Porcelain Repair Kit, Fiberglass Tub Repair Kit for Shower White Tubs, Tile Ceramic Toilet Stone Chips Scraps Drill Holes Repair, Tub and Tile Refinishing Kit Joint or Installation Adhesive (White)

My uneducated guess is that the several brands I see on Amazon are much the same and seem to have similar reviews. You get less quantity with this one (still fifteen times more than I needed) but it cost the least, $13. Perhaps I grabbed it because I saw a reviewer wrote it gives a glossy finish. It doesn't. I should have read a bunch more of reviews, especially about application. The instructions that come with it, in their virtual entirety, are: mix equal parts with stick, apply, wipe, wait ... hrs., sand. And it's way oversold. You want the disposable gloves from very start to finish because it's very sticky, both parts are already super sticky goo before mixing. I took the gloves off slightly early and it takes about 20 separate washings with strong soap to get the hands clean. I had a gash (hole) the size of a penny on a vertical fiberglass shower back. The goop dries very slowly for a good while making me endlessly wiping up as it flowed down. The depth might not have been no more than a quarter inch but it wasn't drying. I had a heat gun in the nearby closet but heat probably made it runnier. However, not long after, it began to firm up. Mixing possibly helps it solidify and I wish I had waited 15 minutes before applying it in the first place. Meanwhile, I had also applied some to a (1 x 3") strip at my feet in the tub which was also vertical - but no more than a tenth of an inch thick and it did not run off like the deeper spot did. It did run, but only required a couple followup wipes. You are given a curved plastic tool for application, which works ok, but metal putty knifes are good too. When it finally stopped sagging, I decided to remove the blue painters tape I had around the spots. This didn't cause a problem on the lower strip, but it was a big mistake for the higher penny-sized hole. The patch mix came forward a little on the edges and it was like chewing gum - easy to push in and form. But the patch mix got on spots right around the hole. It adhered instantly and I put cleaner right on it to soak for removing later. But the next day, all the scraping to get it off left scratches, even though they can't be seen at a distance, you see it up close. A day and a half later I come back to finish. I use a small grinder wheel on my power drill to take out the high and rough spots. This patch is tough - I was careful not to overdo it with the power drill, and I didn't primarily because the patch has an exceptionally hard finish. The sandpaper they give you is ultra fine and gone in an instant - it's more like a slight buff - playing it safe as to minimize dulling or scratching the surrounding area. The hole location stuck out just a little and I shaved it with a clean razor blade. Also risky and I scratched a little. The lower strip I probably shouldn't have patched at all because I might never have had to do anything. The higher hole was patched good but the color didn't match the mostly white fiberglass. Applying Sheffield Porcelain Touch-up (White) is a necessity! Lucky I have it. I knew the Porcelain touch-paint would be too white, so I poured a little in a chapstick cap, and then dipped my smallest tiny artist brush into some green colorant (Mixol 15) and swished into the white paint (to add a yellow hue) but I got too much colorant. It actually looked pretty good, but not good enough. So I applied straight white over that - unfortunately none of the under-color came through so now it was too white - equally ok in the other direction, so I left it for now at least - white tends to get darker. Depending on where you are using this patch, you will need to cover your job with Sheffield Porcelain Touch-up paint - which is available in many tones. If you do not want a dull, likely ugly patch, you have to use porcelain gloss paint to finish.

We were replacing our shower door with a semi-frameless one. The holes left by the old door were huge and deep, so I wanted them hidden. I first used Water-Weld by JB Weld to fill the holes most of the way. I had to wait a half hour for it to cure before I could apply the Tub & Tile Repair Kit. It's very sticky and you pretty much just have to eye the amounts used for that reason. 1:1 ratio. It works great on horizontal areas but on the vertical spaces it started to drip. When it was just starting to set up I went back with a razor and scraped at the stuff that was dripping out. I was able to force it back in the holes but it wasn't level when it was fully cured so I added more. I found that using the wooden popsicle stick which came in the kit, to apply the mix worked better than using the "spreader" that comes with it, although the spreader smooths it better. The kit comes with gloves. Wear nitrile gloves instead of the ones that come with it which were way too loose. The kit also came with a couple of red 1000 grit sanding disks. I tried them and it left red grit in any grooves that weren't completely covered over by the product and it was difficult to remove. You can scrape off excess with a razor. It takes about 18 hours to completely cure and you have ~30 minutes to work with it. It's pretty glossy like the tile. It hides pretty well. If you want perfect replace the tile.

I bought this to fill in over a rusted drain hole that I had to clean up on an old clawfoot tub. Once I got all the rust off of course there was no porcelain left so I bought this kit to try and cover up the bear cast iron so that I can reinstall a drain. This stuff works fantastic. Takes about 24 hours to cure. Dries hard and fairly smooth. The smoother you get it installed during application the easier is going to be once it dries. A word of warning, this stuff is messy. And it is sticky extremely sticky. Do not skip the gloves and you might want to keep an extra pair handy just in case you get too messy mixing the stuff together. One of the parts is a lot thinner in viscosity than the other so when you pull the little seal off make sure to do it gently so that you don't spill the stuff all over the place. The other jar of the contents is really thick. And you'll have a hard time getting it out of the container. Now all these difficulties matter little door next to nothing because your end result is going to be fantastic. I would recommend starting with 500 grit sandpaper though. And the kit only comes with thousand Grit. Especially if you get it on a little too thick. All in all a great product. You just need to make sure you follow the instructions and definitely wear your gloves. Completely solve the bare metal problem on my clawfoot tub drain hole. All for less than $10

Overall this dies what it says, and it does it well. The only challenge you may have is different products have different versions of 'white'.This matched the tub perfectly, but was a bit brighter than the tank. I have no issues with that as its impossible to match everything.

I followed the directions and this stuff worked great. I wanted something to patch up a chipped bowl. Gave this a try and it worked perfect. It's white ,dried hard, sounds like glass when I tap it and you can't hardly tell it was ever chipped. ok, those of you who said yours never hardened, I believe your mixture wasn't exact. I did one last coat and I kinda questioned if I had the 1/1 exact, and got up the next day and it was sticky. so, I wipef it off and put the last coat on again and WAS VERY CAREFUL TO GET 1/1 AS BEST I could and it hardened as HARD AS GLASS. I LEAVE IT OVER NIGHT. The sand paper they sent, I am not happy with because the color fades off. I used my own.

It was easy to use

This product was fairly easy to fill in a gap in my toilet tank cover that was chipped out when it slipped and hit the tank when I was putting it back on. I had to layer the liquid over a period of hours due to it flowed so easily and gravity would tend to make it indent. After fully hardened, was easy to sand it down to the original shape. I have to look hard to see the repair.

I have used this product in a number of applications now. I found it easy to mix and apply. I used a rotary tool to make sanding quick and efficient. The major issue I had is that once you have sanded enough of the epoxy off to make the surface smooth, the crack becomes visible. I had a fairly major chip on the edge of a bathtub and it has filled the hole nicely, but left a noticeable outline of the hole. I might have to get some kind of blending top coat, if such a thing exists.

Very disappointing. It's a very translucent white so now it highlights the crack that I was trying to hide. Would not recommend.