SCARPAMen's Helix Lace Rock Climbing Shoes for Trad and Sport Climbing - Hyper Blue - 10.5

After trying on several different brands of climbing shoes at the local REI and EMS, I purchased these through Amazon, because only Amazon had my size. As I've only been climbing for a few weeks, I was not interested in a hyper-aggressive shoe with a sharp downturn and a tiny toe box. That said, if you're climbing 5.11 routes and beyond, maybe you'll want something more aggressive. For me, however, these are great. In the end, it came down to a choice between this - the Scarpa Helix, and the La Sportiva Nago, and I ended up going with these due to the *slightest* advantage in comfort. (I would not hesitate to purchase the La Sportiva Nago, if the Scarpa Helix didn't exist.) My fiancee went with the La Sportiva Nago (women's version, of course), and she's pleased with them, so your mileage may vary.First, let me describe the shoe: All of the shoe is leather except for the sole, the pull strap on the heel, the stitching, and the laces. Stitching is remarkably sturdy-looking throughout, and if memory serves, the shoe is stamped "Made in Italy" on the inside. Being an Italian shoe, sizing is European... (with US equivalents) but get this... for me, comparing the Scarpa Helix to the La Sportiva Nago (another Italian shoe), I was a FULL SIZE BIGGER in the Scarpa Helix... so keep that in mind when ordering. (Just to be clear, put a US 10 Scarpa Helix sole to sole next to a US 9 La Sportiva Nago, and they will be pretty much identical.)Seriously - you are probably thinking "This guy isn't buying shoes that are tight enough," but you're wrong. I did my research and talked with several super-experienced climbers, so I know-I know-I KNOW that just about everyone says that you should buy climbing shoes a little smaller than your street shoe size, but THROW THAT LINE OF THINKING OUT OF THE WINDOW when sizing yourself for a Scarpa Helix. I say this because even if you use your street shoe as your starting point for fitting, you are probably going to find that the Scarpa Helix is way, WAY tighter than you're expecting, and you'll end up moving up half a size or more.In my case, I actually ended up with a size slightly LARGER than my street shoe size, and trust me - they fit perfectly - SUPER snug like a climbing shoe should be... with no room at the toe, and tight to the point where a little breaking in / stretching would be welcome, but still not painful to wear. I'm telling you, the Helix IS a quality shoe, but Scarpa's sizing is WAY off. Still, don't let that dissuade you from buying these, or at least trying them.A huge factor in the comfort of these shoes is the toe box, which is a little more ample than you'll find in other climbing shoes (except for the Nago, which also has a somewhat ample toe box). Honestly, some climbing shoes border on being 19th century foot-binding devices, but not the Helix (or the Nago, for that matter). The thing to look for (if you're NOT one of the climbers who thinks that they should be in pain the entire time they're climbing, or who secretly desires mountain goat feet) is a normal-ish looking toe box; specifically, note that the laces in the Scarpa Helix and the La Sportiva Nago DO NOT extend all the way to the end of the toe. That, my friends - along with the leather upper and overall quality construction - is probably why this shoe is so comfortable. Less lacing also makes for a quicker on-off procedure, which saves you time before and after you climb.As for how they perform - again, I'm definitely a novice climber, and not even remotely advanced - but I haven't slipped since buying these. Standing on a 1" ledge, I'm noticeably more secure than I would've been in the gym's rentals (mostly well-worn Five Tens and Mad Rocks). Also, the sole didn't seem to require an initial break-in climb like it did on my fiancee's Nagos. (Her Nagos were slipping on her first day of use, but for her second day and beyond, she loves them.) By contrast, the Helix seemed to grip from the beginning, although that may be due to individual differences in weight and movement style.So, in summary, I recommend the Scarpa Helix for non-advanced climbers who require a decent toe box. If you order, I suggest starting at your US street shoe size, if not, half a size up. Once you get that pair and try them on, note the European size and adjust up or down from there, and don't bother even referring to the US number.If you get the Scarpa Helix and you don't like them, I suggest giving the La Sportiva Nago a shot.

The most comfortable shoe I've had yet! Great for long sessions. I love the fabric lining in the heel, it's a really great feature that adds so much comfort. I bought them true to my sneaker size and they were comfortably tight at first and after breaking in maybe gained a half size. Now they are gently snug on my toes and I can keep them on in between climbs if I want to, without feeling loose when climbing.The sole lasted 3 months before getting to the rand, which has been average for me given my weight (190lbs) and frequency (2-3 times a week, 8-10 hrs total). I'll save them for a resole at this point because I really like the feel of these.The size of the Helix feels the same as La Sportiva's Finale, but is quite different from my Scarpa Vapor V's. The labels say they are the same size but the Helix is about a half centimeter longer than the Vapor V's. I use the Helix for the bulk of my climbing but switch to the tighter Vapor V's when footwork really counts.Only downside to the Helix has been my feet getting stained blue after long sweaty sessions in the first 2 months. I'd buy these again.Update: I snagged another pair of these on sale, I love them that much. I have a pair of Scarpa Force V's I've been trying lately, they're good but I much prefer the lacing of the Helix for the glove like fit over the Force V's velcro straps.Update 2:2 years later, both pairs still holding up great. One pair has been resoled twice and the other once.

Comfortable, flexible, room for socks but they struggle on more difficult climbs because of the lack of support

I ordered these online without trying them on because it was a good sale. I tried on a different scarpa model at my local REI and thought the 44 fit perfectly, this came in just slightly smaller than the other model which were velcro close instead of the lace up. I still think they are excellent shoes and have started to brake in and become more comfortable after about 5 wears. They are comfortable enough to wear for several climbs in a row and then my feet need a break. Great beginner shoe (myself) since the sole is solid rubber and allows for easier support during edging.

Nice shoes. Good toe shape and hold. I wear a standard 11 in street shoes and ordered these in the 11/44.5 and they were painfully tight. Reordered 11/45, yes the sizing charts do not agree. On the size selection it says 11.5/45 but both shoes are labeled inside as 11. The 45 fit perfect. Just the right amount of tight and my climbing partner who wears a 10.5 street took my 11/44.5 and he loves the fit on those. So for us weekly climbers we are satisfied with 1/2 size up.

These are great climbing shoes. I tried on all sorts of shoes and these were the I only ones that fit the structure of my foot. I have a really long second toe and all the other shoes smashed it, but this one is great. They are sticky, easy to move in, and give a good feel of the rock. I got a size 41 and usually wear a women's 9 if it helps.

I liked these shoes quite a lot, but I'm only giving four stars because they wore out very quickly (less than three months of gym climbing 2-4 times per week). Part of it might be the type of climbing I do, lots of ARC training which involves climbing at relatively easy grades for 45 minutes to an hour straight. The sizing was also a little different than the Scarpa Force V I had previously, which lasted around six months longer than these. Same size, same brand, and these were about 0.5 size bigger (EU) than Force V. I wish I'd gotten 43.5 instead of 44. For comparison, I wear size 10 1/2 US in running shoes.