SYLVANIA - Load Equalizer 27 Watt (at 12.8V) - Turn Signal Load Equalizer for LED Light Bulbs, Corrects Hyper Flash & Bulb Out Warning (Pack of 2)

This does what it's supposed to do - adds load to a circuit with LEDs on it so that the system Durant think a bulb is out and then hyper-flashes.

I needed to replace the previously installed resistors (another brand) for my rear turn signals when they began to hyper flash. These were easy to install and fixed my problem.

Easy to connect, no more hyper flash. You don't need 50w like some others sell. I was done in less than 30mins. My turn signal was on its own, only 2 wires. Just a volt meter all I needed to find the hot side with turn signal on. Works with any vehicle. I didn't have room behind my lens to bolt it to the vehicle, I just left it hang loose.

I bought these in order to eliminate the computer error code for my brake lights that is generated by using LED instead of higher wattage halogen. To that goal they work great. Unfortunately, these things get incredibly hot so one would need the proper location to place them. I fully believe they would melt any plastic with which they come in contact and might even start a fire if contacting the right material. I found a place inside the steel wall of the vehicle that worked but one should look and identify the best location prior to purchase. If a proper location cannot be identified , I would not use this. The wire leads are about 4-5 inches on each side and the resistor and heat sink are maybe 3 inches for reference (might be slightly off). Also, the clips they provide to connect the wiring are horrible. They seem super cheap. Just clipping them as shown was not enough to pierce wire coating and make contact with the coper. I had to use pliers to squeeze the halves together in order to accomplish this as well as secure the wires together (so the wires did not just drop out of the clip). A better design here would be money well spent. One might consider getting their own clips to connect the wires. Lastly, they include two plastic zip ties. They don’t reference why (at least what I read/saw in the instructions). I would not use these to secure the heat sync/resistor. If one mounts these as recommended, I would only use a screw into metal (and make sure it not an exterior car panel)

Had the led hyper flash, this fixed it immediately. Only issue as mentioned is the heat. They get hot, so the heat sink needs to be secured firmly to the chassis to appropriately radiate the heat away, otherwise I could definitely see some melted wires/plastic potentially. Had them installed for over a month with no issues so far, so these are a big win

These are an excellent set of resistors that would work well for their intended purpose, namely to create sufficient load when using LED bulbs to get the old school bimetal blinker assembly to cycle properly. A better alternative and the way I ultimately decided to go was with an electronic flasher assembly. Its basically an electronic timer cycling an internal relay. In that was whether is an incandescent bulb or an LED they work just the same. Plus, BONUS, you can adjust the blinking intervaql on some of them.Well made. Would buy again, if I didnt know about electronic flashers.

Used these to fix my cruise control not working due to led taillights on my 2002 Chevy Tahoe. Installed only 1 on passenger side. Worked perfectly. Everything works now. Mounted to metal and made sure wires don’t go near it because it does get very hot

My license plate bulb went out. I accessed the lights & found there were 2. I replaced both with Sylvania 6418 LED's. When I connected the LED's, they were flashing, even when the lights were turned off. When turned on, they lit up & looked great but I had an error on my dash indicating that the license plate bulbs were out.I did some digging & it turns out that the LED's require this "load equalizing" kit. It's supposed to simulate the load of an incandescent bulb, thereby fooling the car's diagnostic system into thinking an incandescent bulb being used. So I ordered the kit.It's really just (2) 6 ohm, high power resistors that get wired parallel with the bulb. So I connected the first resistor to the first license plate bulb. Both bulbs immediately went out! I disconnected one leg of the resistor & they came back on.I gave up. I spend $45 to go with LED's in hopes that I would never have to replace these bulbs again. Instead, I went back to the auto parts store & got a 2 pack of incandescents for under $5.Lesson learned.I'm sure this works fine in many applications. It did not work for me.