P2D4-12

I have had this subwoofer for over a year and it has been great! PRICE: For a large name brand such as Rockford Fosgate, this is a very affordable product. I have gone to nearby stereo stores and they all have this subwoofer for around $130. I was 17 when I bought this so it's not just for the crazy stereo heads who drop hundreds to thousands on there speakers. LOUDNESS: With my Rockford Fosgate R500X1D amp it runs great and can be very loud. When you play a song with good bass and turn the volume up your rear view mirror shakes a lot. The side windows move a little bit too. It's funny seeing people's faces when they first hear it. All my friends want a sub in their car now. It is a great everyday subwoofer. It probably isn't the best in competing though. I have a somewhat small car and the sub is in my trunk pointing away from the car. PRECISION: The main thing I like about this product is that it doesn't over power the lyrics. Don't get me wrong the sub is very loud, but I've heard bass so loud you can't even hear the song. You can also keep keep your sub off full power and it still sounds great and it won't blowout quickly. In my opinion this product is just as good as the high rated products. SIZE: It isn't a very big subwoofer. I have it in a vented box which is a little bigger than a sealed one. So it takes up quite a bit of room but there is still plenty of space in my trunk. I can still fit a full sized cooler in my trunk in front of it, if that helps your visual. My car is a Honda Accord so it isn't all that big. The box that you put it in has enough weight to it to keep it in position as well, but it is recommended to strap it down. BASS KNOB (Comes with amp): I highly recommend the Rockord Fosgate R500X1D Prime Amp. It is a great match for this subwoofer. This amp also comes with a bass know which lowers or raises the power of the amp. This is a great addition just in case you don't want your sub very loud or if it's late and you still want your song at a high volume. The amp is also very affordable. It is about $120. Having the bass knob at about half volume is perfect for me. The bass is still very loud, but I won't blowout my speaker.

I commute an hour to and from work 5 days a week, mostly on the interstate, so I decided I wanted to invest in my car (2005 Honda Accord) so I could enjoy my commute as much as possible. One thing I knew I wanted to do was add a sub to the factory stereo. At First I thought about going with a pre-made bass set up like the Infinity Basslink or a Bazooka. After some research I decided I would spend a bit more and get something I would really be happy with. Keep in mind this review is designed more for someone who has experience with doing an install of this type, your own results may vary. After setting my budget, 400$, I decided I wanted to go either with dual 10s or a single 12. I decided I would be better off with the single 12 to help save on trunk space. Since this is a review is for the Sub I concentrate there as best I can. I was looking for 2 things; 1. A Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Sub that could run at 2 ohms 2. A Name that had a good reputation. Anyone who has done any car audio work knows you can tell a lot about a sub by its weight and the size of the magnet on the unit. Since you can't actually feel the weight when shopping online you have to go off of specs and look, in combination with reviews. Since this Sub had less reviews I was taking a bit of a chance there but I felt like it was warranted in this case. I am running this sub with a Rockford Fosgate Prime R500 amp and the sub is in an Atrend E12Sv B Box Series 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure. I get a very clean sound and a solid punch with no distortion at all. The amp has a lot of features that help the set up as well. Once I have a chance to spec out the amp I expect the sound to continue to improve, but even just straight into the car it sounds great.

Rockford Fasgate is on of the best on town, for durability and great sound, just can't beat it.

These things are AMAZING! They hit hardddd . I have them in my avalanche as my Midgate and they shake everything . I have a cheap pioneer 1600 watt champion amp that I believe I paid 100.00 for like 5 years ago. STILL . These subs BEATT! 10 out of 10 do recommend ! They are the cheapest quality 12in sub your gonna get off amazon . And theyre worth every penny . I’ll let y’all know how long they last too. Just gotta keep my hands off that bass knob.

I love these speakers! This is my second pair . They put out such a deep bass. They sound amazing at 1ohm which is the only way to go for me, just make sure your amp is capable of handleung 1ohm. They can be wired at 2ohm or 4ohm as well. Great quality.

With this being my first ever subwoofer, I didn't know what to expect. I've listens to Bose, Alpine, Kicker, and various home audio brands, but never an RF product. Wired down to a 2 ohm load on a RF 500x1d monoblock amp and a vented box, you'll have one kick-ass set up! I've had multiple compliment from friends and other people about how crisp and clear this subwoofer sounds, and also the punch (there's a reason why it's under the punch series of subwoofers!) Be aware! Paired with an RF 500x1d monoblock amp, tuned at 27.5 amps with a multimeter, you will get this subwoofer like I did today. I had tuned it properly myself, while retaining a clear, distortion free signal and a properly set gain and punch level, it seems as though the P2 didn't like it. Even at 27.4 amps, the amp is pushing around 470 watts through it. Rockford fosgate claims that this woofer has a rating of 300 RMS and 600 max. A little overcooked, but being distortion free, this subwoofer should handle it. Being under a 1 year warranty, I'll contact RF to see if I can get it replaced or fixed. If worse comes to worse, I'll upgrade to the P3 so I don't have this problem again... But don't let this deter you! I gave this sub a 5 star rating for a reason! Just be sure to do your math calculation and SET YOUR GAINS PROPERLY. If you don't have an oscilloscope, buy a multimeter. Harbor freight has them for $5. The gain knob on your amp is NOT, AND I REPEAT, NOT A VOLUME DIAL.

It took me several days; I poured over several websites/forums/blogs and spent several excruciating hours wondering: did I buy the wrong sub; did I buy the wrong enclosure; is the speaker faulty; does it not work in my vehicle; did I wire it wrong and is my amp too much/not enough for this sub?! I will address all of the aforementioned and, hopefully, assuage any and all of the similar anxieties a potential future buyer might encounter... with the same (or at least similar) variables as mine. First: what do I have? - a small SUV that is open to the rest of the cabin. - 4 gauge power wire run from the battery - 4 gauge ground wire attached to metal body (sanded) under carpet in trunk - Rockford Fosgate r500x1d prime amplifier (birth sheet claims 630 total watts... and I believe it) - Atrend 1.00 cubic ft sealed enclosure - 1 RF P2D4 12" dual voice coil sub (obviously) wired in parallel with 12 awg ofc (not that cca crap) copper wire to present a 2ohm load to the amp (optimal config for this hardware). - doesn't matter what mids/tweets and head unit I'm using (except to say the HU puts out 4v) because this review is all about the bass (no treble?). Anyway... The first question one might ask, after seeing what I have, is "why didn't you buy the P3D4 (600 watts rms) ding ding- it was built to go with the r500x1d?!" And to be fair, in hindsight, I probably should have, but for as many reviews I read that said they blew their sub with too many watts, I read twice as many that decried the egregious crime of underpowering subs, and erring on the side of caution (you can reduce max power output, but you can't increase it) I decided to not break the first rule of "Sub Club" (thou shalt not underpower thins woofer of Sub; oh- you can talk about sub club, but you do not underpower your subs. never). Do I still have a twinge of buyers remorse... maybe. But it doesn't keep me up at night and that's important (same with love, work and health- if any of those things do- change em). Back to bass... I agonized over whether to go sealed or vented, but ultimately decided for the supposed tighter and "punch"ier sound and went for the former enclosure (specs call for 1.02 cuft; 1.79 for vented) with the smaller footprint. This single sealed sub box is replacing 2 12" MTX Terminators in a vented enclosure (talk about buyers remorse) as the underpowered dual sub set-up and vent was too boomy (not in a good way) and left a lot to be desired (like several hz). I watched a great video on how to set amp gain using a multimeter (which I did) that presented an interesting quandry at first: do I set for the amp rating or the sub rating... I, still being paranoid about blowing my shiny new speaker, opted for the latter. Here's the formula: square root of watts x ohms. In my case: square root of 400 (rms for the P2D4) x 2 = 28.28 on the multimeter. To get this reading, after wiring the amp but not the sub, I ran a 40hz tone (found online) with my HU set at 75% of max volume. This is my starting point. So far so good. But here's where the anxiety kicks in: everything is in phase (with the mids/tweets and their amp) the enclosure is secure, the power, ground and remote wiring tight and correct, gain accurately tuned, crossover set to 80hz and-- it sounded... meh. I panicked. Was this speaker not compatible with my vehicle (highly unlikely- bass is omnidirectional and goes through walls- have you ever lived in an apartment with crappy insulation)? Did I not position the box correctly (front-facing, rear-facing, pointed up even?) should it be closer to the rear door?! Aaarrrghh! I wanted to rip the driver out of the box and send everything back (which sucked because I waited almost a week to get the sub and box- I know, first world problems), but I refrained. And I'm glad. I ended up settling on a rear-facing orientation, hugged against the back seat (see photo) as opposed to the rear door; the box was in the way closer to the back, plus there wasn't a significant sound difference-- to my ear and in my vehicle-- to warrant the inconvenience: after all, I was trying to get rid of the gigantic box that's was already taking up half the trunk space). But what about the bass?! well- I drove around for an hour, crying, cursing the audio gods, vowing a life of sonic-celibacy and pulling into random parking lots every 10 minutes to fiddle with a wire, move the box, adjust the settings on my HU and then cry some more. I went home, disappointed, and slept on it (maybe lost 30 minutes of sleep cursing the manufacturer, but quickly drifted off and dreamed of P3D4s and vented enclosures). Got up the next morning, fiddled with more wires, more settings, more cursing and tears and lots more unnecessary trips to places I had no intention of going, just to let the music play. Now, there is an argument as old as bass itself as to whether you need to "break-in" a subwoofer. Some swear buy it, others say it's hogwash. Many say it depends on the speaker. Anywhere from 10 to 100 hours. Good grief. I did not have the stamina nor will power for the larger number, but luckily-- I didn't need it. Is it possible my fiddling with the wires and box orinetaion had something to do with it? In the realm of possibility: yes. However all the wiring, settings and box orientation went back to *exactly* where I first set them intitally. But after two days (eh- one night and one morning) there was a significant difference (increase) in bass reproduction in the front of the cabin (where the driver seat is, of course). See, when I first installed it, I knew it was wired and getting signal/power because when I went into the trunk area to play with the amp/wires, I could hear bass-- decent bass, but not up in the driver seat. But now I do. And I think it will continue to get better as more time passes. For the reviewers who claim their new sub "slams," I'd be curious to know after how long did they come by that assessment. I do hope to update this review one day with a similarly motivated term, but for now (2 days after install) I'm no longer panicked and questioning my very existence. As much. tldr: good sub, needs a minute to breathe. *****One Week Update***** So- it was partially my settings. And my fear of not blowing the sub. AND a need to break-in. But now, it is pretty darn close to what I expected and absolutely- replaced (sonically and spatially) the dual 12" MTX set up I had before. I've had to drive about an hour (each way) to work for the last week, a I know I have at least 10 hours on the sub (in reality, closer to 20 with all the side trips and weekend outings), she I'm confident dent that wattage I'm feeding the sub is not too much. Another couple weeks and I'll probably ween it off the 400 watts feed a bit more juice (500, maybe?) and see how that works out. At lower volumes, I'm still noticing a lack of bass (but the sub does not disappoint at higher levels), but it's more than likely because my mids and highs need a bit more current to perform at their optimal level and turning their amp down is not an option. That said- I've used to "loudness" function (insert collective audiophile gasp; second rule of Sub Club: never use 'bass boost' or loudness... thou shalt not) at the lower levels and it really did fill out the missing sound. However, given rule 2, I knew I didn't want to do this forever and there are too many sub menus to go through to get to that button, so I stopped using it and (feeling certain the sub was properly tuned) opted to increase sub output in the HU (it goes 1-5, I set on 2) and bump the eq levels from roughly 100-250ish. That helped a good bit and supplemented the need for any dreaded digital boosting. But also, as I mentioned- I drive alot and played music alot and that basically did the trick. Time, Power, Settings. I am no longer contemplating a P3D4-- I can't believe I'm about to write this but-- I think it would be too much bass. For me. I still feel (or actually, I don't feel it- literally) the deep low end is missing (maybe in the 20-40hz range), so I may opy for a vented enclosure in a month or so. All the "punch" is there, as intended, just kinda missing that bottom drop. That said- I'll probably end up with a P3 in a vented enclosure (along with this sealed P2) because "too much bass" be damned!!!

i have a 2003 chevy s10 extended cab with an alpine head (sautered wires will help give you more power than would crimped wiring), 6.5" punch fosgate 55 rms door spakers, 6x9" boxed 75 rms fosgate punch speakers (ran wires from alpine to rear), right now i have an older fosgate dual 2-ohm sub model P3SD212 (shallow mount bridged to 4-ohms) 400 rms being pushed with a punch 400 rms fosgate amp. i bought sound ordinance boxes. sub box is ported and although my sub is a shallow mount it does sound good and clean but i am going to replace it with a P2D212 deep punch fosgate sub to push out the extra air left by the shallow mount to give me more bass sound to push out the ported vents. ive yet to buy this sub but if it sounds as good as its ancient cousin does then i know ill have nothing to worry about with quality. everyone says how clean and clear and loud my speakers are. fortunately i have very little sound distortion but i will be installing dynamat sound deadener on my doors. you cant go wrong with alpine and punch rockford fosgate. Metallicas "Ride The Lightning" sounds sooooooooooo freaking unbelievable. anything fosgate is a 5-Star in my book. (Friday May 15th) just ordered the sub, will update after the install on quality compared to a P3.(Sat Nov 2,2014). Ended up getting the P3SD212 sub instead of P2D212 sub. I sent the P2 back and ordered the P3. There was a slight difference in bass sound and i couldnt be happier. I ordered a 5-CD set of Pantera and OMG its an incredible sound !!!!!! Like i said before you cant go wrong with Fosgates. I may upgrade to a 15" 1000 rms watt in near future. Just remember to install sound deadener on your doors,but remember you only need 1 sub in a Chevy S10, you dont want to crack your windows with too much bass sound hahaha.