[Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal V6 Bowden Extruder Hotend for 3D Printer - 24V /1.75mm Filament / 0.4mm Nozzle.

I replaced a generic hot end with this and am very pleased.The build quality is excellent and it is easy to build. There are no instructions but plenty are available on You Tube.Printing with this is much smoother now and easy.I love the way the cooling fan mounts over the cooling vanes. It directs the cool air exactly where it needs to go. The fan is also very quiet, much quieter than the fan on my generic hot end.I would suggest buying extra parts and tips ahead of time so they are available when you need them. I have extra tips in various sizes and a couple of extra head covers.I set my firmware (Marlin 1.1.9) to thermistor type 11 since they state that the thermistor is an NTC3950. I will use a heat probe and check the calibration and adjust the table later. But for now, it is running flawlessly printing PLA.I would definitely buy this again.UPDATE Dec 16, 2018I bought a second V6 hotend and when I received the package the silicone sock was missing. I contacted the seller and they responded within a couple of hours and sent me a sock in the mail.The second V6 is as good as the first and customer support for even a very minor discrepancy was excellent and I will buy from Gulfcoast Robotics (via Amazon) again. Look up their web page, they have quite a few 3d printer parts for sale.

Update:Initially I was a little unhappy that I had so much clogging with this hotend and took it off my printer. Then I found some PTFE lined heatbreaks from another seller here on Amazon. I tried them with this hotend and my clogging problem was solved. The heatbreak I substituted for the one that came with this hotend is nothing fancy except that it has a short section of PTFE that starts at the end that butts up to the nozzle in the heat block and extends up maybe half way into the heatbreak. I imagine that it probably goes all the way to where the bowden tube stops or something like that. With PLA on my little printer it works great and the heater on this hotend is much more powerful. It heats faster and holds temp extremely well. I did a PID calibration immediately after installing this on my printer and I strongly recommend others do the same. Anyway, although its not "all metal" it works and its much better than my stock hotend. I gave another star just for the heck of it. My next experiment with this will be PETG. We'll see how that works.Original review:So a bit of backstory... My older Monoprice MP IIIP Mini was struggling to maintain 200C when printing with PLA. I wasn't sure if it was the thermistor, the heater cartridge or both so rather than replace just those parts I decided to upgrade to a full (not Lite) E3D V6 clone. I wasn't going to spend $60 on a real one since I only paid $60 for the whole printer. Also, I wasn't having much luck finding nozzles for my stock hotend since is used a partial PTFE liner between the heatbreak and the nozzle so the nozzles had to have an ID large enough to fit the PTFE liner. I thought this was causing me some other print quality issues so again, replacing the whole hotend with this Gulf Coast clone should do the trick right? Well, not really. After changing out the hotend with the new one I started having clogs. Not real bad ones but enough to fail the print mid-way. I played with retraction settings and heatsink fan placement and tuned my PID and still no luck. I would get clogs with retraction turned off in Cura so I knew it was not that. I had read warnings about the roughness of the finish of the Gulf Coast clone heatbreaks and just wanted to see for myself. I honestly can't say for sure that is the problem but I'm not going to try and cook out all the melted PLA out of the all metal heatbreak to find out what the finish is. I decided that keeping the heater block, the thermistor and the 40W heater cartridge in place should be fine and swapped my old heatbreak (the PTFE lined one) and heatsink back in to the hotend. Problem solved. Also, the new heater cartridge performs much better than the Monoprice stock heater (probably a 25W cartridge based on the slow, unstable heating). I'm only giving 3 stars since it is apparent that for me to make their product work I would have to but a $20 polished titanium heatbreak and that is just BS.So, there it is. I should have listened but didn't.

The fan on mine was broken and customer service was awesome about it.Although I used the Petsfang Mount on a Tevo Tornado and used a Bigger fan, This completely isolatedthe heat block and I have had NO issues in 100 Hours printing....I will by another for my MMSP machine.

I purchased this due to my original hotend repeatedly clogging even after Capricorn tube install and a mks gen l upgrade, the install wasn't too bad but required 3d printed parts for the Ender 3. this normally wouldn't be so bad but after 3 tries i managed to print a mount with no clogs. It was nice having everything provided at such a low price, i ended up immediately having a clog though. to rectify what seemed to be a rough finish on the throat, i replaced it with a microswiss titanium heatbreak. After upgrading this now the hotend fails to reach temp almost every time even without the fan on. UPDATE: I tried their microswiss clone instead and it works much better

Edit:Things are even more weird now. I've checked the thermistor output using a multimeter and got basically the output that thermistortemps in Marlin firmware indicated for the tempurature shown on my machine. So then I bought a tempurature indicator from Amazon (Proster Digital Thermocouple). Now things are strange. I've been trying to get a correct reading but the indicator I bought didn't even tell me what thermistors came with the package. So I guessed and I'm getting weird results. After about 250C (311C on the indicator) temps get whacky, I can increase and nothing happens. It looks like I can print PETG because I didn't want PLA in the head as I moved to higher temps and PETG moves well at 311, but nothing there maps well. I don't know if what I'm working on will make a difference. I'm going to buy an E3d and compare.Turned on the machine to heat and tighten the throat to the block and found it was -27C, system faulted of course for a runaway and so I checked the thermistor with a multimeter. The hotend I was replacing this with (this is 24v and the other was 12v) showed 100k resistance and this showed 60k.I'm not an electrical engineer so the title may be wrong but, the results are pretty clear, had to change the thermistor for this to work properly.Everything else is fine.