Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust, Non-porous Protective Barrier, 16 Fluid Ounces, Gloss Black

I just got a used 48" mower deck for a 'vintage' Wheel Horse lawn tractor circa 1991 - it was in amazing condition except for (obviously) the blade compartment. I decided it was worth the work - it really wasn't that bad except for surface scaly rust and attached grass and the topside looked like new with original paint/belts. This isn't just for car restoration. I found POR-15 with great reviews on Amazon and decided to also get the rust remover/stabilizer. I first bought an inexpensive angle grinder from Harbor Freight (7amp minimum recommended by me) with requisite wire brushes. Three passes and most of the red flaky rust was gone and down to 'black oxide'. About half had shallow pitting but most of the metal thickness was intact. I then applied the metal prep as directed and it turned remaining rust in pits/etc. to a grey-white along with non-rusted areas. You could wipe some of this off on the surface after it dried and I decided to wipe down the entire area to smooth things out. Then came the Gloss Black rust preventive paint - I didn't use any other primer. Two coats with a brush only (larger projects need roller) and I'm amazed - it did indeed dry to a rock-hard finish and brushed on easily - including the rusted caps on the spindle shafts below the blades - the more I began using the more places I found to use it on. The finish really looked great. Now my experience tips many stated elsewhere. MUST have well-ventilated area - like outside for me on a sunny day. If you get it on you it's not coming off until nature dictates so you have to be careful and prepared. There's plenty of time before it sets up so there's no rush. I didn't feel any need to wear a body suit - perhaps on larger projects as others suggest or if you're really sloppy. My two pearls of wisdom having pre-read the other comments about not getting it on the lip of the can and being impossible to open (I can tell this would be correct). I bought a pack of 30ml plastic syringes (from China) thru eBay that are just like medical syringes - you can get larger ones if you need more. Open the can (carefully sitting on flat surface) and put the syringe vertically in the center of the liquid away from the edges and draw up however much you need - it's fairly viscous and requires some effort in pulling and DON'T pull it out - I could do it with thumb and index fingers holding the syringe and other fingers pulling it up. In your other hand hold a paper towel - once the stuff is pulled up lift it above the top of the liquid, let it drip a couple of times, and then bring the paper towel under it to catch any loose drops. This prevented any from getting into the lid groove of the can. I then squirted it into a standard paint roller-type pan with throw-away inserts and dipped brush into (or roller if you choose) and paint away. I also dumped the extra back into the can when finished very carefully. It was ridiculously easy and the can sealed like new and re-opened like new. My arms and fingers weren't too black when done :-) The syringe worked for repeated adding into the roller pan (about 4-5 times). Throw away the brush (or roller), the syringe, the pan insert, and anything else disposable because they'll be rock hard and unuseable again. I thank others for posting comments about this product - it's really fabulous and I can't imagine ever having to revisit this deck for decades. It's that good with a hard as a rock finish. I also found myself touching up a rusty metal rail on our patio and other things and intend to use it a lot more than I anticipated. For those small time users like me asking 'how much do I need' the answer is less than you'd think. This entire deck project used less than 1/4 of the quart (most is left) with two coats. This is why you need to preserve the can lid function - most is still there for other projects and I can think of plenty. Hope this helps - highly recommended!!!

Amazing product, it is easy to apply and it stops rust formation and propagation. Clean underlying surface, apply even coat (don’t apply thick), wait for it to dry 24hrs, apply second coat. It is not intended to be a top coat, paint over if it will be exposed to the sun - otherwise it will crack over time. Even used it to protect steel from acid fumes and acid spills, also worked great.

I bought this to recoat my truck fram and man it did the job , I didn't know i purchased the small can but it took care of the whole rear , goes a long ways , covers great with ease just make sure you don't get it on stuff you don't want it on cause it's not coming off hardens like a rock , doesn't smell at all , give a brand new black look

Exactly what I needed - as a mechanic doing expensive projects this is a great place to find good parts cheaper

I bought 2 of these quarts to paint the floor of my dump trailer that gets used commercially and the original paint job was peeling and chipping and beginning to rust so it was time to paint to prevent the bare steel from rusting more. As many who own a dump trailer and equipment know rust can quickly shorten a trailers life or any metal. This Paint was well worth the money it cost. Don't skip any prep work as it is sensitive to any oils or fingerprints that can get on it I highly recommend purchasing the degreaser and metal prep as these worked very well. This paint applys very thin but dries fairly thick leaving a hard glossy shell that was a nicer finish than the powder coat on the trailer! My trailer floor is 14x 7 and 2 quarts was enough and a little extra was left to touch up. I would recommend rolling or brushing on instead of spraying because you will have to thin the paint out fairly enough depending on your spray gun. If your debating on purchasing this paint rather than a cheaper paint spend the money this stuff will last and adheres to rust and stops it! I will keep an update on how this holds up when we start loading stone and abrasive materials. Make sure your careful on your surroundings because this stuff gets on your hands or driveway etc you won't get it off. Im going to have our guys touch up all our landscape trailers with this I will be ordering more in the future. Hope this helps anyone

Undercoated axles, floors, frame and suspension on a '99 Grand Cherokee with a paintbrush. Worked well on everything that was prepped correctly and not too rusted (i.e. not rotted). Only gave it 4 stars because a few of the more rusted areas I still have doubts about long term adhesion. Did the whole degrease and metal prep process, as instructed (which as a side note, the degreaser REALLY works.....dirt poured off the underside). Did bond to painted surfaces without prep, in spite of recommendations to sand first. Took Jeep to the garage 3 months after I did it and was told 'it looks clean enough to eat off the underside'. Be warned though, they aren't kidding when they say don't get it on you...I was wearing black sleeves for 2 whole weeks. Edit/1 year review: After a year, 90% or more of what was painted has held up very well. All areas that had light-to-moderate rust adhered well except for at seams where 2 pieces of floor meet (these areas are still covered, but bubbling up). In hindsight, I'd probably try to force more POR-15 into the seams next time, and prep those areas even more thoroughly than I did with the rest. Drive shafts were bordering on scaly when painted and have retained 100% of what was done. Main parts of floor have also retained 100% except for the seams. 'Triangle' in rear suspension was hard to reach/prep and has retained around 75% of the POR that was applied. Hitch was the same way, which I attribute to greater abuse from dirt, salt, etc. flying off of rear wheels. Edit: 7-8 months later, areas that were most rusted no longer have good adhesion. This is especially true of seams where two pieces of floor/rocker/etc meet. Areas that were lightly rusted or had no rust still have good coverage. In hindsight, would probably use more as very good rust preventer than rust 'fixer'. POR on painted surfaces peels easily. Intend to scuff and recoat those areas this summer

If you follow the directions, it works and looks great. Very durable. Wear protective gear, if it gets on your skin and dries, you can't get it off with any solvent, you just have to "wear" it off over several weeks.

Applied this to rusted areas on my truck. Next day it was dry and appears to have covered the rust completely. If it does everything they claim it will be worth the time,effort,and money. Only time will tell the true story on this product. FYI WEAR GLOVES this stuff takes a while to get off of your skin.