Jin&BaoUniversal Garage Door Threshold Seal Strip, Bottom Weather Stripping Replacement Rubber Waterproof 20 FT Length（Blue）

We just had the first tropical thunderstorm for Southern california and when I heard the weather forecast for it I rushed to buy one of these. The reason being, that our garage constantly gets water leaking underneath the garage door, halfway into the space every time it rains. The previous owner didn't take good care of the garage door trimming or concrete floor seal so I decided to DIY this one myself. I ripped out their old and useless previous stuff. First I purchased the top garage door rubber hose/base trim from Lowes. (Your basic T edge rubber tubing for the metal rail tracking of the door base). I found some tips that if you purchase WD 40 silicon spray lubricant, that it makes it easier for a solo person to easily pull the new rubber across the tracking rail themselves. So I did and it worked great! after the separate top rubber seal install, I then installed this guy for the concrete floor. The tips in the reviews were more than helpful to make sure I was able to (a) do it myself and (b) do it right the first time. Thank you fellow reviewers for your tips!So I first power washed my concrete floor edge so it was free of all gunk and dirt. This of course helps the adhesive I was about to place, actually stick well. Then I cut a piece of this threshold seal strip off that I wasn't going to need and used that shorter piece to measure and mark off sections at a time on my floor, where the trim would soon be laying down. This took a long time but worth it. I used a sharpie to draw lines around the edges of where the rubber seal was going to be placed. Constantly lowering my garage door to test and see if the newly added top tube seal would sit flush with this guy. Then after making my markings, I went ahead and grabbed the full strip this time, aligned it to my sharpie markings and to test before glueing. I again - closed the garage door one more time to make sure my top rubber tracking seal sat flush with this bottom seal strip appropriately and into the curve. I made a few minor adjustments to the rubber placements in certain sections by marking new sharpie lines here or there and then I was finally ready for the permanent glue down. I used the LOCTITE PL 3 X PREMIUM as some reviewers noted. I first put this loctite caulking close to (not on) the edges and then did zig zags in-between those edges. Then I slowly pressed the rubber seal sections one chunk at a time (remember I was doing this all by myself), with the remaining seal waiting to be set next thrown over my shoulder as I pressed sections at a time onto the caulking and making sure I was following my sharpie lines. Luckily you have time with the glue to make adjustments and slide around the rubber slightly before committing to the positioning. After the whole rubber seal was fully laying on the glue and aligned, I slowly walked on it, making sure it didn't accidentally slide around the floor underneath my shoes and making sure it didn't accidentally misalign. After walking on it and readjusting here or there - I put some heavy rocks and bricks on sections of it to keep it weighted as it dried. While I waited for the glue to do its thing, I had some extra Sika Flex caulking left over from my other house projects and put a bit at the edges/end of my garage seal/wood trim where water could get in to prevent water from rolling back in. after about an hour I closed my garage door so the weight of the door could continue the setting process from there. Relieved to report the large rain pour that weekend never got in, the inside floor stayed dry and this worked like a charm! Thank you again reviewers for your excellent tips and tricks.

During the spring thaw, water runoff can be high enough to make it through the garage door seals and annoyingly settle on the garage floor, accumulating around 1/8"-1/4" several feet into the space. This threshold seal mates well with the door seals and is enough to prevent water ingress. I used Gorilla construction grade adhesive to fix to the concrete floor and after the first winter, spring and summer, everything is still firmly attached.

These was easy to install an works great keeping water out of my shed

So we installed this floor seal on our garage and it was very simple. We used a gorilla glue construction adhesive to get it attached to the concrete. We cut it with a box cutter. And bam. That was it. And it does reduce the amount of crud we get in the garage, BUT! You need need need a matching good seal on the bottom of the garage door itself if you want perfection. We haven't replaced the one on our door so there is still some visible openings.

Fixed my leaky garage door issue . Was a bit of a pain to install . Do it on a warm day . Roll the thing out flat in the sun and let it get soft . Take your time and measure , cut and glue down .

Does exactly what it's supposed to do.

It’s a little fiddly to fit, but works perfectly when installed, creating a nice seal to my double garage door.Make sure you thoroughly clean the area where you’re installing, lay it out flat, cut to size and glue down.I left it out in ghe hot sun to soften up and remove the kinks, and used a large tube of gorilla glue for caulk guns.

I bought the 20' roll. Plan on cutting about a foot off one end to throw away. When it rolls up tight, you can't quite get the end to lay flat. Installation. I have seen many pics of people posting their finished product. The ones that say it doesn't keep all the water out is because they installed theirs incorrectly. This product is easy to use and works perfectly.So I am going to tell you how I did it. First, cut 1' off the end you will not use because it won't lay flat. Try and straighten best you can. Bring the rollup door almost all the way down. Try to get it down to 1/4" from touching the floor. You want to see light on the other side. Now place the 1' weather strip in the middle of the door and put the longer side under the door. The big yellow line should butt up against the garage door seal. See how it seals in pic 3? (Some people put the yellow line directly under the main seal, THIS WILL NOT SEAL. Your BIG yellow line needs to be on the inside garage portion of the seal on the bottom of the door. See pics 2 & 3. My pics are from the inside.). Now that you can see where the Threshold Seal Strip will be placed, use a sharpie to mark the spot. Move it down a foot and do it again until you have a line from one end to another. You will no longer need this 1' cut. Throw it in the trash. Now grab your roll and start measuring. You are ready to cut your length.The glue you want is equivalent to liquid nails. It must be able to stick to concrete and rubber. It must also be usable for under water applications. Use only the best premium. The difference is $6 vs $12 a tube. This is NOT the time to be frugal or cheap.Correct placement is as seen in my first photo. Second photo shows the garage door seal coming down. Third pic shows the seal in place in front of this threshold strip. 4th pic is the glue I usedWe just had a major storm and not a drop of water made it under the door. Before my shop would tend to flood.REMEMBER, DO NOT put the big yellow line down the middle! Your garage door seal should lay between the yellow lines. I'm going to say it again, Your garage door seal should lay between the yellow lines.

ガレージ入口の水の侵入を止めるために良い方法はと色々探しました。やっと見つけたと注文しました。実際の設置は、防水タイプのブチルテープを使いましたが、簡単に、確実に設置できました。下地の清掃は大切だと思いますが、時間のかからない作業なので苦にはなりませんでした。実際に水で試してみましたが、全く問題なく驚くほどです。

Prodotto di qualità arrivato secondo i tempi stabiliti.Voglio precisare che la soglia è lunga esattamente 20 piedi, cioè 6 metri.Nella descrizione del prodotto c'è scritto che la striscia è lunga 20 metri: è falso!

Our new house had chronic water infiltration through both our garage doors every time it rained due to the slope of the foundation which is irreparable. This product was referred to me by my contractor and it has solved my problem. It comes coiled but it is flexible enough that it unrolled and sat flat immediately, well, except for maybe the last foot or so but this was long enough that I was able to seal both doors with plenty length to spare. The issue is install. It can go awry pretty quickly once you start adding adhesive so be prepared in advance. Sweep, blow, wipe, power wash and dry the area you're applying. MUST be perfectly clean. Same with the rubber strip. Make sure it's wiped clean. Most adhesive products either don't recommend for use with rubber or don't mention rubber specifically in their substrate materials list. The only one I could find that specially included rubber was FUZE-IT by Liquid Nails Model #LN-2000C. Amazing stuff but more expensive than typical adhesives. Plan for about 3/4 of a tube per garage door. Lay down your strip under the garage door with the tapered facing the exterior. he garage door weather seal should nestle in to the rise of the strip. Leave enough to extend past the ends of the garage door by a few inches. I uses a length of 2x4 to get it straight. Then pencil a line the length of the strip on both sides for reference. Remove the strip and then start squeezing out your adhesive between the pencil lines. From experience a tight zig zag application pattern is best but try to stay a half in or so away from the pencil lines or the adhesive will seep out when you press down the rubber stip. I'll tell you for free, wiping off this adhesive from concrete is messy and almost impossible! Now the strip. FIND A FRIEND. Seriously. SO MUCH EASIER if you have a second person hold the coil of rubber strip and feed it to you as you lay and press it into the adhesive. Otherwise it goes everywhere and gets dirty and dusty, and potentially covered in adhesive. Once it's down go up and down its length pressing firmly everywhere. You especially want complete adhesive contact at the leading edge facing the exterior so after doesn't just get underneath it. Now you want to basically clamp it to the floor to cure. I used the same length of 2x4 lying on the strip lengthwise then put a sheet of plywood over it and spaced out a few 66lb bags of gravel. Closed the door down to the gravel bags and left it until the next day. After that you have to seal the ends. Water will simply travel down the length of the strip and run in to your garage. So grab a tube of exterior caulk and build up wall at either end. This took me two applications to get the desire height as some water still got in water the first try. With the second application I built up the height to the same max height of the rubber bump strip and ran a bead of caulk all the way out along the frame of the garage door opening. NO WATER. It has stormed a couple times since install and I'm happy to report I now have no water in my garage. FYI. I did one garage door per day so I could just reuse the installation materials on the second door. I applied all the knowledge I learned installing the first door, which I just shared with you, uninstalling the second it is much tidier. Good luck. Tedious but worth it!

I was tempted to purchase a cheaper product - but glad I didn't. This product is good quality and proved its worth during a severe down pour - no water in the garage.

I was sceptical at first but am really pleased with the results. To note, I purchase the longer version to make sure it covered all the way from frame to frame as others indicated they ran short! Glad I did as the product is unrolled the tighter portion of the coil won’t unfurl properly and needs to be discarded. Be sure to roll it out a few days before install, it’s a hard rubber, I put mine in the sun for a few hours and stretching a bit … take your time, patience is your friend. It gives a nice seal keep water out and stops air flow in the winter