CRCGDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner

Good stuff 👍 Used on a Hyundai Veloster 1.6T, 70k miles. I feel the top end pull a lot harder, car feels faster. Great product.Warning: the fluid will spray out of your BOV if you have a VTA setup. I had my BOV pointed down at the splash shield. It ended up pissing the splash shield.

Tried this in a 1.6 Hyundai Gamma II GDI engine that they put in the Kia Soul's. (Yes, Hyundai makes a lot of Kia's parts, including that engine). The proper way to clean intake valves on a GDI (direct injection) engine is to REMOVE the intake manifold and walnut-blast the back side of the intake valves. BIG JOB, and not always necessary. I inspected the intake valves with a borescope BEFORE and AFTER I used this product. It cleaned the intake valves very well! I've long used CRC products, and this will be another one I recommend every oil change, because, why NOT! Keep those valves as clean as you can, it will improve gas mileage and prolong the life of your engine. It will prevent carbon build up. NOTE: If your intake valves are too dirty, you will need to remove the intake manifold and clean the proper way. But this product works well, especially if you have a new car and begin using it right away at least every 10,000 miles, or every 2-3 oil changes. On the Kia Soul, I removed the brake booster vacuum line and sprayed the CRC direct injection intake valve cleaner into the system that way. SECOND NOTE: DO NOT SPRAY CRC INTAKE VALVE CLEANER IN THE AIR CLEANER/FILTER BOX, IT WILL DESTROY YOUR MAF (MASS AIR FLOW) SENSOR.

I use this product every 10,000 miles. After applying it, the engine runs much smoother. I can only assume this is the direct result of clean valves.The CDC Valve and Turbo Cleaner is made from the same detergents found in gasoline. In a low pressure fuel injected car, gasoline goes over the valves. High quality gasoline includes detergents to keep the engine clean. Direct Injected cars / trucks put the fuel directly into the cylinder. This means the valves are not cleaned by the detergents in the gasoline. CDC Valve and Turbo Cleaner (V&TC) solves the problem.The first time I applied the product (V&TC), I saw gunk on the rear of my car. This presumably came from the valves. The next time I applied the product, I did not notice the gunk on my car. To me, this is an indication V&TC is working.The first two times, I disassembled the intake to spray V&TC into the intake. The third time, I found a vacuum line (brake booster) and applied the product to the vacuum line. Applying though the vacuum line is the easiest way to spray the product into the upper engine. However, this means only the exhaust side of the turbo is cleaned.I have not removed the intake manifold and used a borescope to inspect the valves. That's a bit more than I want to do. I judge the product on the way my car runs. Based on this, CRC Valve and Turbo Cleaner does its job.

My 2017 Honda Accord was chugging badly whenever I tried to pass or went past half way on the throttle. It only had 8k miles on it so I tried everything else first -new air filter, gas treatment - to no avail. I bought can of this and sprayed it thru the intake just past the MAF sensor. Worked good - no more chugging whenever I stepped on the throttle. 6 months later it started doing the same thing and gradually got worse. At 8 months it was horrible - I had to make sure I had plenty of room to pass since it would chug so bad whenever I floored it. This time whenever I ran a can thru it and started the 10 minute highway drive it scared me. As soon as I got on the road and stepped on the accelerator the car choked down and nearly stalled, then it sputtered and a HUGE cloud of smoke exited the rear of the car. The car then picked up and accelerated normally, but my check engine, low tire, and power steering warning lights lit up. The car ran fine however so I continued with my 10 minute drive and by the time I got home it was running like a top - flooring it would immediately push me back in my seat like it should. Got home and disconnected the negative side of the battery for a few seconds and all warning lights disappeared. It has been a week now and it is still running like new. I figured that there was a large amount of carbon that broke loose and hit the combustion chamber causing the huge smoke cloud which messed with the sensors in the catalytic converter and set off the codes. I'm going to get a oil catch can and start using this every 3000 miles or 6 months so I wont have such a build up again. Much cheaper than the $150 my local Honda dealer wanted to clean it out.