CRC 3084 Dry Moly Lube, (Net Weight: 11 oz.) Dark Gray, Original Version

I bought it as dry lube for my trailer jack screws. I like it a lot because it doesn't attract dirt. I also use it on the trailer hitch. It'll wear off after a few hundred miles, but I just squirt some more on. It doesn't come off like grease.

Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with.Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show.Things we learned:1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.Other tips.Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.Picture notes:Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup").Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.

Made my crappy 10w Diode laster capable of marking my pocket knives. Definitely recommend.

Does not mark aluminum metal at any power or speed with 10w laser. I trust its a good dry lube though for what its intended for.

Coating rust prone metal areas that needs lubricant & doesn’t attract dust

I completely coated my LEE #1 Buckshot mold with this stuff and I never have any sticking problems!

I was excited to use this on my pcp rifle inner metal on metal parts like the hammer and tube. After polishing everything to a mirror finish I sprayed with this and let it dry. After 24 hours a put everything back together and noticed right away it was not as slick as I was hoping for. After some light use I saw the surface was scratched off and actually boogered up in some areas. The hammer and tube has a very low tolerance of space so maybe it’s just too thick of a film? I sprayed 2 coats. It actually feels like there is more resistance after applying than there was beforehand so I’m gonna put everything in acetone to clean this stuff off and use a thin layer of synthetic oil with teflon instead.

Works like it should.