Armor Concepts SET-EZA-22000 Entry Door, Aged Bronze

The one thing I did not do was remove the 2 original lock plates, I just carefully chiseled out the wood 1/8 " to inset them making them flush adding more strength.I also used 3 1/2 " screws in the door hinges.This is much stronger than before.Good product!

This unit, once installed will make your door much more resistant to anyone trying to break it down. And i couldn't find anything else that seemed better.However, for nearly $100 build quality should have been better- One of the units that goes over the door slightly bent- Screws and driver bit that come with it cheap, easy to stripAlso... my door jam had some really tough locations (don't know what wood I was hitting, but some locations were way too hard for the screws to penetrate without doing the pre-drilling the instructions say is necessary. The problem is you need to pre-drill a 9/64" hole and even if you have a 9/64" bit, normal bits aren't long enough for the screws. And 9/64" bits are obscure enough that your local hardware store is not likely to have a long one lying around. So... when ordering this unit I'd urge you to splash out another $3 and get a long 9/64" bit like this onehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2QYU2A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I definitely DO NOT regret this purchase. After installing, it would take a bull to knock the door in. I did have to do some chiseling to get the jamb guard to fit properly and the seal around the lock has small gaps now. Overall, super happy with the product and its value.

I am not going to try and kick my door in after installing this.......however I have no doubt it would be seriously more difficult after installation than before. It is not quite as intuitive as I first imagined (their way of going about this is better - duh, than I would gone about the engineering.) You don't need many tools but you do need the RIGHT tools. If you are going thru pine jams and pine framing wood then what they provide will more than likely work. They provide a T20 Torx bit that will probably hold up in pine. You need to provide a 9/64" drill bit and that bit needs to be able to drill a hole for a 3" screw (if memory serves). If you are dealing with hardwood framing or maybe yellow pine then their bit is not going to hold up, you will need at least one and probably 2 T20's. And you most certainly won't be driving that long a screw in by hand (easily at best).There can be a clearance issue on the latch side which they suggest can be improved by running the screws on that side tighter which will indeed help. However, I inadvertently found that tightening the screws on the hinge side picked me up even more space by pulling the door over that I now no longer had any clearance issues.Another aspect of this that I found beneficial is that once installed no one on the outside knows it is there! I decided to write this because I am on here getting ready to buy another unit.

Plain and simple it’s worth it!!