Quartet Magnetic Glass Dry Erase White Board, 48''W x 36''H Whiteboard, Infinity Frameless Mounting, White Surface (G4836W)

I recently bought and installed this whiteboard, and I wanted to provide some feedback on some apparent improvements Quartet has made for customers.First, Quartet provided a large "template" sheet for marking hole locations. I say "template" because it doesn't have preset mark points. You still have to lay the whiteboard over the paper and mark the centers.Special note, when marking the center, the true center, use additional lighting to cancel out the shadows. This is a recess, so light from a side will cast a shadow and make it look like center is in a different place. Even a phone LED camera light will do well for mobile lighting to find the actual center.I marked my holes and taped the big paper to the wall. I used nothing else to align or check fitment and just YOLOed it. When you tape, make sure you spend the time to level it and have it nice and flat. I taped the 4 corners plus the 4 centers and made small adjustments until I was happy.I drilled 7/32" holes through the paper, then removed the paper, and installed the drywall anchors provided.Two, the drywall anchors appear to be improved. These are the same style but appear to be a heavier duty version, metal I believe. Past reviews showed white plastic anchors. Mine were silver and appeared to be a cast metal of the same "screw" style of anchor. It went in well, no complaints.Three, there were complaints about the threads being bad. Quartet shipped the mounting hardware threaded together. I don't know if this is how it's normally shipped, but this choice does mean someone is hand threading and checking the threads during final assembly. This might be a choice to self QC these parts by forcing pre-assembly at the factory. When I got my parts, I had to unthread the two metal halves. The threads seemed good and worked fine with no anti-seize required.Final thoughtsSo how'd I do? Well, I just went for it just to see how things would turn out. It turned out good. Everything aligned well, assembled easy, and I can't really complain. It was not a hard one person job and all of 10 minutes of work. It probably took longer to unpackage than install, and the only thing that took time was taking some care to mark the true centers and to lay the big paper on the wall well.Alignment optionsLet's say you mess up a little bit. What are your options for alignment? There is a small amount of wiggle room in two places. There is some wiggle room in the hole for the small, long screw going into the drywall anchor. You should be able to loosen this and move the metal cylinder part around a small amount side to side to gain a small amount of extra clearance if needed. It's not a lot of play, but it's some. There's also a little bit of wiggle room in the hole of the whiteboard, so the whiteboard does have a little play in the design. Combined, it might be able to compensate + or - 1/8" or so.For the most part, just take your time marking the center well and use a secondary light source that you can move around. This will probably take care of most of the fitment problems people have. Also spend time getting the paper nice and flat, both underneath the whiteboard when initially marking centers and when taped on the wall. Take a little time at both these steps, and you should be golden. Even for me not really taking any additional steps, I was probably within a 1/16" of center to center between the worst two holes (bottom left, top right) for alignment relative to each other's ideal.Is the whiteboard any good?Yea. It's got a metal back for magnets, but the magnets need to be strong to also have enough strength through the layer of glass. Magnetic strength drops off fast relative to distance away, so layer of glass means powerful magnets are needed. As long as you're aware of that, great. The stock Quartet stuff works good. If you get aftermarket magnets, just look for higher strength stuff. That's it.The glass is of course nice to write on, so it's too functions well. It's hard to complain about a glass surface, aka why I bought this one.The slight 3D effect from the glass layer and the white backing is neat/interesting. Good or bad? I don't know. The whiteboard still functions well.The hardware that came with the whiteboard is certainly decent enough for the price point. I would not expect more, so it's perfectly acceptable for the price and ultimately looks good and a little upscale.The packaging is ok. There was plenty of use of foam on all sides and in the corners. The glass whiteboard arrived in good shape. I can't say if it'd ever take a real fall or toss, but the outer carton is clearly labeled "glass," so hopefully it's handled well enough. Mine was.Nothing was missing on arrival.Instructions were simple enough to follow and had enough information to where I was not questioning anything. I'm a poor use case though. I'm already pretty handy, so this is kind of eyes closed stuff for me. But the key bits of information like what drill bit size was readily found in seconds. No complaints.

The board is beautiful, and we bought the 6X4 which has 6 mounts. It's very heavy and is a 3 person job minimum to install (don't even try with 2, it's not worth the risk of dropping). I followed the review by John B. Hartleb, who explained some tips on how to install, and took a lot of his tips in mind to install the board. Here's my findings and some tips from installing it in our conference room.1. 3 people - 2 to lift, one to mark the wall and drill.2. Pro tip: get a table and stand it against the wall. Use a level to get the table level as possible. To get the height right, use 12 packs of soda to rest the board on so your 2 buddies won't get tired, and the board will still be perfectly level! (see pic) (the blue tape is to catch the dry wall when drilling so as not to make a mess)3. One the board is lined up with the wall, mark the top 3 center holes to drill, then move the board away. Drill with a 11/64" drill and the anchors will go in perfectly into the wall. The screw in the 3 back anchors. Then have your buddies hold the board up as you screw in the top anchors for the top 3 anchor holes.4. Top anchors: John's review said to lubricate, but this was not necessary. If you need a little more torque I put blue painters tape on the top of the top anchors to get some more leverage to turn them. This made it way easier. Don't turn too much as you're literally screwing into glass. Just tighten until it's snug.5. Now the board is hanging by the top anchors only and the bottom is free swinging. You can get rid of the table and cases of soda to continue the remainder of the installation. Lift the bottom edge of the board so it's about the same distance away from the wall as the top. Mark the direct center of the hole in the wall (don't get lazy about lifting the board because if you mark the hole when the bottom is closer to the wall, the center won't be dead center and your anchors will be off). Now drill the holes and repeat installing the anchors.6. Bottom anchor points: so as you will need a little bit of play, install the bottom anchors first for all 3. Once they're all aligned up and poking through the board, then screw in the tops anchors. Now you're done!Other notes: like others said the magnetic surface on this because of the thick glass vs. thin iron sheet requires to have VERY strong magnets to have anything stick on. As you see in my first pic, There is a dry erase cubby and dry erase erase that are magnetic that are on a metal rail. These did not stick on the board. The board comes with 2 very strong magnets so you can hold up paper on the board. I guess if you want more, you will have to order from Quartet.Dry erase markers: The pen that the board came with is really high quality stuff. We have other dry erase pens from "that brand that everyone associates with" and on glass it's a little wet. Note if you try to erase it while it's "wet" it will streak and be hard to wipe with a dry erase eraser. It's much easier to erase after it's dried. If you do have issues because you tried to erase it while it's wet, the good news is that because it's glass, a simple wet paper towel will wipe it right off, no ghosting!

Looks great, sturdy, high quality, and not too difficult to install.Like other reviewers, I recommend using the cardboard box to create a template of the board, tracing out the hole locations, so you don't have to hold the heavy board in place to mark the holes. In addition, I recommend drawing a straight line between the center of the top two holes and using that line to level the cardboard.My only complaint is that 1 of the 4 anchors fell through the drywall as I tried to tighten the screw on the standoff, leaving a 1/4" hole in the drywall. That was super easy to fix, just by backing out the screw and buying a toggle bolt at Home Depot. I used at 3" long x 1/8" toggle bolt, and just pulling back on the offset while screwing eases the screw into the toggle and opens it up. I would suggest to actually start with the toggle bolt instead of the plastic drywall anchors since it's easy to make tiny adjustments to the position in case the holes don't line up perfectly the first time, and it should hold a lot more weight.Like others, I noted that some markers barely mark the board. For example using my pack of thin expo markers, the Red marker hardly marks the board at all, but in the same pack, purple looks pretty solid. I'll experiment with a few marker types, but I don't think it will be a problem.[Update: Bought a third board, and after accidentally breaking one of the stand off posts (with a hammer), I was able to get a hold of their customer support and they shipped me out a new set of posts for free. Also, don't use a hammer.]