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If it wasn't for the fact I modified the tank to move the fuel filler to the center from the side,I would have just bought another tank. Glad I didn't, because this stuff worked perfect. Tank wasn't bad from the start, just a few spots of existing surface rust, and of coarse the flash rust from welding parts of the tank.1) Tank was already clean from prepping it to weld and leak testing with water and pressure.2) Used Evapo-Rust. Only used a quart and kept rotating it(If there was severe rusting I would have filled the entire tank per manufacturers directions(For my application, I kept rotating it to the problem areas every 10-15 minutes for 4 hours. sloshing it around for every position change)3) Flushed and rinsed tank with 2 complete fill-ups of water(Leaving the water to pour out for a minute or 2 on each fill up before dumping4) Filled up about 3/4 of the way with a 75/25 solution of Degreaser/water and swished that around for about 20 minutes5) Flushed and rinsed tank with 2 complete fill-ups of water(Leaving the water to pour out for a minute or 2 on each fill up before dumping6) Added about a pint of acetone and swished it around and dumped out.(I did this twice per Red Kote) and used an airgun for about 5 minutes and tank was completely dry7) Poured in Red Kote and spread by slowly turning tank until everything was covered. I did this until I felt I was able to coat everything twice. I wojld say it took me about 30mins on this step.8) Drained excess and for the next 2 hours stood the tank in various positions at about 10-15 intervals(Keeping in mind to turn the tank so any excess would flow along the side instead of dripping from one surface to the next.9) Removed covers I made for the petcock and fuel level sender10) On the second day, could no longer smell the solvent and coating looks good and cured.11) I wont be putting fuel in it for another couple weeks as I still need to finish the tank.Pros:Red dye makes seeing it very easy to get full coverage, especially when using a mirrorFlow well(I was indoors at about 70degF)I really like that when its cured, you no longer smell the solvent, making it easy to determine if its curedCons:Each step is messy and care needs to be taken. Water and painters tape is your best friend here!Overall I am extremely satisfied with the results. I was able to achieve 100% coverage. If I ever have to do this again, it will most certainly be Red Kote!1st picture:Dark areas are where there was previous surface rustLittle specs are user error(Them dropped when I cleaned the threads on the fuel fill after pouring it out)2nd PictureFrom the fuel sender hole. I drilled through when taking the badge holders off and had to weld the hole shut. It covered that quite well!

Works good. Will use again

Been good so far. It was easy to use and the only issue I had was how quickly it tacks up because my motorcycle tank drain is small. I kept having to ream out the drain hole. Worked well and even helped secure some previous sealer that was used on the tank that did lbt come off all the way during cleaning.

I recently purchased a NATO 20 litre gas can and after paying over 70 bucks for it, found out that it had not been treated prior to being shipped to me! For such a high price, you gotta protect your goods! So I purchased this can of Red Kote (thank you forums for pointing me to this product) and my 20 litre can is protected now! For others doing the same thing, I bought a new NATO can and it did not have rust. If yours has rust on the inside, look on forums on how to scrape away the rust on the inside. I've heard of people using chain and a solvent and shaking them in the can to loosen the rust up. But there are many ways. If rust on the outside, take 65-120 grit sandpaper and sand away followed with some automotive paint or the cheap spray-can way. Automotive if you don't want the paint to bleed if you spill gas on it and spray-can paint if you don't care and want to just seal your steel from the elements.There is actually enough Red Kote for a 20 litre gas/diesel can. I think after dumping the whole thing into the empty and dry gas can, sloshing it about and pouring excess back into the quart container, I had only used up about 1/4 of the can as a liner. But watch out because this stuff will stick to cement and concrete patios/floors! This stuff is pretty toxic so make sure you do not risk inhaling large quantities of it while working. Wear gloves. And have a plan before opening this can. It peels off easily from plastics and some materials, but it really sticks to abrasive surfaces. Also, do not leave the can open when you are emptying or refilling the contents out/in. Exposure to air will cause it to harden. On the can it says using acetone to help speed the curing process, but I decided to forgo that and let it aerate naturally (24 hours). On the label it recommends using acetone to thin out the Red Kote. If you left your quart with the lid off and it harden or congealed, the acetone will return it to its consistency when you first opened the can. Now following this logic, I wasn't sure how that also speed cures the Red Kote when lining gas cans, so I didn't do that and I took the long approach.Also, when I dumped the quart into my gas can and slowly rotated it and sloshed it about, I had the lid sealed so that it would not spill out. However, when I opened the lid, I nearly lost my thumb. I'm not sure what Red Kote is made of, but the gently sloshing and rotating of the liquid in my gas can had aggravated it somehow and created a lot of pressure in the can. So when I opened it, the lid flew back extremely fast. I suggest sealing the lid when holding the gas can upside down and opening it every 20 seconds. You want the Red Kote to line every part of the interior of the gas can to prevent internal rusting. Lastly, do not let water enter the can during the curing process or it will stop it completely according to the can. Great product. You need only one quart for a 20 litre gas tank!

Worked excellent on my Hoda CB500!! If you have any doubts that this is something you can’t do, just do it! It was a very simple process and came out amazing! After plugging up the tank vents and petcock area, I removed the rust in the tank with evaporust then cleaned out the tank with water a few times, then followed up with acetone as the label said was safe to use directly after pouring the acetone out. One the acetone slightly dried I began to pour in 1/3 of this container. And as directions stated rolling the tank in all directions and waiting a bit for the sealer to move around. Also to note the sealer is bright red and makes it Very easy to see in the tank. It took a few days for the sealer to set due to the humidity that week, noted on the container it is cured when the chemical smell is gone. Few days later I mounted it on the bike filled with fuel and with clear fuel hose there was no hint of red at all and my clear fuel filter is still the same color as the day I bought it! Overall I would recommend this product to anyone looking to seal a tank that has surface rust.

Works great. Messy stuff, but well worth the money!1984 pitted ATV gas tank. Coated and sealed 100%!