G10 Garolite 3D Printer Bed Composite Build Plate Surface for PLA, PETG, ABS, and Nylon 235x235mm for Creality K1/ Ender 3 / FlashForge Adventure 5m / Anycubic Kobra

Love this build plate. As I do with all my G10 build plates, I scuffed it up with some scotch bright and then washed it good. Works well with PLA, PETG, TPU, and even ABS. In fact as long as the build plate is about 105C, ABS stays stuck to it very well and I can print without a brim and it doesn't pull up around the edges of the print. When the build plate cools, prints come free with no effort. This build plate is very solid, and doesn't bend, but it doesn't need to since prints self release. Very happy with it and I use it for all my printing in the X1C now. Unlike other G10 plates for the X1C this one is holding up to the high temperatures.

G10 plate...specifically designed for the current Ender3 (V3) series as well as the K1 series printers. It has the notches for the registration/placement screws on this series of printers. It will also work on OLDER Ender3's with the magnetic mount on the bed. Garolite is one of the more durable cheat-codes for 3D printing. It is grippy and only really needs bed prep for release agent use for most of the filaments. Use MagiGoo or Vision Miners' NPA for this. It'll be additionally grippy for things like Polycarbonate and it's the ideal print surface for Nylon/PPA- and will let you easily peel TPU off, etc. Smooth as glass. Scuff it up like you would a non-magnet plate G10 print plate and go to town. People will ask if this is worth it, etc. Depends. If you're printing Nylons and related, it's a major boost. If you're not printing crazy stuff (PA/PC/PPA/etc.) it might be slight overkill, but it won't have the coating lift up like a textured PEI plate can have happen. Taken properly care of, it will last you a LOT longer than most of the other plates. This isn't much more expensive than the simple pre-cut plates for the prior generations of Creality's printers, makes it plug-n-play out of box for your printer...what's there not to like. Was PLEASED when I unboxed mine...and the prints are just like my old G10 plate on my Ender3 v2 setup.

Why did you pick this product vs others?: Great build plate. The parts stick to the bed when heated and if you wait long enough for the bed to cool down after the print is finished, it just pops off. If your printing w exotic filaments, this is a must-buy!

I purchased this print bed because I’ve had issues with first layer adhesion with other surfaces and I needed reliability due to the large amount of objects I print at once. I’ve been very happy with the performance of this G10 bed and haven’t had many issues. The only reason I took off a star is because the one that I received has a chip in one of its corners. Other than that, it would have been 5 stars.

Not what I thought it would be. The picture shows a smooth black board. The one I got was gold textured made by Creality. It has a bunch of glue smeared on it , which suggest it has been used. This thing dose not look anything like what I ordered.

I was concerned with how thick the Garolite layer is on the plate as its much thicker than PEI build plate that comes with ECC printer, but the thick Garolite plate works fine with the Centauri Carbon which because it uses strain gages to sense bed leveling (and not a proximity sensor). I print with plain (no fiber) nylon. I told the Elegoo slicer the bed I was using was the side "A" PEI plate so first layer would not be squooshed too hard into the Garolite. Nylon prints perfect as a result. Sticks strong to the Garolite during the print, falls off the plate after its cooled.

TLDR: build plate is great if you get one that doesn’t have quality issues but too expensive to gamble your money on that. Ended up returning it.. Review & Reasoning: I’ve had this plate for almost 2 weeks and I’ve gotten one successful test print off on it. Spent many hours trying to diagnose what the issue was why I wasn’t getting good adhesion and was still getting warped parts, Between trying different filaments, both brand new out of the package and filaments I already had which was comprised of Petg, Petg-cf , Pla, ABS, ASA, & ASA-cf everything except for the normal PETG and PLA which were Polymaker brand the rest was Bambu filament. All were dried before printing with The ABS and ASA being actively heated while printing. Followed installation instructions and reached out to manufacture, which just turned me right back to the installation instructions of cleaning with warm water dish soap, and then wiping down with isopropyl, allowing to dry and buffing it lightly with a fine abrasive. Still no adhesion Tried heat soaking and bumping the temperature due to plate thickness slightly better, but could not finish a print, stopping very quickly after the first two layers due to quality or warping, Tried using bed adhesive got the layers to stick finally which is when I noticed the issue was the bed being warped in the G10 separating from the steel plate near the center left of the bill plate causing a bubble to form which was compressing the layer too much giving me terrible first second and third layer quality in the area Finally, I decided to print a full bed adhesion test, which showed me that about 38% of the bed from corner to corner with printable excluding the exclusion zone for bamboo print beds was unusable for anything that needed to be dimensionally accurate or carry any type of quality all the areas that weren’t warped printed flawlessly and gave me perfect first layers, but for the price that you pay for this build plate I cannot recommend it due to quality control issues and I know that I’m not the first that has had this issue with Lightyears build plate specifically. It’s odd that a build plate of this thickness and rigidity has this type of issue to begin with considering the price. And you can tell the quality of the steel is fairly decent has very good magnetism to the bed but the process they’re using to adhere the G10 to the steel seems to be the flaw I’ve decided to return the belt plate and purchase from another company.

I had a difficult time with Bambu's official plates when printing plate-sized parts. Shrinkage would cause the build plate to lift off the magnetic heat bed. This would result in bad print quality on the top surface that would collide with the nozzle. This G10 plate is SUPER stiff and greatly improved print quality. Some tips for you: 1. This plate barely bends and will snap hard in place when being placed on the heat bed. Use two hands and be careful with your fingers. If not, you are likely to get hurt. 2. G10/garolite is infamous for parts sticking a little TOO hard to the build surface (especially for PETG), resulting in damage to the plate when removing parts. I strongly recommend coating the surface with Nano Polymer Adhesive (from Vision Miner). When hot, NPA makes the parts stick more reliably to the build plate. But once the plate is fully (!) cooled down, it acts as a release agent, making it easier to remove parts. I believe this will save your frustration and you Lightyear build plate.