NOYITO AC to DC Precision Buck Power Supply Module AC 120V 100V-264V to 12V 500mA Isolated Step-Down DC Module (12V 500mA) Green

Works great, exactly as described

I'm using this to power a digital volt/amp meter display in a dim bulb tester (DBT) I built to test old tube radios, which needs a minimum of around 8vDC in order to turn on. Because I'm also using a variac before the device I built in order to limit AC voltage going out of it, I had concerns over this power supply listing a minimum of 100vAC for input so I went through the trouble of adding a DC input jack to the circuit as an alternative power source for the digital display when using the variac at low voltages. While I don't know what DC voltage this device puts out at only ~20vAC (I haven't tested that), I do know that it's enough to power the meter display that I'm using. For my intended usage, I didn't even need to add the DC input jack in my DBT design, but that's okay because it'll come in handy if I ever want to use my device to monitor current draw on lower AC voltage devices. Been using this power supply a lot in the past couple weeks and it's been doing great so far. Very happy with it!

Works great for the price it easy to replace the whole board than change the bad compasators. This is what you need for your Neptune apex controller when your outlets stop working.

Part came as described and the installl was fairly easy. It solved thie issue in my energy bar.

Nicely packed, neatly assembled robust switching PS. A great replacement for the crappy, ever-failing Definitive Technology W7 powered speaker power supply (see 3 burnt ones in photo). IMO & experience quiet enough for Class D speaker amp use. It needs extension in length to fit W7s mounting holes (it’s a tight fit @ bottom/24v out) plus adaptation of AC in + DC out jacks. I also added push on/off switch as these Definitive Tech PSs are always powered. This PS is best one I’ve located for this application and inexpensive too. BTW I’ll try to do full write up on this somewhere sometime soon.

I have a Neptune Apex Energy Bar 832 that stopped working. After doing some searching I found this power supply was the problem. Removed the old board, soldered in the new one and it works perfectly. The symptoms I had with the EB832 The individual plug lights would come on but when you turn the plugs on and off through the Apex dashboard or Fusion, the plugs wouldn't energize and you would not hear the "click" sound of them turning on. Takes some basic soldering skills to remove the old board and install the new one but it's fairly easy and there are several good videos if you search for them Sure beat sending it in for a repair and paying well over $100 dollars, plus the shipping costs.

So the schematic thay comes with this device leads you to believe that its a normally open (NO) sensor. Its not. Its normally closed (NC). When no power is passed, its self powered and thus (off), circuit is (NO) When power is supplied but not the trigger current, the device switches to (NO), then when current amount triggers the switch, its returns to (NC). Maybe its just me but this configuration is completely backwards. The switch should be open when off, open when powered and sensing, and then closed when tripped. Now the provided schematic makes sense. But the way this switch opperates the schematic is misleading and the overall opperation is backwards. I can only hope that anyone else who buys this device sees this comment and a few others like it and knows that this switch works correctly when it senses power required to opperate and just ignore the current trigger part. AND.. treat the switch in your design to be (NC) and not (NO) as the product suggests.

worked 1st time when I replaced the failed one. No issues.

excellent product great way to step 110ac to use in my 12v products