Nightlock Security Lock Door Barricade Brushed Nickel

This item has great potential to help thwart a brute force breaking on a door that cannot be otherwise hardened or even barred (like a decorative front door or french doors). The barricade is in itself pretty robust but as another reviewer noted, the installation hardware is lacking and suggested alternate installation instructions/methods that significantly increase its strength and very possibly its survivability during an attack. Here is what I noted.First picture: These are the felt pads that the original reviewer spoke about. Yes, they are available at Lowe'sSecond picture: The screw on the right is what comes with the kit. The one on the left is what you are going to replace it with. 3" #14 stainless steel flat head. You may have to do some digging around to find them. I know that my local Lowe's didn't carry them but your local Ace or True Value may.Third picture: We weren't messing around here folks. This is what I put on the 2x4's that went against the subfloor. Is it needed? Probably not but it isn't going to hurt.fourth picture: The reviewer used 2x6 because he had them around. I had 2x4's same-same. No need to go and buy pressure treat 2x6 if you have perfectly good (non skewed/warped) 2x4's in the garage. Measure and cut. You probably can see that I also "toe nailed" them to the joist. You can skip the adhesive but this is the bare minimum! (Note. In my installation, the plate didn't sit right at the floor joist so I needed to cut two 2x4's.)fifth picture: The money shot! I had some reflective tape in the garage so decided to mark the plate so when the emergency lighting comes on it will reflect off of it so you will remember to slide out the plate when you exit in an emergency as well as a reminder in normal lighting that the bar is on before you attempt to open the door. (we put it on when the house gets armed at night and pulled off when we dis-arm for the day)Installation notes: Nothing too difficult. line up where you want the barricade and use appropriate transfer punch to mark it. Use a small bit to drill the alignment holes and install the reinforcing sub boards. Drill the final pilot holes now all the way into the newly installed 2x4's. Put the base plate down and sink it. Tools? You will definitely need a drill/driver and if you have it, an impact driver with a #3 Phillips bit (It will make sinking those B.A screws so much easier!) I do not recommend that you hand drive these screws unless you enjoy that kind of punishment especially since you may wish to under size the pilot hole just a smidge. Really, its gonna suck!Final thoughts: will this item totally prevent your front door from failing during an attack. No way! Especially if something mechanized is involved (vehicle). Will it buy you precious minutes to call the police and decide if you are going to take shelter or defend? Most definitely! I can only imagine the racket this will make when someone is trying to mule kick the door. Its a relatively easy modification to your decorative front door that will give you extra time to make phone calls and plan your next move.

A floor brace is much stronger than a 2x4 door frame! Easy to install & use!

I was very concerned that this would not install securely on my backyard French door. One size fits all usually means it's going to be a problem. I was very pleasantly surprised when I placed it against my door and realized that it is engineered to install snugly against anything that could be considered a door.The included hardware is more than secure enough for any purpose. This is meant to stop a bash and enter break in. Longer screws or gluing the plate to the floor are adding nothing to the security. There is no way that the supplied screws are going to be ripped out before the intruder gives up or you hear the tremendous noise of someone trying to get past this thing. The supplied hardware is excellent.Installation is very easy. The design makes it very hard to install incorrectly. You just snug it up to the door, use an ice pick to mark the center of the center hole. Drill the 3/16" pilot hole into the mark. Screw in the center screw. Double check the alignment (it is not very fussy), then screw in the left and right screws. It is very difficult to do it wrong.A drill, an ice pick to mark the first hole, a 3/16" drill bit, vacuum cleaner (handy to remove wood dust), and an impact driver for driving the screws are all that I used. You could certainly screw this in by hand after drilling the pilot hole as well, but it is very convenient to have an impact driver to speed things up.That's it. I ordered a second one for the front door. When not in use it is inconspicuous. Guests are not likely to see much of interest. And when in use it's bedtime.Fantastic! Much better than I expected given the one size fits all designs.

Our sunroom, in back of the house, is the obvious target for The Big Break-in. The room has a medium-strength french door (two doors together, with no brace or wall between them), and its appearance seems to invite a bad guy to break it down. So we got a NightLock.The device installed easily. We used the screws that came with it, and the installation was easy, with our 3/4-inch hardwood floor.When we attempt to open the door from outside, there is a little slack at first. Then the door encounters an immovable object at its bottom (the NightLock). I ain't gonna be able to kick this door in. Even if I break the doors' glass, now what? It's strong glass, and I am not going to be able to penetrate before the owner has time to read America's Second Amendment to me. Our peace of mind has gone way up.I like that we can slide the slide with our foot, and we never have to bend over. The slide never comes out of the base, because we inserted a tiny stopping screw most of the way down into the 3/4" hardwood floor, forming an almost invisible stopper on each side. (Works great.)