The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them With Style Paperback – Illustrated, November 21, 2017

This book is the first book I have seen quite like it - while there are many incredible resources out there for costumers interested in the 18th century, this is the most well-rounded, clear, colorful, and easy-to-follow book I've encountered yet. And it results in a period-correct garment!!Firstly, the book does not waste a lot of page space on fluff; it jumps straight into the good stuff immediately. The contents are extremely methodical, starting with what size and type of thread to use, a list of historical stitch types and how to use them, and how to make a mock-up (test garment in cheap fabric). It then breaks into four sections that each contain instructions for every piece in a complete look*.Each section has a small introduction about the period and nuances of its particular look; it talks about the history of the gown style, the fabrics used (and sometimes the differences between available modern fabrics vs. historical fabrics), and colors and decoration that would have been correct for the period.Following the introduction in each section, any special undergarments* necessary for that look are explained (these include underpetticoats, pocket hoops, split bum pads, bodiced petticoat, etc.) Each piece is actually laid out somewhat like a cookbook: lists of yardages and materials needed first, then a page showing the pattern pieces on a grid (which can be blown up on a photocopier), followed by a very visual (lots of pictures) tutorial on how to make each item. The tutorials shown clearly step-by-step , and utilize the hand-stitches taught in the first few pages of the book.After the undies, all the layers of each look are tutorialed in a logical progression from inside to out; gown petticoat, to stomacher, to gown, to trimmings. Every little piece has a how-to, from sleeve ruffles, to decorative bows, to pinked trim. An 18th century gown is an imposing project, but the way Stowell and Cox break it down makes it feel completely approachable, one piece at a time. There are so many photos of each process, including the fitting for each gown (the scariest part!), that even a brand new seamstress could feel reassured of success.After the gown tutorials, in each section there follows a tutorial for Every. Little. Accessory necessary to complete a look. Accessories are really what makes a look pop, bringing all the little details come together to make the wearer look like they just stepped out of a painting. Tiny accessories are included - like a ruffled ribbon choker and a tasseled sash - as well as larger and more involved accessories, such as a different cap for every era, hat trimmings, hat making, tuckers, mitts, aprons, reticules, etc. This is where you REALLY get the bang for your buck. Accessories are sometimes even more intimidating than a gown, because they can be complicated, fussy to research, and there are just so many darned options for them.At the very end of each of the four big sections are a couple "how to wear" pages, showing the model putting on each piece of the look, one garment at a time. It sort of recaps everything covered in the chapter by walking you through how to wear each piece (so you're not stuck wondering, "I have this tucker, but what tucks in and what tucks out? And how does this cap stay on my head?!")After all of the chapters, there is a small troubleshooting guide for how to address common fit problems one might encounter on the various styles. Since these garments are constructed so differently from modern clothing, it is a very helpful section even to an experienced seamstress. It includes a drawing of each fit problem and a blurb on how to correct it.Finally, there is an appendix (full of delicious citations, which are helpful to anybody who wants to dive deeper into research about each look and era), a short list of suppliers (it's always helpful to know sources for reliable materials for historical costuming), a wee bio on the authors, and a thorough index to help wade through all this awesome material.*NOTE: the only elements of each look NOT tutorialed in this book, are the shifts and stays. This is noted right away on the first couple pages of the book. Stays and all their variations are a very complex topic which could fill an entire other book like this one (which I would buy in a heartbeat!). Shifts also have a lot of variation, but they are a fairly simple project and there is a lot of information already out there on how to make them.Conclusion: this is an EXCELLENT resource, both for experienced costumers and new seamstresses. The huge amount of work that went into it is evinced in the beautiful and clear content. I am so excited to work my way through the making of each of these gowns!!

I could not wait to get this book and open it up.So what are you getting: Each chapter after the 1st has a photo of the completed garment and a page detailing the history of the item.CHAPTER ONE:• What the book is all about• Sewing an Eighteenth century gown• Fitting your mock-up• Piecing ItemsHistoric stitches and how to sew them of which you get 16, this includes one picture on the left side and a short paragraph describing how to complete the stitch, as well what it’s uses are.CHAPTER TWO:English Gown The English gown, includes how to sew the English gown bodice, first fitting and attaching the skirts, sleeves and cuffs, second fitting and finishing up, Undies, Petticoat, Stomacher, neck handkerchief, apron, cap, mitts, simple straw hat and how to get dressed and wear your English gown.Chapter Three: The Sacque gown The pattern for this gown is Simplicity 8578 and 8579. This section includes-Fabric choices, note on hair styling ,side hoops, petticoat, trim, stomacher, bows, :The sacque gown-bodice and first fitting-skirt panels and second fitting, sleeves, third fitting hem and trim, choker necklace, apron, cap, sleeve flounces, lace tucker and how to get dressed and wear your gownCHAPTER FOUR: The Italian Gown Fabric choices, The false rump, petticoat, :The Italian gown bodice and first fitting-finishing the bodice and attaching the skirts-the sleeves and final fitting, cap, puffs and bows, hat ,apron, neck tucker and elbow ruffles, how to get dressed and wear your gown.CHAPTER FIVE:The Round Gown Fabric choices, undies-petticoat and back pad, :The Round Gown-the under bodice and first fitting-skirts and sleeves-setting the sleeves and finishing the bodice-over bodice and skirt fronts, third fitting and finishing, sash ,ruffled chemisette, skirt style chemisette, cap, turban wrap, hat, muff, reticule, and how to get dressed and wear your gown.Troubleshooting-goes overs common fitting problems and how to correctAppendix -I really enjoyed this section Supplier list Acknowledgment and biographies IndexLikes: I feel like this book is complete. It bridges the gap between knowing what an 18th century garment looks like and how to construct one in an organic way. As well how to put it all together to have a complete authentic look.Dislikes: You only get gridded paper for the lining of the item and have to drape them to make them into the gown, which makes for pretty advanced work./Or you could try to find similar patterns and construct it from the book. I would have liked to have the Gowns on gridded paper and make the linings from there, as the linings are always easier to create. And /Or patterns for the gowns. As the description does not state it would include this information I did not take off any points. It would have been nice to have all the components in one book though.Not spiral, you can lay the book flat because of the way it is bound but I would have preferred spiral bound.I adore this book, think it accomplishes exactly what it said it would and hope that the authors continue to put out more..WINK WINK especially including a ROBE DE COUR, The pictures go hand in hand with the text and provide a resource for sewing these historical garments. Will I be sewing my entire ensemble by hand? Absolutely not but it will be good to be able to add some accurate hand sewing touches here and there.

I am really impressed with the info in this book. I expected some hand sewing techniques and a few gowns, but didn't expect the completeness of each "look" presented. This book gives you 4 gowns from different decades of the 1700s, all pieces minus a shift and stays. Often multiple options of accessories are also included. Tips and tricks for making items with modern fabrics and notions are given, and the authors are frank about when "close enough" has to be good enough. Only slight criticism is I'd personally like a clearer photo of a few of the accessory finished objects not on the model, some of the caps are hard to see what the finished piece should look like, which would really help a beginner out.Otherwise, if you are starting to get into any sort of Georgian costuming, this book is a great place to start and get your feet wet and build a good foundation before branching out!