2Pcs Extra Large Reusable Epoxy Resin Table Mold15.7x9.8x3 inch 11.4x7.5x2 inch Rectangles Epoxy Resin Molds for River Table, Coffee Side Table, Cutting Board, Charcuterie Board, Art Panel

For me I'll take these over the flimsy silicon molds any day. They work well especially using mold release, just like the silicon ones. They hold their shape and don't bow out especially on the larger molds. They are flat and have a few degree angle that aids in resin removal. They are also much more affordable and durable.

This are made sturdy and I would definitely recommend them

I used the small one and it worked ok. Trying to use the larger one and it has a slight angle around the bottom that will not allow you to push the up on the ends and sides had to put a spacer board around the sized to keep from linking epoxy out. Make sure the mold is flat and level before you pour.

This simplifies the process of.. cutting.. screwing.. and sealing all the seams.. in past melamine mold building...It does limit you to one size... but that one size.. is worth building one. the same size.. out if melamine...

This is pretty easy to use and reuse. I'm up to at least 6 cycles so far and I'm sure I'll get much more out of it, maybe a lifetime. I use the form for live edge joining, so the majority of the form is filled with wood and the minority with epoxy in my applications. There are a couple of things to ensure the form works great: First, always spray one some mold release. I've never forgotten yet, and have had zero issues getting it out after curing. Most of the time, I don't even need the rubber mallet. Second, you'll need a good solution to hold down your wood so it doesn't float when you pour the epoxy. If you just try to clamp the wood down in a couple places, the base of the form will warp a bit leaving you a lot of effort to get your product flat after the epoxy cures. This is the reason I subtracted one star in the rating. I overcame the issue by cutting a 3/4" thick piece of MDF to the same size of the form, placing the MDF under the form, and clamping the wood down using the MDF as a flat reference. This is easy to do if I raise the MDF up under a couple of short 4x4's. I also level the whole thing with small shims or popsicle sticks so the epoxy levels out. If the form was thicker in the base, I might not have needed the MDF. But then the price might have been much more and MDF isn't very expensive. You can use anything that is stout and flat, but unless you like a lot of sanding or own a big planer, you'll want to put something under it!One other annoyance others have noted: The base and the walls of the mold are slightly curved where they meet. So if you are trying to get a 90 degree joined piece of wood flush to a wall, you can't. I found I can easily overcome this issue by using a 1/8" roundover bit on a router on any edge of wood I want flush to a wall of the mold. I have a router table so it really doesn't take much time and saves epoxy.

Easy to use! Good quality!!

Not flexible like I thought they would be, but they worked. Sprayed mold release and poured deep pour epoxy. After cured, used included hammer to release project. Came out fine. For price compared to others I’m pleased. Would recommend.

These molds have been great. I used mold release spray in them before pouring the epoxy and my boards fell right out when it was time. No prying or chipping. The molds are smooth and even give a nice edge.