103-2942 CV Joint Boot Kit

This was a nice complete kit that included almost everything you needed to do this job. I just wish it had some type of better way to crimp the clamp and pull the clamp band at the end of the job. I had to buy a tool for $25 just to pull the stainless steel zip tie style wrap and folded backwards that came with the boot kit. This is a lot of work instead of replacing the entire axle, but if you catch the axle in the beginning of a small tear before it starts clicking or making noise, this is worthwhile . do not waste your time buying this if your axle is already making noise, clicking, clunking, squealing, squeaking because it’s been torn and contaminated inside that is too late This is made for a fresh tear where you can catch it before all the grease is gone and it’s contaminated. But again it’s a dirty greasy job and patience is needed but for $15. It was cheaper than spending 60 for an axle.

A quality product at a far price. I have been using these for years and have never had any issues. They have exact fit for the make and model. A great way to save money by replacing a torn cv boot instead of buying a whole new half axel.

One star because this boot didn't fit on my 2010 Honda Accord LX-S despite the fitment guide stating that it would. Apparently there are two different sizes used around 2010. The large end of the boot was way too small and would.t fit over the CV knuckle. The correct Beck Arney boot with a larger big end is part # 103-2927. According to Amazons fitment guide, both boots fit the 2010 Honda accord. Due to it not fitting, I ordered a new axle and had to wait a whole day with my car up in the air. If you buy this boot , dry fit it first

I choose this to replace a split boot on a 2004 STi. The OEM axles were still in good shape (not clicking) and are far superior than the remanufactured ones, hence why I'd rather keep the axle and simply replace the boot. Changing a boot is an involved job, so be prepared. Getting the axle in and out is 80% of the work involved, replacing the boot isn't that hard. Find a How-to for removing the axle to see what tools are needed. Specifically changing the boot also requires a small flat head screwdriver to removing an internal metal ring (about the width of your fist) from the inside of the CV joint housing. That allows you to pull out the race/bearing attached to the shaft. Be careful to not let any of the bearings roll away. Now whip off all the old grease form all the components, taking a mental or literal picture of how to assemble it all again. This gets messy fyi so have paper towels and disposable gloves. To separate the bearing race from the shaft requires using an external circlip pliers (search "Tekton" in Amazon) to removing a retaining ring. Slide the crimp and boot on the shaft and reassemble the whole thing with the new grease. The instructions tell you where to put it, but basically cover all the metal so it doesn't touch other metal, glopping as much grease around the bearings as you can. Use all the grease in the packet. It will move around to where it's needed when you start driving. Secure the boot by sliding both ends into the grooves for each lip, then using the metal crimps to secure it. Now reinstall the axle. I realize it's hard to visualize this all with only words, so see if a dedicated forum has pictures of the process.

Fits perfectly. Easy to install

Great Buy fits perfectly..highly recommend

The boot was fine and exact fit for Corolla LE 2011. However, the claps are bad quality. I barely was able to put the big clamp and the small one snapped right aways. The local part stores didn’t have clamp so I had to improvise and use water hose clamp as a replacement.

this is the inner boot for a 2006 Mazda 5, driver side. also got the outer boot. removing the axle is an involved job, requiring a few special tools. to start with, you need to remove the axle nut, which requires a large socket, breaker bar and very long extension handle. then comes tapping in the axle shaft on the hub. then separating the axle from the transmission. if you are lucky, you can do that with a pry bar, but more likely you will need a fork and slide hammer as i did. then you need a bearing puller to separate the tripod from shaft. while you are at it, recommend replacing the oil seal on the transmission output shaft. in my case, the boot needed replacement at 125K miles, and reusing the oil seal resulted in a leak. so i had to pull the axle again and replace the seal. save yourself the hassle and replace the seal for an extra 10 bucks.

Just as I ordered

No quedo en Toyota sienna 2007 es muy chica

Was easily able to replace my leaking outer cv boot with this product. Grease came included. 10/10 these guys are awesome

Écrit dans la description " sans démonter le cardan "ce qui est totalement faux ! Le soufflet n est pas splitter doit obligatoirement retirer le cardan

Très bien