PETZLNEOX Belay Device with cam-Assisted Blocking

For those who want an ultra-smooth belay device with the reliability of a Grigri, this is it. It pays out rope effortlessly yet reliably kicks in its belay assist when the leader falls.I really like that belayers can belay as with an ATC - keeping a hand on the brake line.This has become my favorite device for belaying lead climbers.

This is a GREAT device for lead belaying. I used to feel comfortable belaying 5.8, 5.9, even upper 5.10s with the Grigri. But now I feel confident belaying 5.11 and 5.12! I can't wait for Petzl to come out with a new version so I can belay 5.13 and maybe even 5.14!!!Way to go Petzl, you rock! (see what I did there?)

Because of how smooth this device feeds, you don't need to hold the device open when paying out slack. This makes it ideal for people who belay left handed or prefer the tube device style of belaying. If using it in the recommended way this device has a very different feel then a gri-gri so it will definitely depend on your preferred belay method.

It's like a GriGri and an ATC had a baby! This thing pays out slack like BUTTER. You belay just like an ATC (no thumb on cam) and then catch falls and lower just like you would with the GriGri. Every single person who has tried mine at the gym has audibly gone, "Wow, this is amazing!" when they try it. Don't wait.... pick one up now!

So comparing this against a classic gri gri its pretty similar. If your doing top rope its pretty much exactly the same. If your doing lead paying out slack is a bit easier (I think its a lot easier but buddies say its a smaller improvement). Its still a good lead device.This device just feels like a gri gri plus a little bit, and the gri gri is an amazing device but this device is not worth the extra $50 for slightly easier lead belaying.

The Neox is NOT a miracle. In top rope belaying, there is no real difference from a Grigri. Belaying a leader, the rope payout is very smooth IF you are paying out slowly. The problem is that if the leader is high-clipping and pulls the rope quickly, the Neox will lock up. In that situation I find myself trying to slowly send out the rope even though the climber wants it faster. With a Grigri, putting your right thumb on the cam lever prevents any lockup, but on a Neox, a thumb on the cam lever will only partially prevent lock up (you get about 50% locked). I’ve been using a Neox for several weeks and have been trying all sorts of hand positions to pay out rope, but I’m still wondering if I wasted my money. I strongly suggest that you borrow one to try it out before shelling out this much money for something you might not like.

Ich klettere jetzt seit über 20 Jahren. Bisher habe ich meist mit dem Petzl GRIGRI gesichert (und war damit sehr zufrieden).Der Neox funktioniert ganz ähnlich mit dem tollen Unterschied, dass das Seil ausgeben sehr einfach geht. Ich bin begeistert. Ein Tipp für Leute die Vorstieg sichern.

Still getting used to it. So far I’m well happy.

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