GamaTech 110V/220V 10A/5A Pressure Switch for Water Pump and Air Pump, Digital Adjustable Pressure Controller, 0-230 Psi

I ordered this $59 replacement to the generic mechanical pressure switches available at Menard’s, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. made by Square D & Merrill that sell for $18 - $25.I installed this device less than a week ago, and it has been easy to set and let run with my 2-wire 230v 0.5HP submersible pump set at 85 ft.I liked the stated separate, easily adjustable cut-in and cut-out pressure set points, and corresponds well to my fluid-dampened bourdon tube pressure gauge.It starts and turns off my pump like clockwork on each setting. I’ve noticed some reviews stating they saw a delay in shut-off, which can be programmed as well, but I chose to leave that at default.I woke up at 4:30 am 2 days after installation with no water when flushing the toilet. I checked the pump room and found an error code displayed on the controller, no pressure on the analog backup gauge, and immediately wondered WTF. To cancel the error code, you simply push any of the 4 adjust buttons and in my case, my pump started running like normal up to my programmed 65 psi cutoff (40-65 psi set).What happened next was interesting. As soon as the pump kicked out, my 80 gallon pressure tank blew down from 65 to 40 psi in about 10 seconds, indicating massive abnormal flow somewhere. I watched the pump and tank cycle the same way again and shut off by the switch safety algorithm while I had eyes on it.I checked all the house and outdoor spigots, no leaks or bursts, nothing running. My supply piping has 2 check valves, one at the discharge outlet on the pump, and one in our pump room just upstream of the geothermal tee. Our geothermal pump & dump system was running at the time, and has a fixed 5 gallon/min flow restrictor in the system. I turned the thermostat to OFF and the abnormal blowdown immediately stopped.Bottom line - this safety feature in this switch saved our ass within two days of being installed. No doubt our submersible pump would have pumped dry and burnt up if we had our old mechanical switch on it.It turns out normal geothermal operation the storage tank allows operations in the tens of minutes before the pump cycles on. A new 5 gal/min fixed orifice flow restrictor is on order for and yes it’s balls hot outside 29 July - 1 Aug 2024.Notes: For 220V wiring, you have 2 bundles one for power (inlet) and another identical marked outlet (for your pump). The yellow/green wire is for your ground. The other 2 wires, white and black, are for your hot wires (included brief user manual included actually states this). So a normal 3 wire 220V cable has red & black hot wires and a white for neutral/ground.If you get confused, read the documentation. The control wires white & black are switched on and off while the green/yellow is not.Well worth the money!

Bought this after trying several other pressure switch setups for my irrigation pump. I feed off of a lake with a high volume pump (max psi 43) with pressure tank. Mechanical switches cycled too much and was going to shorten the life of pump. Tried an inline switch that water ran through but could not adjust pressure settings. Bought this easy to install, setup and worked great for a year. Wouldn't shut off last week something failed internally. Contacted Gammatech after trying several tests and they sent me a new one several days later under warranty. Great customer service and still love product.

Ill start with the good, the adjustability of this pressure switch is unmatched and it works great! Being able to adjust pressure with such precision and the ability to add a time delay are things a mechanical 30/50 or 40/60 switch could never do. In my installation with a 75' submersible 1HP Pump that imo was cycling too often. This was able to get my cycle times and pressure perfect!Now the bad (it's pretty bad)Although it is listed as being able to handle 1.1kw / (10 amps @ 120v or 5 amps at 240v). It's gauge of wire and PCB Mounted relay are not up to the task of in my case almost 30amps! (5.5a-6.1a running/1.3kw-1.4kw) of inrush current that is 7.2kw! The PCB mounted relay will be melted in a couple weeks. So to solve this issue, build a relay box! 30a/240v x2 Realys or a DPST Contactor (SPST for 120v) and let the relays handle the current of starting the pump, not the pressure switch unless you're running a 1/4hp pump (in which case this is definitely up to the task). This added complexity to my install BUT you NEED a junction box anyway so adding a couple relays is easy and this switch will last a LIFETIME in my setup as there is no load being carried by the pump!

It comes with what appear to be 16 AWG stranded wires on both the input and output sides. I’m sure that’s enough for the average 1/2 or 3/4 HP pump, but I don’t feel confident with the pumps power running through this, or connecting solid wire to stranded 6 times, although I’m sure you could hide them in a junction box somehow if you ran a 6”nipple through one under the switch.I think the best way to use this is to run the main pump power wires through a 240V 40A contactor, and then use the stranded wires on this gauge to switch the contactor. The instructions recommend this for pumps over 1.5 HP, but I think even for smaller pumps you’ll get a cleaner installation, that’s more reliable, and has better connections.

Worked perfectly

worked great for 3 hours then failed on.

This is a nice little compact unit. Easy to install understanding the electronic side of it automatically adjust to the input voltage whether it be 110 or 220 makes no difference, just hook it up on the input side then output side to your pump. If your water source gets low, the pump will automatically shut down to eliminate burning it up. Don't go over one and a1 1/2 horsepower. I think you'll find it works fine.

Installed along with a 110v contactor for Gould 1.5 hp water pump. Had a problem with the bladder and this switch saved the pump on 2 occasions. Pump runs but could not build pressure . After trying different fixes pump worked. At night pump could not build pressure and the switch shut it down. Replaced bladder tank which took care of the problem. Not sure what was wrong with the old bladder tank, but it was 20 years old.