CE LH680005 Bryant Carrier 3 Wire Pilot Burner

The first burner did not work, but they sent a replacement and it works fine. Since the burner does not come with a spark igniter (the white block in your old one with a metal rod inserted in it), make sure to reinstall the one from the old one. If you hear clicking and you see a small spark, but the burner does not light, be sure to adjust the gap between the tip of the metal rod and the burner housing where the spark lands. The gap should be about 1/4 of an inch. It is safer to adjust the burner housing side (with a needle nose plier) than adjusting the rod, since it may break or you may damage the block. You should see a stronger spark and the burner will light after a minute or two when the gas reaches the pilot. If not, keep adjusting the gap until it works. No instructions came with the burner.

I think my previous one (probably installed by pro) was a knockoff considering the orifice. I now see what the original shape of the gas deflector should have been. I suspect with time the metal bends, so it doesn't ignite as well. Reused sparker, and tubing, but used new orifice. Turned up the heat and click click click, it lit right up.Very happy.The packaging was literally non existent. But it worked so no harm/no foul.Thanks to the other reviewers I bought this CE one. I think I got exactly the right product.The silver orofice is the new one the whiter/off center one is the old. Probably part of the problem. No markings on any of these, so no way to tell age, etc.I unscrewed the single screw on to with 1/4 driver and compression fitting by hand but put back with 90 degree pliers (compression so really not critical)Used plier to loosen screw on sparker and left it in the furnace while I changed bracket. Bracket screws took some force to get to start.

I looked at all the Ignitors sold by Amazon and selected one by "Supplying Demand" mainly because I know how finicky this part is and wanted to hit the fix on the first try and this one looked the best visually. The part arrived fast and my initial perception by inspection was good, looking like a well made part.Note that my furnace was not working well at all with the original part. Installing this one improved the situation but it was still short cycling, just not as bad as the original. Once the furnace would run for a while and heat up, the short cycling would stop and the furnace would then operate normally. However, after a cool down the process would repeat. Short cycling means the furnace would run for 20 seconds, then go off for 10 then on for 30 seconds, then off for 10, then on for 40 and so on, running longer on each restart.This part is a flaky design and that is on Carrier for making such a design that depends on a lot of precision to work properly. It depends on a metal bar bending when heated by the pilot flame which closes contacts in the process. The material selection for the bar is critical for this to work properly, as is the precision in the assembly. To their credit, I think the "Supplying Demand" part is well made but my guess is they just didn't pay enough attention to the material selection so there wasn't enough bend in the bar for it to work perfectly.Even though this part was a big improvement over the original part that lasted 30 years, I was not satisfied with the results. I would have sent it back for a refund but it was used and blackened since it actually sits in the flame. So I ended up buying this part from Amazon from a maker called "CE" and it worked perfectly. It was twelve dollars cheaper too. Don't get me wrong, maybe most of the parts work made by "Supplying Demand" and I just got a weak one. Unfortunately, I can only report my results and I didn't want to keep trying with them hoping to get lucky with the next part. I can conclude the CE part that I got here is a good part and works like it should.

There is someone else who has written that the gap between the igniter and gas deflector should be about 1/4". That is absolutely correct. I guess I did not need to replace. I just needed to fix the gap. But I replaced it since I did not know better. After reading reviews I realized if it is just clicking and the pilot light is not coming on, then the igniter is too close to the gas deflector. Create some space between them and the pilot light will turn on at first spark. There is another issue. Old screws did not work with this one. I'd just give it one star. Poor workmanship. It was a pain to replace. I hope they make better threads and size the thread holes correctly. It could also be an inconsistency related to manufacturing batches.

The product fit as designed and haven't had an issue since thr replacement.

My furnace was not lighting every time and the ignition was sporadic. This fixed the problem. Lots of spark and it lights off quickly.

This is the model we can use to repair our furnace however the fit was not exactly aligned with the slot so we needed to tinker a bit to get it in place.

It installed just as it should, and now I've got heat...YAY. Only beef I had is with two little holes in the side plate, where the assembly attaches to a mounting bracket. Not quite the same thread pitch as my 30-year old screws, so I bought #8 self-tapping screws and smacked them in with a hammer drill. 1/8" Pop-Rivets would work too, but would be less easy to back out someday. If I post no updates, that means the unit continues to work as it should.