EDELRID Ohm Assisted-Braking Resistor - Oasis

This thing is amazing!This has allowed my 12yr old daughter to safely catch big lead falls.. she weighs about 95lbs and I weigh 185lbs (2x her weight and 4x her age!). It is just a really excellent piece of gear that more teams should be using for safe belaying! My only gripe would be that it’s a little heavy- but that is really just a wish list item for a next generation of this piece, I’d never detract a star for that.. it just works so well, and since you leave it on the first bolt, it’s not really an issue while climbing (only in your pack)..love love love!

This allows me, a climber of 220lbs to climb with my partner, 120lbs. It keeps us both safe by reducing me pulling her into the wall, and reduces the chance of me decking from a fall. It can be annoying to pull slack through sometimes, but well worth it for the added protection.

We've been lead climbing for 4 years now and I'm about 35-40 pounds lighter than my climbing partner. If he fell at the first anchor there was the fear of decking and we've had a few painful mid-air collisions. Without the Ohm, I would be launched through the air and lowering him at the end of a climb meant my feet were often barely touching the ground. It was uncomfortable and nerve-wracking.Now that we have the Ohm, I'm never belaying a heavier lead climber without it. It arrived yesterday so we practiced intentional falls at the gym to get the feel for it. Even with a longer fall, I was barely lifted off the ground and lowering my partner at the end of the climb was comfortable and easy to control. I was able to lower him without my feet leaving the ground- it felt more like lowering off a top rope than a lead climb.Pros: No extra tension on the rope, feeding rope and taking rope felt exactly as it always does. The climber doesn't feel the device at all, it doesn't add extra heaviness when pulling rope. We both tried it and can attest that the climber doesn't even notice it's there. It's easy to place, but we recommend practicing a bit to ensure it's placed properly (a little practice really helps). It's really confidence inspiring for both of us- I feel more confident knowing I won't fly through the air and he feels more confident knowing it's safer for both of us when he falls.Things to consider: Practice with it. When my partner falls at the first anchor I am accustomed to pulling in the rope really firmly and quickly (taking in as much rope as possible); but with the Ohm this was a little too much tension for the climber.We haven't had the opportunity to try it outdoors yet but it seems like it would be very much the same experience.

Packaging of item was damaged (not the outer envelope) and it appeared to be used and haphazardly put back together and taped. It was rattling around in a broken box and I returned it, and ordered another. If it had been marketed as a used item, I might understand the packaging, but it charged for a new item and it obviously wasn't.

What can I say? It’s an Ohm. It works. I’m a big-boy and sometimes I lead climb with folks I swear don’t understand physics until after they belay first without, and then with. this thing. I had been borrowing and borrowing from gyms for the last couple years and finally decided to pull the trigger on this purchase. Glad I did!

I bought this after a fall that left me 6 feet up in the air and my partner’s feet on the ground. Today I held 3 high fall factor falls with the same partner and didn’t even get a rough jerk. Worth the cost.

I went through the fate of a few other reviewers and got a box that was clearly opened before, with a product that was clearly used before. I have no problem buying used climbing gear, as long as it's marketed and priced as such. At this point I'll probably just return this and buy the ohm 2nd generation (similar price).

It's fairly heavy, which is both good and bad. I wouldn't take it outdoors very much. Definitely solves the safety problem of having a lighter belayer than climber, which is very appreciated. Makes me as a climber feel a lot better about the lower clips and bigger falls, but has some fallbacks that you need to watch out for.If you high clip as a climber, and then climb up to the clip, the slack reintroduced into the system can gather up around the Ohm, which can lead to there being an extra foot or two of slack that your belayer may not realize is there unless they look at the Ohm. My belayer has also complained that it can make lowering harder to control at times when using an assisted braking device. Both of those are certainly worth it for what the Ohm gives, in my mind. The first problem is easily solved once your belayer learns to watch out for it when high clipping, and then second problem seems to just take some adjusting.