Low Cost, Low Volume Resist, Electrically Conductive Silver Epoxy Adhesive, AA-Duct 906, 2.5gm kit

The solder had broken lose on the rear window defroster of my Jeep Wrangler. The jeep dealer wanted $235 to repair it. I checked with my regular mechanic and he was afraid he would damage the window trying to resolder it. Since I wouldn't pay the jeep dealer the unreasonable price I started checking around for other alternatives and found this silver conductive glue and decided to give it a try. Long story short it worked great. BE SURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS THAT COMES WITH THE GLUE!!!! After preparing the glue I applied a small amount on a small piece of cardboard to let it cure some (let it get a little tacky). In the case of my Wrangler there is a small button that can detach from the wire so that made it much easier to glue and hold with the tacky glue. I used a toothpick to apply the glue which prevented any major mess. I didn't have to use any tape as the glue held fine after I pressed it in place with the toothpick for a couple of minutes. If tape is needed to hold in place I would recommend blue tape. Be sure you wait the full 24 hours to let the glue completely cure. I highly recommended this product.

I bought this (AA-DUCT 906) to repair a broken (cracked) carbon trace in a volume control (20 Kohm potentiometer). It's a single use product, even at 2.5g it was more product than I needed. The mixing instructions were straight-forward and the 40X-edge-of-the-desk mixing technique was easy. Material was viscous enough to easily apply to a small area and not have it "contaminate" nearby items, really a no mess application. So I had a small crack in the carbon trace in the POT. I used a toothpick to apply a smooth layer of the product across this crack bridging it to the metal tab (which eventually will get re-soldered on to PCB). I left this for 24hrs in a 68F room (suggested time is 24hr @65F for proper cure). In addition to the repair I had a large test sample left over (plan was to use this sample to test the cured product for conductivity in addition to the POT). So end result is I have a solid bond on my POT but it's high resistance...in the Meg Ohm region. Not the solution planned. Was hoping for a low resistance (<10ohm) connection. The test sample seems to be almost insulated on the outside. Only when I roughed up the sample did I get a high MegOhm value reading on my DMM. I used needle tip probes to jab the test sample. So not sure where to go from here, but this product was not the correct solution.

Product arrived as shown in picture, a small see-through, rectangular pouch with two compartments. One side was a clear liquid, the other a silver powder. They were separated by a sealed barrier. I prepped the work area with my tools: fine grit sandpaper, acetone for glass prep, paramedic scissors, a small piece of paper to mix it on and a heat gun. I sanded the copper traces and cleaned the area with acetone. Then I squeezed the pouch, piercing the internal barrier. I kneaded the liquid into the powder with my fingers. I worked the mixture until it was a slow moving paste. The previous tab had been ripped off by a bad tinting job, so there was copper missing from the rear glass. To solve this, I purchased a thin copper shim from the internet. The shim was twice the surface area of the missing glass copper. So, prior to the defroster repair, I soldered a small wire(the same diameter as the power supply wire)to the shim. I then applied the paste to the bottom of the copper shim in a heavy bead. I pushed the tab against the window and held it up with a small wooden dowel. With the other hand, I focused hot air with a heat gun directly on the copper shim. I held it there for approx. 5 to 7 minutes. I removed the heat, then continued to hold the copper shim against the glass. I placed some duct tape over the shim and wire and left it overnight. I came out the next day and removed the duct tape. The epoxy had hardened to the consistency of concrete. I placed the wire tab into the connection of the power wire and turned on the defroster. Success!!!

Product worked well. Had a older wrapped wire reostat that the wire broke and as such broke the circuit. Used material as directed to paint over the top of the wire and the substrate the wire was wrapped on. Used home made kitchen clay (2 parts baking soda + 1 part corn starch, add water and heat until thickened) formed a dike around the broken area, used broken tooth pick to fill the dike and coat the area of concern. The unmixed base material was not conductive. Mixed material did not become conductive until it started hardening. Sped up hardening by preheating item in 150 F oven and returning after treatment. Cured in about an hour and used razor blade to remove excess epoxy material from unwanted areas. Issue was not enough technical information was available. Had to figure it out myself through experimental design, so took much longer.

Did not think it would be enough to do anything with but its stronger than anything at the store with 1/3 the application, very easy to mix, let it cure for 24 hours with no issues great quality epoxy.

Reattached the (originally) soldered on connector to rear window defogger glass. Not used to trying to mix epoxy within a sealed package, but it seemed to work ok, just too early to tell after 1 week. The amount provided seems insufficient to complete even the smallest projects.