Waveshare DC3.3-5V 200nm-370nm Response Wavelength UV Detection Sensor Module Ray UV Sensor Module

I really like this detector!Calibrated UV A/B and C detectors usually cost $150-$300. For sure they will give you the exact power deposition per square centimeter, which is something you cannot expect from this sensor, but it gives you a relative intensity measure. The detector puts out an analog signal that can be read with a micro controller or with a volt meter. I attached some pictures that show the voltage reading in a distance of approx 11-12 cm to different lamps.If you are interested in a relative readout, this detector will do the job!It is particularly useful to check whether your UVC lamp actually emits UVC light. The market is flooded with fake UVC LEDs that are sold as germicidal UVC lamps. All UVC LEDs have a brass/metal base/chip with a quartz glass window (only quartz lets UVC pass and plastic bases would be destroyed by UVC). LEDs with white plastic bases/chips that emit a blue light are so called "ice blue" LEDs and they might emit a tiny little bit of UVA close to 400 nm.With this detector you can check if your lamps actually emit UVC light and UVB/A up to 370 nm. This detector is supposed to detect the bandwidth from 200-370 nm and UVC does not penetrate plastic or regular glass. So, if you get a reading, your lamp emits either UV A/B, UVC or both. If you place regular glass between the detector and the light source and still get a reading, then your lamp emits UV A or B, but not UVC!I attached a few pictures of a fake UVC LED lamp, two real 25W UVC lamps (mercury-/Hg-vapor), a UVC wand (Hg-vapor), and a blacklight UV flashlight that I bought on Amazon.The reading in a distance of approx 10-12 cm for the fake UVC lamp is zero when the lamp is switched off. Same reading (0V) when the lamp is on, which confirms that this LED does not emit UV light up to the detection limit at 370 nm. The other two 25W UVC mercury vapor lamps show a clear reading without glass (>=0.5V) and no reading with glass (~0 V).A small blacklight (UVA) LED flashlight gives a reading of 0.12 V through glass.Much less powerful a small UVC Hg-vapor wand at a distance of approx 1-2 cm (0.17 V).... So the detector works perfectly fine and allowed me to determine which lamp produces UVC, UVA/B, no UV (<=370nm) (fake UVC) and even tells me about the relative intensity of the lamps. With a calibrated light source this detector could probably be calibrated to yield mW/cm² readings.... Of course you can also do the "banana test" ... but it is much more time consuming and less accurate ;-)The signal of the detector is analog and you can also connect it to a micro controller with analog input such as an arduino or a computer (e.g. a raspberry pi).(The pictures are small, because they were taken remotely with a raspberry pi camera)5 stars!Disclaimer: Stay safe if you should repeat these experiments! remote control the light and wear appropriate PPE!

Nice UV sensor, using a 3.7v battery, I attached a small digital voltmeter and got an output of a few mv indoors and 1.5v under regular sun, not a precise scientific way to measure but gives a good idea of the sun UV index (I multiply the voltage by 4 to get the UV index)

This uv sensor works fine. It also works for detecting blue and uv led lights. You can hold it up to different light sources to see if it emits any UV. I tested the sensitivity by pointing a uv flashlight at the sensor and turning the dial (potentiometer). It seems to make a difference if turned all the way clockwise (carefully). The sensor outputs a tiny voltage so it needs pretty bright light source to work. To convert the analog output to a real world UV Index value look up the current UV Index for your zip code on a weather site, then take some measurements outside with the sensor and compare them to the published values. This is close enough to for detecting low, medium, and high uv intensity..

I used this to test several UV lamps I bought for killing COVID-19 viruses. It turned out that several lamps marketed as UVC lamps were just common black lights and didn't emit UVC at all. In order to measure UVC you hook this up to a 5 V DC power supply and a digital meter. You shine the UV light directly on the sensor. Then you put a pane of glass over the sensor and measure again. If your light source is UVC, there will be a sharp voltage drop when the light is measured through the glass. That is because glass blocks UVC light.

Works OK, but no documentation so I do not know if the output is linear, for example, or how to convert readings to actual UV levels. The output is low. When powered by 5V, the maximum readings I got in sunlight were about 1/2 V. The supposed variable amplifier does not seem to work. Turning the potentiometer seems to have no effect on readings.