Ultimate Mirror Chrome Aerosol Paint 3.5oz

Works surprisingly well. Although it might take some hard work to get best results. I used it on wood, so I had to do multiple layers of a clear coat base to get it as close to glass smooth as I could (3 coats, sand down with 220 grit, wipe, 3 more coats, rinse and repeat. time consuming process waiting for each to dry). If you are on plastic you can probably skip that step entirely. Then you need a gloss black back coating (or, technically you could use other colors depending on what hue you want the reflective coating to be), and you want multiple coats of that. (I went with Testor's gloss black, it ended up with a mirror-like reflection itself, but just in jet black). Once that has cured, very light sprays of the chrome, so you can barely see each coat at all (the first few you probably won't see) with 30 sec-1min between coats (with such thin coats, dries quickly for reapplication). The difficulty is in knowing when to stop, my mirror coating is still a bit dark, but if you apply too much of the mirror chrome it dulls the gloss. Wait a day before lightly buffing it out with a soft cotton cloth (there is a slight film that will be on top, removing that improves the shine, but make sure it's fully dry or you will rub out the chrome entirely). You can definitely see a reflection, though on mine it's not true mirror due to the surface not being completely flat (hard to do on wood, but again plastic such as for models should be fine). But the outcome is it looks like it's coated in metal, which is the goal, with some reflective properties.One note when working with this, be careful at all steps to avoid putting on too much of any spray so you don't get bubbling. Those tiny bubbles show up distinctly in the final product. But this is probably going to be the best you can do for mirror chromes (they are also a lot of youtube videos comparing the various brands, that's how I ended up picking the spax stix based on their results). The cans are only 3.5oz, so don't expect them to do any huge projects. As long as you know what you are getting into, this stuff works well

So I painted all my life with spay paint n never I had painted spray paint that looks very close to chrome. This is the best over all to paint plastic for chrome 👍🏽

Still not exactly chrome but it looks way better than what I had. I goes on nice and easy and is easy to work with. I never expect miracles from a can so I still give it 5 stars as I believe it's the best option out there in a spray can.

I bought this to spray a plastic mask and it turned out looking real good,I woudn't say it looks like chrome exactly but it does look close to it.It sprayed real easy and settled down and started to look good,I let it sit and dry for a couple days before I tried to handle it,I was very disappointed by the fact that it rubs off on the edges and is easily scratched which ruined the whole project.It might work well when its sprayed inside clear plastic but not so good on the outside where you might handle it.

Did some studying on different types of rattle can paint and thought that this Spaz Stix brand was going to be the trick. It is definitely not mirror shine as you can see in the photograph I took. The pencil does not reflect this is a plastic.Photo is of a front light housing for a Chinese scooter. Definitely don’t get very much paint either only 3.5 oz. This may be good for model building and toy train enthusiast but it definitely is not mirror chrome. I prepped the surface with their recommended Spaz Stix black prior to spraying on this grey stuff. It’s more like grey aluminum oxide color.You would probably do just as well going to Ace Hardware in using a silver 12 oz. Rust-oleum brand.I may try spraying a thin clearcoat on it to see if it shines it up a little can’t really lose at this point.

After considerable research I purchased this product to paint a model of the “Scorpion Claw” karambit I made as a project with my grandson. The grips were carved from Brazilian rosewood, and the blade was carved from a 1/4” thick sheet of Lexan polycarbonate. I realize that paints for polycarbonate are primarily intended for coating the inside of RC car bodies, but I had good success painting the polycarbonate receiver of a T2 shotgun model we had made previously. We painted the receiver black using another manufacturer’s polycarbonate paint, and this paint appeared to physically bond with the plastic rather than go on as a coating, so I felt like a paint made for polycarbonate should work for the knife.I read the reviews and noted that other users had achieved varying results. I presumed that those who had poor success had not prepared the painted surface properly or had painted outside the recommended temp or humidity parameters. So I prepared the blade with great care, final sanding with #600 grit, washing with water and dish soap, then again with isopropyl alcohol, wiping dry with a clean cloth.I test sprayed samples of the same material and got an excellent bond. (I was able to polish these the following day and got a very nice metallic luster.) I then suspended my blade by a wire through one of the mounting holes for the grip and built up thin coats, following the manufacturer’s instructions to the absolute best of my ability. I applied 5 or 6 thin coats, and the finished paint job looked very nice. However, after the paint dried it flaked off as if it had achieved absolutely ZERO adhesion. It was like what you might expect painting Teflon would be like only worse.So, I was out $13 for the paint plus tax and shipping, and I had wasted a couple of hours of my time. I had to remove all traces of the old paint, re-clean the blade and start over with different paint. Not a happy experience. And, to add insult to injury, the paint bonded tenaciously to the unprepared black iron wire I hung the blade from! I was able to polish out the wire so that it looked almost chromed.What did I do wrong? Why would this paint bond to two different samples and an iron wire but not to the carefully prepared object I wanted to coat? This is the kind of stuff that will drive you nuts if you let it, and I must say, I do not think the failure was my fault. The surface I sprayed was immaculately smooth and clean. Paint should not be that sensitive to application conditions.I repainted with a competitor’s product (starts with a T…) and got a superior bond and a tough, durable finish. The finish has a coarser, more powdered aluminum look and is less attractive than the SpazStix product, but the paint is on there and it doesn’t feel like it will ever come off.All I can do is convey my experience as clearly and honestly as I can. But, if I was the manufacturer of this stuff, I would be greatly concerned.Would I ever buy this brand again? What do you think?