milKit Tubeless UST Valves 1 Pair

I purchased initially the whole Milkit set was impressed initially by the product as the flaps at the end of these valve stems opened in a one way system when the injector was in place. This lead to little mess when using the injector. So I decided to buy 2 more valve sets to go with my other mtb wheelsets.There is a better way to go about tubeless for mtb and gravel than this setup I explain last. Now the downsides to these valve and Milkit.These valve are designed for weight and are best for XC or Road the threads can be defornmed and the puny rubber end to the valve stem didn't seal as well as such as No Name Chinese generic stems or the very well designed WTB stems. These are stouter stems and have a better o ring washer setup for atop the rim and better rubber end to meet the inside of the rim to prevent air loss around the valve hole at the rim, even if the valves hold. Also the "flaps" at the end of these can be deformed in the rubber with regular inector use and the whole one way valve no mess system they claim is out the window as the sealant can now come right back up like a normal stem with core removed.What is with the stem length 35 or 55 mm, 35mm is too short for all but low height aluminum mtb rims and 55mm is ungainly long for carbon mtb rims.However, the injector is single use intended of sorts because your sealant will clog it up after use with Slime STR was the worst, but also thinner Orange Seal has this clogging effect to a lesser extent. So then you get hooked into buying another Milkit system after either the injector "needle" clogs of the stopcock near the syringe after they get irreparably clogged by second use. This get very expensive fast for an already very expensive product. What may help is washing, flushing and purging the sealant from the injector with water immediately after use and not throwing that water down the sink, still time consuming.A much better and cheaper way to go about it. Buy WTB stems 45 mm reasonable price, KOM injector with no stopcock to clog, and a paper towel and good sealant. Purge your KOM injector every time with water rinse. Lasts longer, seals better, and maybe 10 drops of "mess" if you do it right. Oh and far far cheaper both upfront and in the long run.

While riding a particularly technical/rocky section, I broke one of these vales completely in half. Any other valve would have immediately released all the air and left me using my emergency tube or worse - walking out. Not these valves. The internal valve held pressure and I was able to ride out without any issue. I immediately ordered a replacement set. The stealth valve core tool it pretty cool too.

It shouldn’t cost this much. It works like they say, a good solution. Occasionally the valve sticks and doesn’t let much air in or out. But I have the problem more on the longer valve not this short one.

these will twist in the channel if you tighten the valve too hard. could use a barrel shaped UST base. otherwise, while expense, these do a good job with tubeless sealant management.

These valves are great. They make the installation of tubeless tires easier and they don't get clogged anymore by the sealant.I bought the whole milKit compact system first and was amazed at how clean and fast tubeless installation and maintenance has gotten. Now I needed more valves for my second bike. I can absolutely recommend it!

good

Just like the valves I ordered with the complete kit, these were easy to install and trouble free. Highly recommended.

works exactly as advertized, saves time.

I had big expectations for these but they just didn't work for me. I don't know if it was my rims but when I tightened them on, the nut went beyond the thread before becoming tight meaning they wouldn't seal. Also, one of the valve cores wouldn't unscrew leaving it stuck. I didn't buy the full system and was unable to inject sealant with my syringe. All in all, very disappointed.

Great product for running tubeless and adding or checked fluid levels.

Have these on all my bikes. Can check the tubeless sealant and the level without deflating the tyres

These valves will not tighten. There's play in the nut that tightens to the rim and the rubber base/stopper that goes inside the rim rotates and has no structural integrity. Not like other brands which have a metal flange and then a rubber seal on top of the flange, all this valve has is the rubber base to press up against the rim. There's no way to ever get this tight. There's no o-ring for under the nut either which would have at least provided some friction to reduce the chance of loosening the valve on pump connect.I've had these installed for a whopping 3 months and my tubeless tires constantly leaked through the valve and since I couldn't actually get the valve anywhere near tight every time a pump was attached the valve loosened and leaked. They sat in a bin for the winter months. Now I'm out $40 and need to buy new valves as after 3 months they are shot and I can't return them....Then there's their whole gimmick of filling up an inflated tire which is incredibly impractical to start with. The only benefit is to remove sealant. But who actually removes sealant with a syringe? It either dries up and you need to clean the tire as it's going to increase rolling resistance with a bunch of dried up sealant or you add more.They also make it incredibly hard to set a bead as you can't remove the core. The core needs to remain in the valve to pierce the diaphram. This makes these valves quite literally impossible to use properly with my high volume pump.Litearlly garbage for $40. This is a product that should outlast my bike.These valves were created to fix a problem that doesn't exist and spent what should have went towards making a quality valve on marketing and I'm an idiot who fell for it. Don't be that guy.... don't be me.

Sinceramente credevo di comprare il kit definitivo per risolvere i miei problemi, invece ho riscontrato diversi problemi in entrambe le bici su cui l'ho montato:Nella prima (CUBE RACE PRO 27) non è stato possibile mettere le valvole perchè appena avvitato l'anello, la parte finale della valvola entrava nel buco, facendo uscire la valvola per intero.Nella seconda bici (SPECIALIZED STUMPJUMPER 2015) ho avuto problemi di fuoriuscita di aria sempre vicino all'anello di serraggio che stringendolo di piu', fa ovalizzare la parte di gomma che va dentro al cerchione causando una perdita di aria ancora più grande.Inoltre la valvola è difettosa: quando premo la parte centrale per far uscire l'aria, la valvola non riesce ad arrivare in fondo e l'aria non esce.