BaroqueFret Erasers 180 & 400 & 1000 Grits, Guitar Fret Polishing Abrasive Rubber Blocks, Set of 3 Grits

These are fantastic for fret polishing. They are not intended to file down a fret or anything like that. A bit overpriced IMO, but should last a long while.

I decided to try these out on an old T. Haruo Model 80 acoustic guitar that I had bought back in the 1970s.I leveled the frets first and then crowned them with a fret crowning file that I'd also just bought. When I was done crowning the frets, I used the coarser fret eraser on them. Without taking the trouble to look it up, I think the grits on the erasers are 180, 400 and 1000.The 180 grit does a very nice and quick job on the frets. I didn't notice too much more improvement with the 400 grit. Of course, there was some improvement, but the improvement from crowning the frets with a file and then to polishing them with the 180 grit eraser was the biggest and quickest improvement. In fact, you could probably get by with the 180 grit eraser alone.I didn't care too much about the guitar. I hadn't played it in decades. I didn't care if I ruined it. However, I found out that I was able to do a perfect job on the frets without even touching the fingerboard. Don't do this, though!I had a box full of various Martin acoustic strings, so I went ahead and strung up the guitar. Surprisingly, the guitar sounds beautiful. The workmanship, if you look close, is no where near the quality of a Martin guitar, but the sound is probably as good as an upper end Martin, surprisingly. I know because I also have a Martin HD-28 acoustic guitar. The T. Haruo guitars, like many other guitars, were styled after the Martin guitars, especially the Martin Dreadnought guitars. The Dreadnoughts are the largest or "jumbo" Martin guitars.Anyway, if you are going to use the fret erasers, you probably care about your guitar or you wouldn't be taking the trouble to polish the frets. In that case, I'd suggest using masking tape between all the frets that you are working on. You can buy different widths of masking tape. You'll need a narrow width for the higher frets, so it's best to buy one roll of wide width and one roll of narrow width tape. I doubt very much that the fret erasers are going to hurt your frets, but the 180 grit will brighten the dirtiest and nastiest frets very quickly, for starters. If you want to spend enough time, you can bring the frets up to a pretty good shine using the other erasers.

These can remove A LOT of fret material if you're not careful. I'd recommend using only the finest (800 grit) of these. The set should be much finer grit, like 1000+, etc.

I purchased these after watching a YouTube video where they were recommended. I have a Fender Squire Telecaster that had very rough frets. These little guys did the job to smooth them out! Took about an hour to do all the frets. The difference it made to the playability of this budget guitar is awesome. Very happy with them and definitely recommend them.

Speedy delivery and works great!

I needed to clean up a VERY worn-out fretboard (Fender Jazz bass guitar). I don't do this for a living, so no need to spend twice as much for a "professional" set of fret erasers. The photos show the severe wear on the "before" view. I protected the fret board with carefully-applied tape, then worked over each fret starting with the 180 grit, followed by the 400, then finished up with the 1000 to get a nice shine. The frets are not perfect now, but many times better than before. I didn't get overly aggressive since removing the dents completely would cause too much reduction in fret height. I used the square edges of the erasers to get down into the joint where the fret meets the fret-board, and this resulted in rounding off the eraser corners quite a bit, so they won't be as useful next time. Which, for me, may be never.

These really handle like rubber erasers, they're not all that flexible, just a little bendable. They also shed soft particles like a rubber eraser that you will need to clean off, they really show up on a maple fingerboard. These will NOT bend enough to conform to frets like the sponge-type abrasives. They WILL bend enough to get a nice finish on the top of a crown. You can get the sides of the frets by placing the edges against the side of the fret and rubbing side to side while twisting around the shape of the fret. Pretty easy to do. I wish there were a grit in between 400 and 1000, or maybe a 1500 instead of the 180, which is just as easy to do with conventional sandpaper. Very high priced, but seems like they will last me forever, as I am not a pro that will be doing tons of guitars. I used these on one neck with stainless frets and they are fine.

No issues.

I just need a light fret file to remove any oxidation before new strings go on. I bought these for all the good ratings but in my case it was overkill. The erasers leave rubbery debris just like the old pencil eraser whereas a fret file (like a nail file) does not. These may be perfect for a luthier doing a fret dress but overkill for light filing usage. For the price a vinyl storage case would be nice.

Worked well for the job intended.

Très satisfaite

Sand paper is more effective.

Ca faut un excellent travail