KINLUOTNylon Filament 1.75mm, Black PA6 Nylon 3D Printer Filament, 1KG Spool(2.2lbs), Neatly Wound Cardboard Vacuum Packaged for 3D Printers

This is the second nylon I have attempted to print with, and the results are almost identical. My Ender 3 has all the upgrades needed to handle nylon (upgraded hot end, printer in an enclosure, even filament kept in an active electronic filament dryer up to the moment it goes into the extruder) yet I cannot keep the filament dry enough to get a good print.Test prints I was making less than a day after opening the sealed package showed signs of saturation. The print surfaces are rough, it sounds like frying bacon while it prints as moisture boils out, and I can pull the prints apart with my bare hands. Since this is the second time it's happened, and because of other testing, I'm deducing the nylon material just struggles in these conditions, regardless of brand.I live in south Texas. The humidity in my office where my printers are is always between 50-60%. I use desiccants and filament dryers to keep my spools dry during storage, which works great for PLA, PETG, ABS, and TPU. However, nylon's properties seem to make it impossible for me to get it dry enough and keep it dry enough, even with active drying. (I can get the dryer chamber humidity down to 10-15%) I had hoped this filament would handle the moisture better than the other nylon I tried, but it performed exactly the same and I think I'm just not going to be able to print nylon unless I find a more effective drying solution.I don't blame the filament for conditions where I live(so I'm not scoring it low just because I can't use it), but I do want to advise anyone else in a hot, humid area who wants to try printing with nylon to be aware that you might have problems with keeping it dry enough to use. In my case it pulls enough moisture from the air for the spool to be unusable in a matter of hours. As alternatives for humid areas, if you need higher temperature resistance, PETG and ABS work well for me. If you need strength, carbon fiber PLAs have made some of the strongest prints I've done. The only thing the manufacturer did that I don't like is they put it on a cardboard spool. I'm all for using cardboard spools which are easier to recycle and create less plastic waste, EXCEPT for using them with filaments that are so sensitive to moisture. The cardboard absorbs a lot of moisture itself, which makes it that much harder to dry the spool and keep it dry.

I've been curious about printing with Nylon for some time due to its strength and temperature resistance, and this is my first spool of Nylon after being heavily into 3D printing for about a year.Nylon is definitely not for the faint of heart. You definitely need a filament dryer, and your printer needs to be enclosed. In my case, I also found out that I had an awful filament dryer that couldn't even get hot enough to dry out the nylon, maxing out at 70C, and even after 12 hours of drying in there, a print still sounded like sizzling bacon. Since I have a couple filament dryers, I then went ahead and tried out my other one, and that got up to a higher temperature, and after another 12 hours in that dryer, I tried again.I'm printing on an Ender 3 V2, but I have an upgraded all-metal hotend, and have it in an enclosure. I printed on a PEI sheet covered in glue stick. Even with cranking the bed temp all the way up to 110C, and printing at 250C, I definitely still had noticeable warping off the bed. I printed out a plastic spudger tool, and my first attempt at that warped pretty badly, but when I re-tried printing it with a brim, it stayed down on the bed and turned out pretty nice.I definitely still need to play around with retraction settings, but at least for mostly solid parts, I've got things dialed in well enough to have a couple functional pieces.Knowing how notoriously difficult Nylon is to work with, I have to lean toward my issues being my fault for being a novice with this material, and that I've got more to learn. It is definitely showing promise, although I would say, given its difficulty, that I'll be sticking to using this only when I need functional parts that can withstand high temperatures, and not use it for decorative pieces.As this filament seems to be priced right in line with other manufacturers, I would consider it a decent deal, and worth considering if you're looking for Nylon.

This was my first time printing with nylon and I struggled getting this filament to print only to realize that you need to dry the filament prior to printing, even if it comes straight out of the package. Once I did that, I had a much better printing experience. I did have to reduce the default slicer speeds for this filament since bed adhesion became an issue. Overall, I am satisfied with this filament, but would not recommend nylon to users just entering the 3D printing hobby.

This nylon seems to warp even more than ABS. You will definitely need an enclosure to print this filament. You will also need a good filament dryer as it is extremely wet filament.

I want to make this filament work for me. I had the crazy Idea that I might be able to run it on an open printer. Don't do that. The raft wrapped off the bed before it even got to printing the part. So I moved it to an enclosed printer in a warm shed, and that made a huge difference. I printed 1 small snap cap. It looked ok, but the rim ripped off the first time I cycled it. So I adjusted the slicer settings, upper the temperatures, and the next one came out better. Next, I tried to print 7 in one batch and it was running great until half way through when the nozzle clogged and it went on to finish but the top half was missing. As far as nylon goes it seems typical and you still need to treat it as such, I can't ding it for being nylon. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

The Bambu x1Carbon struggled with this filament. However, it is not a problem with the filament, it is all about getting the printer dialed in correctly.It’s actually very nice filament and has a nice shine to it when the printer finally printed correctly.We had to use a glue stick for good adhesion, (which was not unexpected but we did try without as well, just to experiment)It is best to start printing at 240 and adjust in increments of 5 to find the best temp for your filament. You might go through a few stringy messes but it will be well worth it.