White-Rodgers 50A55-743 Control Board

To preface, a week ago I had very little knowledge of how a furnace really worked. So it finally got cold this fall and I turned on the furnace for the first time a few days ago. Crap, no heat. After checking the furnace, I got a couple different errors. First, I was getting 3 blinks, pressure switch open error. The inducer motor would come on but the igniter would not get hot and obviously no flame. After watching a few youtube videos on how to diagnose common furnace issues I was able to get a good grasp on what to test. Testing the pressure switch was easy. All you need to do is put your voltmeter in continuity mode and place the leads on it. There should be no continuity when the inducer motor is off. Once the inducer motor comes on and causes the draft then the change in pressure will close the pressure switch and cause voltmeter to beep if it's in working order. My inducer motor was starting and closing the pressure switch reliably yet I was getting the pressure switch open error. Hence I knew most likely the board was bad. After more testing, a 2nd error I was getting was a continuous single flashing light. This time, the inducer motor would come on and the hot surface igniter would glow bright but no click of gas valve and again no flame. This rules out the igniter as a problem. It also effectively ruled out a pressure switch being the issue since the igniter would not come on without the pressure switch closing. Could it be a gas valve issue? Possibly, but from I've read they rarely fail. The way to help diagnose the gas valve is to test for voltage to the gas valve. You should get 24V to the gas valve for it to open. If the hot surface igniter comes on and you get voltage to the valve but no flame, then the valve is bad. If you don't get voltage, the board is likely bad. I had 0V to my gas valve indicating a board problem as I suspected. I ordered this board and received it two days later just as a cold front was arriving, replacing a 50A55-289 board which is no longer sold. The board layout was the exact same and it was an easy 15 minute swap. Firing up the furnace for first time was nerve wracking but after 20 seconds or so, everything fired up perfectly. I had just saved myself about $500 for a few hours of research/diagnostics/labor and a lifetime of knowledge. I'll likely pick another one for backup since they apparently fail often.

On my old unit, it appeared that the fan relay on the original board was sticking causeing the fan to cut off and on (mostly off). I purchased and installed the board successfully. It works great! I am not an HVAC professional. The trickiest thing about the install was mapping and placing all of the old wires to the appropriate plugs on the new board. The new board was slightly different than the original. It had more plug slots. Upon examination, the new board offers more features, hence more plugs and a pin switch that wasn't on the old board. Thankfully the instructions and motherboard were well marked. I simply was carefull when moving the wires to ensure they were mated to the correct plug on the new board. Took 30 minutes - but I never did this before. On day 3 of use and it it working perfectly....Beat the almost 1,000 the pros were going to charge me (but you are paying for their knownledge, skill and the convenience).

Had an intermittent 4-flash "open high limit" fault message on my ~15 year old system at startup (definitely not reaching a high limit). Lots of multimeter'ing did not reveal any obvious problems on sensors, transformer, wiring, etc. The system would run for a few days normally, then fault out. Simple power cycling would not resolve the problem, but after poking around a bit, it would work again until the next fault. Found out online that the original board was prone to failures after many years in service, so gave this replacement board a try. Was very easy to install and system has been working great for over a month. Replaced another board in the same-aged second furnace which had been having random 6-flash "open rollout" faults (before startup, and even on A/C setting - there was definitely no rollout happening), and it too seems to be working fine now. Great value for the money and way better than paying someone to do this for me.

Update: Board burned out within 4 days. Contacting Amazon about a return. HVAC guy on his way to my house. With cold weather rolling in, of course we turned on our heat for the first time this year. After a couple of days, I noticed that the air coming from the vents didn't feel particularly warm, and the temperature wasn't increasing in the house. Thanks to some quick youtube videos and a few minutes with a flashlight and screwdriver in the attic, I was able to find that the Pressure Sensor Switch was showing as not closing. I took off the sensor, cleaned it, and checked it with a multimeter... working fine. Reattached it to my furnace, still throwing the code (3 blinks). I traced the wires and wiggled them a bit, thinking maybe if there was a broken wire, that would show an open switch. After wiggling the cables, the furnace ignited and all was well. Or... so I thought. The house warmed up, the furnace turned off... and hours later the air comes back on blowing room temp (not hot). Back up to the attic. Wiggled the cables again and noticed that the point where the wiring harness plugged into the control board seemed to be the place the cables are loose. Tossed a few Zip Ties around the board to hold the wire harness on tight and that did the trick for a few days. After that, the vibrations of the, ya know, giant box of fire and spinning death blades managed to wiggle the Zip-ties a little loose. After 3 days of going up to the attic to manually light the furnace every time we wanted to warm up.. I had a decision. I could call the HVAC company to send a tech out... or I could buy a new controller and swap it myself. I looked up the price of a new control board from an HVAC supplier... anywhere from $80-200 plus the cost of a service tech coming out to swap the board. Weighed that against buying this universal board from Amazon... for $45. Since $45 <<<<< $400+, I figured it was worth rolling the dice. When the board came in (a day earlier than expected, btw) I ran up and spent 10 mins taking out the old board, taking photos/notes of where the wires were all connected, installing the new board, and connecting everything back up. Phoned the wife downstairs and asked her to switch the thermostat on... 30 seconds later the furnace was burning brightly. Bolted the door back on and went downstairs. 3 days later, house is still nice and warm. :) All that said, $45 for this control board saved me probably $400 in service calls and overpriced replacement parts, all for a quick 15 minute fix. Thanks Amazon and YouTube!

Does the job works great ive installed several of these and never have ave any issues

Perfect replacement for my Goodman GMS8 HVAC unit. Original board was 50T55-289, unit manufactured in 2007. There were a couple extra terminals on this new board that were not used in my application. No big deal. The new board also has adjustable on/off delay. Replacement is relatively easy; study connections on old board (I took photos to be safe), and connect the new board exactly the same. Diagnosing the faulty board was not so easy: -First step is to find the service manual for the particular unit on google. -When the unit is having a problem, a small LED light on the control board will flash a certain number of times to tell you where to start checking (in my case, the heat wouldn't come on and my LED would flash three times, indicating a faulty pressure switch). There is a reference chart in the service manual to decode the LED flashes. -I checked the pressure switch with my Harbor Freight multi meter (free with coupon) and determined that it was indeed closing (evident by voltage at both wire leads) when the inducer fan was running. This also means that there is no blockage in the connection hose or the flue vent duct. So pressure switch good, but why 3 flashes? -Next in sequence is ignitor. The ignitors commonly crack which causes them to fail. So with my free harbor freight multi meter, I tested its resistance by unplugging it and placing the probes on each of the two wires: 68 ohms (spec is between 50 and 300, so ignitor is good). -So then, last thing to test is amount of voltage being sent to the ignitor. Should be 120 volts AC (and the control board decides when to send this during the cycle). Inducer fan starts, pressure switch closes, ignitor should be hot but... no voltage to ignitor from control board. Meaning control board is bad :( But nothing $45 to Amazon won't fix!! The thing that makes me happiest is not paying a ridiculous fee to the local HVAC Techs. I know I've saved many hundreds of dollars in exchange for one and a half or two hours of my time. They recently charged me $445 to change a $10 capacitor! Next day, heat goes out again, so they show up again and change the thermostat for "free". Nice thermostat, but the damn heat still won't come on!! I'm not an HVAC tech, but I could certainly play one on TV now!

Our furnace suddenly stopped working during an unusually frigid week here in New Jersey. It kept trying to start up but the burners just wouldn't light up. I tested the usual suspects; the pressure switch, flame sensor, roll-out switches, HSI, but they all seemed to be within spec. All evidence pointed to the gas valve, since it was receiving the right voltage input, but it didn't seem to want to switch the gas open. So I ordered a replacement gas valve and resigned myself to calling one of the local contractors to switch it out once I picked it up, since I'm neither comfortable working with gas piping nor have the equipment to calibrate gas valves. Meanwhile, while waiting for the gas valve to be ready for pick-up, on a whim, I started doing further research on the furnace control board. It turned out that several people with Goodman furnaces had similarly switched out their gas valves only to realize that it was a control board failure. The control board on my furnace, part number 50T55-289-03, is no longer made or sold, but the 50A55-743 seemed to be the most promising replacement. At $50 (including next day), it was a relatively inexpensive bet. So I ordered it here, and it took just 15 minutes to switch the old one out and put this one in. I noticed two extra pins on this board that are optional and can be ignored, but it's otherwise identical to the board it replaced. Even the mounting standoffs line up. I turned on the furnace, and it went through the sequence, and then lit right up! I've come to learn that these Goodman furnaces have control board failures every 3-5 years. I expect it's because they don't have sufficient thermal/mechanical shielding. But at least they're fairly inexpensive and easy to replace. I'm ordering another one to keep on hand in case this happens again, but I hope that's another 5 years away.

This product saved me a ton on furnace repair. I did a bit of research online and found that my furnace would cycle through all of the functions but would not ignite (even though the igniter came on). I pinpointed the problem down to two possible issues, a faulty gas valve or this electric control board. The furnace would occasionally fire on if I cycled the power on and off multiple times, so I concluded the gas valve was not the culprit. I replaced this board and now the furnace works flawlessly. There are extra connections on the board that my furnace did not need because this board can be used for multiple furnace configurations but it still works perfectly as intended. I recommend taking your time and transfer the connections one by one from the old board to the new one to make sure you get everything back together correctly. It is simple but important. Great product, highly recommend to anyone that might need this.

Replaced failing OEM White Rodgers 50A55-289 on Goodman Single Stage Furnace. Furnace was going into soft lock out, control board solved issue. Identical physical/electrical/controls installation, furnace cycles thru stages as per design.

Good price better than from tech who wanted 400 for one.

I was told that the controller board for my furnace had been discontinued, however, I suspect that they were more interested in selling me a new furnace. This board was a direct replacement for my old control board. This is not a repair for your average homeowner.

The product is very well priced, it is a newer model and very easy to install. Can not ask for anything better. Thank you you saved the day and my pocket.

PCB looks better finished then the previous replacement unit.