Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

The answer is yes, it made my high quality steel knives at least as sharp as utility knives. I watched the knife sharpening review Project Farm did and decided to treat myself to this more affordable sharpener that seemed to get close to the top results on his testing. His complaints seemed to center around user-friendliness, which I would have to concur with. It's a little cumbersome to set up and hold, but in spite of that you can get fantastic results. I would have to say that given the affordability, that still warrants a 5 star review.Now to talk about the results, which are somewhat subjective since I don't have a proper way to test sharpness, but I think they're useful anyway. So I sharpened my recently purchased CIVIVI Elementum because it was losing its edge from the heavy use my pocket knives tend to see. I sharpened to 25 degrees, which is a little less steep angled than it came from the manufacturer. Once done I quickly ran the knife across a strop with some fine stropping compound. I already thought this knife was insanely sharp, but now I think it's even sharper than when it was new. I can cut thick cardboard with it with a single stroke and best of all it seems to stay sharp much much longer than utility blades do, so I've all but stopped using a utility knife. I'll reserve those for when I need to abuse the blade like cutting shingles or something like that.Another example was this long blade in my Henckels kitchen set that I like to use for cutting watermelon. Watermelon is always a challenge due to the tough skin. I gave this knife the same treatment, except I went to 30 degrees due to the abuse my wife tends to put these knives through, and it didn't seem to matter. It turned out equally as sharp as the 25 degree hone. I was surprised as can be when the blade went through the watermelon with a single easy stroke, which I've never experienced before, including when these knives were brand new, or when I sharpened them using other methods.This kit gets blades **super sharp**, so be very careful handling knives sharpened with it. I couldn't be happier. It takes some time to get the desired results, but man does it deliver, and it really beats the freehand honing kit this replaced (been using one for years, good but not fantastic results). You just simply can't replace the fixed-angle honing technique that this kit allows. Don't waste any time, just buy it. The only way I would say not to is if you want to spend the money and get something a little more user-friendly, otherwise it's a no-brainer. Well worth the purchase price.

What a great system, for not a lot of money! First comment to Lansky, offer a kit with the stand! Having tried it both with and without, will never use it without. Second, mark the guide rods and stones so they can be matched to each other each time they are used.Tip: Guide Rod to Stone Matching.Adjusted guide rods before first use so the stones and guide rod sat flat on a flat surface as so many others recommended. Worked great. Done sharpening, disassembled, put kit away. At next use, guide rods were not flat and we're way off adjustment... Rats! Subtle manufacturing differences between stones or whatever. Readjusted. This time, before storing, I marked each guide rod and stone with a sharpie. First stone and rod got 1 dot on rod and one dot on stone. Second set got 2 dots... and so on. Then tested my theory. Disassembled and reassembled. When dots matched on stone and rod when reassembled, bingo, alignment remained flat. When I intentionally mismatched dot numbers on stone and rod, then on same flat surface alignment was off. Do this and save yourself a ton of time and possibly bad results over the life of your kit. This doesn't mean you don't have to check each time you assemble to ensure flat alignment... but it means you will not have to keep: bending and adjusting guide rods.Tip: Consistent Guide Rod Level in Guide Hole on ClampThis is important as variation in angle will occur if guide rod is at top or bottom of guide hole. From what I've read, consistency of angle is important. For this, I've found it's all about how you hold the stone during grinding. I use the stand, so this may differ for those who don't. So to hold the stone, I hold it where the finger indents/grooves are between thumb and middle finger. Also, this grip point is anywhere between the 1/2 way point and 3/4 point of the stone itself. Not the entire length of the plastic stone holder, but the stone itself. Then my pointer finger is placed on top of the plastic holder of the stone. It is mostly with this finger that any pressure is applied to the stone during sharpening. That gives a tripod effect. Stable and great control over pressure, which is less and less applied as I move from courser to finer stones. Of course, don't press to the point of the guide rod bending, as you'll lose your grind angle. Doing this keeps the guide rod against the bottom of the guide hole on the clamp at all times during the grind.I also oil the stones before starting, and as I work my way through course to fine, I oil to unclog. The finer the stone, the more times I oil to clean.Tip: Oil to Clean StonesKeep a paper towel, folded in half, nearby. When you see or feel your stone has become clogged with metal, use the honing oil to bring the metal out of the stone (I swirl oil around with finger tip lightly for best effect), then press into the paper towel. You'll get a black rectangle in the shape of the stone. Repeat again if necessary, always using a different spot on the paper towel. I found that if I rub the paper towel on the stone, that it is not more effective and I end up with 'ground' paper towel on the stone. So simply press the stone into the folded paper towel and it removes the oily metal just fine. And again, don't use the same spot on the paper towel, especially when moving to different stones. Otherwise you risk getting courser grit on your finer stones.Last Tip: Saphire Stone vs. 1000 Grit Yellow StoneI bought the Saphire stone separately (not included with deluxe kit). Nice addition! Highly recommended. However, the order of suggested use seems wrong. I get far better results when I use the Saphire stone before the 1000 Yellow. It feels 'right' during grinding as well. The Saphire stone seems more abrasive than the 1000 yellow.Hope these tips help you get the blade you seek. I have used these same methods on knives costing hundreds of dollars to knives costing as little as $10... From kitchen knives to tactical to utility to pocket folders. Those ground at 30 degrees act as they should, tough and edge retaining for hard use and those ground at 17 hair popping delicate surgical precision.Enjoy your knives and the effort it takes to maintain them!