Monterey Liqui-Cop All Natural Fungicide For Disease Prevention - Pint LG3100, Brown/A

Great fungiside with copper for all garden vegtables! Works fantastic!

This stuff worked, even though we waited too long (started applying to a peach tree for leaf curl in mid feb, when it should have been done a few weeks earlier). Got in two sprays (1 week apart), and some of the swelling buds were even starting to sprout (pretty much against the directions that assured good results). It worked anyway, all kinds of leaves, NO leaf curl. (Even without spraying the trunk, which we didn't know we were supposed to do as well)

I have a bunch of potted plants on my deck in the Pacific Northwest. My roses always get black spotted and dying leaves. This year we got a couple of azaleas, one of which went straight downhill while the other one was OK. I have tried this on both plant types, and while it didn't save the nearly dead azalea, the roses and other azalea seem happier for several weeks after I use it. It seems to need re-application every couple of weeks on roses to prevent further infection, but so far it's working.

Prevented leaf curl on my peach trees!I applied it when the tree was budding and this stopped 98% of the leaf curl. I wish I had known about this product the year before because I lost all my leaves to the curl. This year only a few leaves got it and it surely was ones I must not have hit with the spray.Using again early summer to prevent diseases.

Helped save several of my tomatoes plants. Does leave a copper orange tint on your hand, so just be careful/wear gloves

I purchased Liqui-Cop to try and stem the tide of Septoria Leaf Spot on my tomato plants. We never needed to use a fungicide before. Typically neem oil and soap are all that was required to keep plants healthy. It was very wet this year in the northeast and every tomato plant I saw was hit hard by this fungus.At first I mixed it at the concentration recommended for treating blight, and sprayed it on my uninfected tomato plant leaves as well as removing infected foliage. After a few weeks of this, I didn't notice any improvement. I was still having to remove newly infected leaves as the fungus spread up the plants. I ended up eventually tripling the concentration. That seemed to have an effect at stopping the fungus. This concentration was more than I was comfortable using and was causing leaf damage itself. I stopped using it and resorted to simply pruning infected leaves regularly. With that method I was able to get fruit until the end of the season. By that point the 70% of the leaves on the tomato plants had been lost.My experience has been this product does work on Leaf Spot if you drastically increase the concentration, but it will likely harm the tomato plants at that dosage and put excessive copper into the soil. Leaf Spot for tomato plants isn't listed on the product label for Liqui-Cop, however copper fungicides are about the only known method of control, so there's no reason it shouldn't be. Next year I'll attempt applying this fungicide earlier, before any problems arise.

I made a gallon from 2 tsp, sprayed and soaked my peach tree from top to bottom in February. The flowers came and went and the leaves are sprouting healthily without the usual fungal attack. The bottle is going to last a lifetime if I am going to just spray the one and only peach tree.

Amazing turn around on my case of fireblight. We have a "Redspire" pear that was hit hard over the middle of the summer. Applied a very heavy coverage of this product, against advice on the time of the growing season, and wow what a turn around. Almost instantly halted the decay and within a week or so of the next soaking rain saw new growth of both the branch and leaves at the previous points of serious decay. One application and I believe my tree was saved as we have had a number of neighbors loose their Bradford Pears over the last year or so to blight.