Microswiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10 / CR10 / CR10S / Ender 2 / Ender 3 Ender 5 Printers .4mm

Here I will attempt to give my Experiences an Impressions of the MicroSwiss Hot End!.First I was a bit surprised its called Micro Swiss but its made here in the U.S.?????But We Live In The times We Live In Right!.First off I must say it is a Very Good Unit for as a young fella i had toolshop training and i have to sayin quality the Unit i received was first rate .Now I received My Order quickly so as usual both Amazon and the Seller has their act together and i can only say 'Good Going' guys on the shipping, You did well!...TO INSTALL:I wont go into 'Great Detail' here as their are YouTube videos that explain the detail better then i can.Put simply if you have simple tools most Americans have, And you are capable say of fixing a Kitchen Faucet then you should be able to assemble and mount a MicroSwiss Hot End to a Ender Printer ,.'Now This Is A Balancing Act as Its Important to understand the Pluses and Minuses!'...See My problem was My Bodwin tube melted and started causing my hot end to leak!!!!!.Granted I couldn't see re-placing this with a factory unit, So i bought a MicroSwiss and a newHigh Temp tube!.....So if you are buying this to replace a Bad or Worn or a Defective Hot End then this is a deal for you!...But if you ARE buying this just to increase temps so you can process NYLON or Hi Temp materialsthen 'This Part' alone cannot help you!.In fact it was a 'Bad Disappointment' to find despite adds to the contrary!...Yes and truly Micro Swiss is a top grade part and is an improvement over the factory Hot End!.And i definitely like the way my parts are coming out now, But in truth it only adds about 5 degrees to my operating temperatures!.This Part Does NOT Automatically of itself INSURE that 'Your Machine' will run NYLON!.In Truth Its Kinda A Half and Half Thing!.Most Folks are buying this or something 'like it' for 'Ender Printers' to increase Melt temperatures!.But due to Computer Settings and P.I.D. Enders are 'Locked Down' to 260C O.K.Plus the Heat Block on the Micro Swiss is plain Aluminum and not the Stainless Steel I was hoping for.As that alone "drastically" limits Operating Temperature.Please remember THIS is not a fault, It is simply the way that part is designed to run/operate!.Very Fortunately I Dont have to run Nylon in my normal work!.Yes if i changed the 'Junk Aluminum' block with a Copper Block which Amazon carries that could possibly kick me up towards 270C which would make it more realistic to run some of the newer Nylons that Amazon is currently listing and those are Quality Goods!.Now with a 'Stock Hot End' I ran 'Taulmans 230' which is a low temp NYLON and it turns out some fine parts that has to be said, But i must also point out its not Rock Hard but its good for use where toughness is needed but some flexibility is allowed,.To Close let me state that the MiscroSwiss is good and a fine choice to replace worn and bad parts as it certainly does a fine job in the normal temp range the Machines. were originally designed for!.But clearly DONT buy an ENDER if you intend to run NYLON as that machine simply isnt set up for it!.Yes some people try altering PID or tampering with the computer code and have wound up damaging their machines.Buy a Prusa or a different make which is more Modern and Up to Spec!.But for my uses MicroSwiss makes a fine part, it installed easy, Runs fine and does its Job!.Recommended!IndianaED

Having been 3D printing for many years I've seen and tried lots of cheap fixes to some really over the top stuff. But this hot end assembly is really worth the money. I do think it is a bit overpriced for what you get, but beggars can't be choosers as they say.Pros:*Excellent print quality*smooth with no jamming*easy to assemble (if the heat element doesn't fit, loosen the screws! This is something people overlook and think it will just slide in)*safer than regular hotend, Boden tube is significantly higher up and will never get hot even at close to 300°c*durable, and high qualityCons:* a bit on the expensive side, as far as hot ends go.*heat block isn't secured with screws underneath, so when tightening, make sure to use something to hold the block safely, then tighten. Otherwise you will have a twisted print head.Overall this is a really high quality product, allows for higher printing temperatures, and works really well.I'm sure the people that buy this and say it doesn't work or fit probably are either new to 3D printing, or doing know how to work with hardware. Either way give it a try, you can always return it if it doesn't work out. Though I highly doubt you would need to.

GOBSMACKED! I have this on my completely modded and upgraded CR-10S. I don't even know how to start this review. I am more than happy with the improvement the Micro Swiss made for my printing style. Let's start with the installation - there are many you tube videos showing an installation method using the existing heater block. DONT USE THE OLDHEATER BLOCK - IT SUCKS. It comes with an upgraded and improved heater block that grasps the heating element better with more contact, and the thermal sensor rests several mm further inside the block now giving much more accurate readings. I was able to heat the block up to 200c in around 20-25 seconds. Simply letting more of the heating element come into contact with the block itself is much more efficient for heat transfer.Extrusion - this is when I got a big smile. When it extrudes and stops - the filament almost falls off rather than make a long thinning string and it droops downwards. A perfect example of how well the cooling end is working in tandem with the titanium heat-choke. Less heat sneeking up into the cooling block means less excess filament sneaking down and making strings. Its so simple and works so well. I was pushing filament through it and when I stopped, not a moment too late, it stopped extruding unlike the stock hot end that would have globs come out as it heated up. Yeah youll get a TINY amount but nowhere near what the stock hot end did.I designed a torture test that is a dense ring on the first layer (mainly to assess bed plate adhesion and level), Im using this on an ANYCUBI UltraBase (which really sucks but is super level), and long story short - the extruder was consistent under torture loads around 200mm/s! LOL I would never print at this speed but it was aboe to melt and keep melting flawlessly. Won me OVER!The quality and craftsmanship of the parts is AAA quality. The heat break is solid machined and polished titanium. The metal threading was medical or aircraft grade at first glance.Enough said - go buy one!

As described

Nachdem es bei meinem Ender 3 V2 zu vermehrten Problemen mit einem verstopften Hotend kam, habe ich mir das Micro Swiss Hotend als Ersatz besorgt.Nach einigem frustrierendem Feintuning spricht das gute Ergebnis für sich.Der große Unterschied: Beim Standard-Hotend, das Creality verbaut, läuft der PTFE-Schlauch bis herunter zur Heat Break. Dort wird er enorm heiß, gerade wenn man ABS mit hohen Temperaturen druckt. PTFE kann bei den für ABS notwendigen Temperaturen degenerieren, was die Funktion mindert und zudem im Extremfall giftige Stoffe ausdünsten lassen kann. Beim Micro Swiss sitzt der PTFE-Schlauch oben auf dem Kühlerblock, welcher eine Bohrung hat, die allein dick genug ist, um Filament zu führen.Zudem hält die Fixierung für den PTFE-Schlauch deutlich besser, als beim Creality-Original. Damit wird der Hauptgrund für Verstopfungen gegenüber dem Original-Hotend, nämlich der Pfropfen, der sich vor der Heat Break bildet, wenn ein verschmorter PTFE-Schlauch sich auch noch leicht aus der Fixierung löst und hochdrückt und somit Filament oberhalb der Heatbreak anschmilzt, eliminiert. Auch leichte Verformungen innerhalb des Weges durch den Kühlkörper, sogenanntes Heat Creep, gehört der Vergangenheit an.Dies betrifft übrigens sowohl Bowden-Systeme wie auch die meisten Direct Drive Systeme, die immer noch einen kurzen PTFE-Schlauch, wenn auch deutlich kürzer und nur schnurgerade verlaufend, zwischen Antrieb und Hotend haben.Der Umbau ist denkbar einfach. Ein Tip, den ich noch von einem 3D-Druck Youtuber mitgenommen habe: Wärmeleitpaste. Allerdings nicht (auf gar keinen Fall!) zwischen Heat Break und Heat Block, sehr wohl aber zwischen Heat Break und Kühlkörper. Die kann man beim Zusammenbau noch mit dazu nehmen.Danach fängt dann das Feintuning an. Bett runterdrehen, Gerät auf Home-Position fahren und neu leveln (bei manuell) bzw. Z-Offset hochdrehen und danach neu anpassen (bei BL-Touch/CR-Touch), drucken und ein dummes Gesicht machen. Ihr müsst eure Einstellungen noch etwas anpassen. Bei mir passte 200°C für PLA immer perfekt. Und nun? Unterextrusion, Stringing, Artefakte ohne Ende. Micro Swiss empfiehlt, die Temperatur um 5-10°C hochzudrehen, bei mir waren es sogar 15°C, auf insgesamt 215°C. Hier druckt mein PLA-Filament in diesem Hotend perfekt, ohne Artefakte. Das Druckbild, inkl. der mitgelieferten Nozzle, ist noch mal etwas sauberer, als mit dem Original Creality Hotend und Nozzle.Die Verarbeitung ist perfekt, alles ist sehr passgenau und das Ergebnis ist am Ende wirklich gut.Und wenn es nicht funktioniert, nicht gleich das Hotend verfluchen, sondern mal Temperatur und Flow neu einstellen. Es ist halt etwas anders.

Llevo ya bastantes meses con este hotend en mi Ender 5 PRO. Me encantan porque no he tenido ni un atasco, parece increible pero es así. He imprimido PLA, PETG y FLEX sin ningún tipo de problema, eso si la impresora está modificada para imprimir con extrusión directa.Puedo compararlo con el V6 porque tengo una Prusa MK3S. La boquilla se cambia mucho más fácil que en un V6 que lo tienes que desmontar solo para cambiar una boquilla.Una de las cosas que más me gustan es que al tener la pieza que separa el disipador del bloque calentador de titanio no deja pasar nada la calor por lo que impide que tengas atascos. La verdad, es una pasada, totalmente recomendado.

Non volevo assolutamente spendere così tanto per una hot endHo acquistato tre cloni low costNonostante varie modifiche, prove di settaggi infiniti e un’enorme perdita di tempo, questi cloni non hanno mai funzionatoIl problema era l’intasamento e la continua variazione della portata (flow) anche cambiando vari ugelliQuesto della swiss è perfettoMigliorata la stampa, flow costanteRiesco a stampare pet senza fondere il teflonMontato su CR-10S4 con modifica ad estrusore direttoConsigliato

Super produit maintenant je peux imprimer à l'aise l'abs. Cr10 d'origine monte à 260 c'est parfait. Avant le ptfe cramais et ca bloquait le filament.je recommande.