Rust-Oleum, Black, 207006 Marine Topside Paint, 1-Quart, 32 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)

I used this stiff to paint the ‘hello 1960’s’ wall tiles on my bathroom. Underneath I primed with Stix primer which seems to really adhere to the tiles. Once it was dry I could not scratch it off with a fingernail so I assume it is a good base for this paint. Originally, I had issues with cratering when applying this paint and I was a bit hesitant to use it. But when I put on the first coat on a warm/hot, muggy day, no issues with a foam roller. One coat was not sufficient, although some folks might find it acceptable. For coat no. 2 I first scuffed the overnight dry paint with 320 paper, just enough to remove any lumps, bumps etc. Then I used a Mohair roller cover. Being bigger(regular diameter but 4” wide) it held a lot more paint and worked great. At first it took a few strokes to saturate the cover and there were tons of bubbles, but they all went away. This paint job had 80deg humid weather which I think was a plus. Slowed the drying process and allowed the paint to level nicely. Not glass like which might be attainable, but a very subtle texture which looks like its the way the tiles were made. And it is high gloss. We’ll see how it holds up over time but it looks great and a heck of a lot cheaper than a tile job. One caution. The stuff got old school VOC big time. I would not use it when you might have to keep a house closed up. I was thinking of spraying but I figured the masking, need for a respirator etc was not worth the effort. Overall, nice paint. It seems durable and we’ll see how ot works in a bathroom. I also painted the ceramic towel bar fixtures. They look like white smooth ceramic which I think was the result of brushing. To cut in edges I used the throw away chip brushes which worked fine. Not worth trying to clean an expensive brush with this paint

Painted my bathtub and tiles with this over a year ago and it looks brand new. I did two coats. Easy to use, very shiny and hard wearing. Can be slightly slippery but didn’t use the sand additive as I do not want to sit on pokey sand on the bottom of my bathtub and I would have had to add 2-3 more coats.

I am beyond happy with the results. I really need to replace the tub and surround in my kids’ bathroom, but I don’t have the time to get it done and don’t want things torn up. Anyway, I read reviews on this project and based off of the success others had using this for their tubs/showers, I have it a try. I used two coats (3 for the tub bottom) and had it fully painted in a day. It’s not a new tub, but it looks fantastic.I did a little repair with JB Weld fiberglass filler (the green areas in the before picture) and that was also easy to use and did what I wanted. I will do a little more work on the soap dish area when I have time to sand the fiberglass a little more.

This paint is not that finicky: It's just that all the other variables involved in painting with oil are that finicky. I opted for this instead of epoxy because of overall project-related costs. I generally dislike oil-based paint because of the fuss in applying multiple coats. Rust-Oleum 206999 Marine Topside Paint has good coverage & elasticity, (however when I chose to order more paint I found batches from certain suppliers were noticeably thinner, to where painting vertical surfaces became problematic). And I did hate the corresponding 'chalky' Topside primer & preferred cheaper, higher quality Zinsser.Bottom Line - Despite the torturous heat in which I applied this alkyd enamel & interim snafus, this is a well-perfected paint (from the creamier cans). I just pressure washed it after 3 weeks & it looks & cured great & is doing well in the damp coastal coolness where every night the dew rises to water the ground & substitutes for rain. --Happy camper in the land of boats, here, sporting 1 coat of primer & 5 coats of this paint atop. PS: Unless you're a pro, aim for 3 coats at most, sans primer, and that will keep a tight ship if you did your homework: fiberglass, degreasing & sanding. Or pay the price for epoxy; but this oil-based alkyd enamel which is a true 'oil' paint does not dry or catalyze: It cures. If done patiently, we will probably appreciate this beautiful, natural finish for a long time.(The one-star lacking is due to those 'thinners' out there who need to 'repaint' --Old joke with a serious quality case in point. It's good paint but consistency varied between suppliers to the point where you could not foam roller paint a previously 24 hour dried vertical fiberglass surface with paint straight from later ordered cans without viewing some drip formations after painting. C'mon! God forbid if I had added Penetrol to that, let alone thinner, so with those it was not an option. The creamy consistency cans (ordered through Home Depot) took up to 20% Penetrol fine & did both flat & vertical work without drip. But later cans did not. I'd previously read this complaint by another blogger somewhere & did not believe it until experiencing it for myself in orders I received late in the project. l ordered paints through Grainger, Home Depot, Jamestown & Amazon. Get the good stuff which is excellent or send it back.)

Pricey, but worth it. I have an outdoor table, live in sunny Florida, and have NEVER been able to keep it nice. Whatever I've used in the past has gotten toasted in the sun, lasting less than a year.This stuff appears to be MUCH more sturdy, and the finish is excellent.I'll report back in 12 months and tell you all if it held up.