Lutron Ariadni/Toggler LED+ Dimmer Switch, Toggle Dimmer, Single Pole/3-way

I had recently replaced an old 2-U fluorescent with a Lithonia CPANL 2x2 and found it to be a bit too bright. While this dimmer isn't listed as compatible by either Lutron or Lithonia, other LED+ family dimmers are listed. Pros: - The "scan the QR to get install instructions" is the best I've seen. There is a simple wizard to navigate based on whether its 1-gang or multi-gang and single pole or 3-way. Its short, to the point, and large enough to easily see/understand on a small phone screen. Its better than Ikea assembly pictograms as it has actual .. instructions. - Wide dim range with separate toggle, works with existing/regular switchplates. - Installed in literally 10 minutes in a 3-way single gang. - Dims the CPANL down to almost nothing and can be trimmed all the way down and light still turns on (a couple seconds delay) with no flicker. - No buzzing noises from dimmer or light. Cons: - 150W LED limit is a bit low. However it should work for most retrofit uses because 150W LED replaces 1000-1500W of incandescent. Larger loads in new construction should probably use 0-10V dimming.

I trust and have used this brand for a very long time. As expected works very well with the LED lighting.

Works great, easy to install. I really enjoy this style dimmer where it appears like a regular light switch. The dimmer works great without any flicker. Easy to control the brightness by moving the slider. Just easily replaces your existing switch. Follow the video instructions if you need to ensure you are wiring it correctly. Seems like it is built to last and has a warranty. Overall seems like a great value.

When purchasing electrical items for your home you don't want to risk buying cheap, off brand junk for reasons that should be evident. These dimmers are from a known manufacturer of quality electric products. They are easy for DIY installation if you follow the directions. Most importantly, ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN POWER IS OFF ON THE CIRCUIT YOUR WORKING ON!! It's simply enough to turn off the correct breaker. My only very minor complaint is that the dimmer slide is small for my huge hands but it works well. The price is good and shipping is quick.

We purchased this during a home office renovation, to dim the library lights at our bookcase. It was easy to install and built well for the value you purchased it. It does dim very well, and you can’t even turn up the brightness, depending on what part of the switch you leave it on. The appearance is a pretty standard light switch. We got the light color cause that’s all that they had. I would love it to be in goal to match our plating. But I’m happy that it’s durable and works.

I have been using these in all my houses for years they are great. Especially were the outlet is covered by furniture so the outlet one won't work. I have light switches at the top of my stairs and this illuminates the top stairs. This is great for safety.

The LED light on my porch was way too bright most of the time. This switch solved that problem. It was easy to install, fit perfectly in my existing light switch panel, and I really appreciate the adjustment knob, which lets me eliminate any flicker at the lowest settings. If you are having a problem with the on and off settings being reversed? You probably wired something to the wrong terminal. The top terminal on the right side is intended to be used only if you are setting up a 3-way switch (as in one of those setups where you can control the light from two different switches.) This will happen with any 3-way light switch if you don't wire it correctly. If you aren't sure what you are doing, please hire a professional electrician to deal with this stuff. In this case, it's an annoyance you can easily fix. But in more serious cases (such as connecting the ground wire to the wrong terminal), it can be extremely dangerous. The manufacturer provides a short video showing how to wire it correctly.

This switch works great as long as all the connections are in sync and grounding is secured. Since there is no real instruction in the box or online in general on how to do this let me give you some tips: Before installation, make sure you know what you're doing and do not use guesswork here. You can break the thing and or electrocute yourself. Yes, even after you cut the power (DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS without first cutting the power!!!!). TAKE A PHOTO of the switch you are replacing, including all connections. Make a note of the colors of the wire coating or sheaths. The relevant ones are typically a combination of black, red, and/or white. This switch only includes a green grounding wire and no other wires. Double check if your specific electric system requires the use of the grounding wire. TRUST ME. If it does not, secure the end of this wire with the crimping cap (included) to prevent contact with any other wiring. If it does, refer to whoever might know or an electrician. Again, it is too risky to guess. My outlet provided only two relevant wires; one black and one white. Yours may have one or two more so I can only speak to my setup. But it will work with other configurations. AFTER cutting the power I removed the old switch and connected the black ("hot") wire to the copper screw on one side and the white (passive) one to the brass screw on the OPPOSITE side. Meaning, when the thing is upright and facing you, these two cables should NOT be connected to the same side. Assuming your setup is like mine find out which is the "hot" wire and which one is the passive one. I believe this determines the orientation of the dimmer slider. In any case, connect the wires by securing them into place and tightening the respective screws on the unit so that the copper wire ends are wrapped around and are making and keeping contact. Secure the switch unit into the wall box, replace the faceplate, turn the breaker back on and test. The switch and dimmer should be synced; if not, you did it wrong. Cut the power and try again. If they are synced but the switch is upside down (and this bothers you), just flip the unit; it is symmetrical and should still screw into the wall and work as normal. If anything is flickering, STOP. This could be due to incompatible bulbs, but the unit itself may be damaged or wired wrong. Test with other bulbs and if the issue persists contact an expert. YOUR SETUP / electrical box may not be standard or it may be more modern than my example. PLEASE CHECK before proceeding or consult an electrician. Online instructions are inconsistent and often outdated, pieced together by AI, or for a different product, so don't rely on these. I speak from experience. If everything is good to go (slider and toggle are synced and facing the right direction, and the lights aren't flickering or dimming inconsistently), permanently secure the switch unit with the existing screws or the ones provided and reinstall the faceplate, and enjoy your new dimmer! Additional: These are appropriate for halogen or LEDs but the bulbs MUST be compatible. It will usually say it on the package or the bulb itself if it's not for use with dimmers. I used Sylvania clear bulbs 115w that are marked as working with dimmers. I don't recommend off brands; spend the money on reputable brands that will work as they should and not compromise your safety. IMPORTANT: If you hear a pop and smell burning, you're done, the unit is fried. Don't turn the main power back on and don't try to troubleshoot it. Instead, disconnect and remove the damaged unit, replace the face plate, and procure a replacement unit. Bonus tip: the little blue switch INCREASES the range of dimming if facing the negative side and DECREASES it if turned towards the positive (+) side. Meaning: A) Turned toward negative (-), the dimmer slider will be all the way bright at one end and the lights will turn off at the other B) Oriented towards the positive side (+), the range will be less extreme and the lights will be bright on one end and dim but still lit at the other. Now you know and I just saved you ten minutes of adjusting. You're welcome :) The lack of clear instruction is both annoying and a safety hazard so you want to take as much care as possible. I hope this helps :)

En tant qu'électricien, j'ai eu l'occasion d'installer et de tester plusieurs variateurs d'intensité, et le Lutron AYCL-153P-WH Ariadni est un excellent choix pour ceux qui recherchent à contrôler des ampoules LED, CFL, incandescentes ou halogènes. Ce modèle se distingue par sa polyvalence, pouvant fonctionner en mode unipolaire ou 3 voies, avec une capacité allant jusqu'à 150W pour les ampoules LED/CFL et 600W pour les incandescentes. Son installation est simple, même pour les novices, grâce à son design intuitif et son compatibilité avec les systèmes de câblage standards. J'ai particulièrement apprécié la technologie HED intégrée, qui assure une compatibilité optimale avec la plupart des ampoules à haute efficacité, ce qui réduit les risques de scintillement, un problème courant avec certains modèles LED. Le variateur permet un contrôle fluide de l'intensité lumineuse via une glissière linéaire, et l'interrupteur basculant offre un accès rapide à l'allumage et l'extinction. Cependant, comme avec de nombreux variateurs, l'efficacité peut varier en fonction de la marque et du type d'ampoule LED utilisé. Il est donc conseillé de tester différentes ampoules pour obtenir les meilleurs résultats. En résumé, pour les professionnels ou les particuliers cherchant un variateur fiable et simple à installer, le Lutron AYCL-153P-WH est un excellent choix qui allie robustesse et précision dans le contrôle de l'éclairage.

Works great on group of LED pot lights. I have one controlling 7 lights and another controlling 9 Can also be used as a dimming 3-way switch.

Good product easy to install

Works great and fits

Excellent quality