaky - it was occasionally popping a 30 amp breaker at 12vdc. This power supply solved two problems. Everything seems much better now at detecting that it's not a solar panel and this power supply puts out a solid 8 amp without excessive heat (it's mounted on a slight dampened/isolated fridge fixture aluminum structure for extra heat sink, though probably not really needed). It has held for many trips, so far taking the vibration well. And, it provides a good 192 watt recharge rate, twice as fast, and no more popping circuit breakers. UPDATE, MAY 2025: Still working great! It's nice to have power gear that I don't have to think about or worry about!

Bought for a 12v starlink mini which was intended for off-grid use. Thus, It is connected directly to a 12v battery bank without using 110v power or using the starlink supplied 110v converter. I bought this step-up converted due to the long length of power cable between the batteries and the starlink, and the expected voltage drop along that length of cable. It seems to work well so far. The starlink mini has a fairly low power draw so I have not noticed the converter getting hot as may be expected with higher power requirements. Connection to the 12v system was simple and quick using an appropriate pig-tail cable to match the starlink cable.

Didn't work, 13.4 volts in and around 13 out, even under load. I got a faulty unit and it is out of the return window -- I bought it early and only just installed it. However, the manufacturer gave me a full refund. So if you get a faulty one they will likely take care of you.

I've been using a Wuzhi 200 Watt Bluetooth amp in my truck for about a year now, powered by a DeWalt 20VMAX5AH battery... My dilemma is that this battery only puts out about 18VDC, and the amp card can take 24 or more volts... The more voltage you pump into the card, the louder the output you get out... And I'm a Hard Rocker, so I like it LOUD... So, being the brainstormer that I am, I extracted a 12VDC17AH [motorcycle] battery out of a jump-start box, and ran my wires, as such: POS -> batt>fuse>switch>converter>amp; NEG -> batt>converter IN & OUT>amp... (All soldered & shrink-tubed) All said & done, my multimeter measured 24.6VDC stable at the amp end, from a 12V battery... AND it's 17AH, meaning it'll power the amp card for DAYS before it needs a recharge... I've had to recharge the DeWalt battery every day... The end result is I have almost twice the volume and bass as what the DeWalt battery was giving me, PLUS 4X the capacity... I'M A SERIOUSLY HAPPY GUY... This 12V>24V upconverter works GREAT!!! 6 stars... [In the pic, the two ring terminals go to the battery, and the spades go to the amp] GOOD DAY... UPDATE: I've just bought my 3rd one... That's how good and stable this converter is... Never mind a 24VDC external power supply... 12VDC adapters and batteries are a dime-a-dozen... This converter doubles them up to the 24 volts I need for my cigar box amp builds... 6 stars!!!

Powered the converter on without issue. Converting 48 volts to 24 volts. First time draw was for a 160 Kg servo motor controlled by an Arduino Mega 2560. Power began fluctuating wildly and the converter burst into flames. I replaced the power supply and everything worked as designed.

The included no-name wire connectors are trash. They are not essential however so go ahead and dispose of them and just use actual Wago connectors, solder the connections, or pre-twist your wire nuts if you're a real barbarian. The aluminum heatsink is solid and I haven't had any issues with it while torture testing it. The wires seem to be made of actual copper even after stripping or cutting them to reveal more, and are actually large enough to handle a continuous 10A. Holds a steady 24V output under load, duress, and ~100 Watts of absolute abuse. Two screws or bolts hold it in just fine. Wired it in according it to the very simple directions, and everything turned on with the first flip of a switch - no smoke, flames, or smells! Currently bolted into a small but ventilated space, picture wouldn't really help anyone. The heatsink is powder coated and even has rounded edges, which unfortunately removes my usual complaint of slicing a finger open when installing heatsinks. It's almost too good.

Using it on my motorcycle to power a 24V audio system for a few months now. Works great!

No funcionó. No da los voltages .