Briggs & Stratton31R907-0007-G1 500cc 17.5 Gross HP Engine with 1-Inch by 3-5/32-Inch Length Crankshaft Tapped 7-16-20-Inch

I am a do-it yourselfer and have a 2017 Troy-Bilt Pony that originally had a Briggs & Stratton 17.5 Power Built Engine after 6+ years of use and just after replacing the 42" Deck completely, the compression relief valve decided to break preventing the engine to start. So, I was faced with attempting to make that engine repair, (internally) for a new compression relief valve part (priced at $200 for the kit only), plus my time and risk finding additional internal damage to other internal parts or replace the engine entirely. After looking at the cost at new riding lawn mowers, plus the fact I already replaced the deck I opted to replace the engine. This Briggs & Stratton 31R907-0007-G1 500cc 17.5 Gross HP Engine installation was easy, providing you take your time and review YouTube videos prior to starting the job. I suggest you pre-tap the mounting holes with a 3/8 x 16 tap in order to reuse the self-tapping mounting screws. I had to use a utility propane torch to break the hold loose on the crank. I removed / re-used my original exhaust. Engine removal was easy, take photos of fuel lines, linkage and wiring just in case. New engine lined up and bolted right up. Had to remove the new muffler (1/4" Allen). Wire harness took some study. In my case I swapped out the wire harness for the fuel solenoid with my old harness so that the gray and black wire from the fuel solenoid and the black wire from the ignition coil would easily connect to my original connector. I clipped and re-used the connector from the red and black wire from the stator alternator to connect to the voltage regulator, red wire to red wire from voltage regulator and attached the black wire to the black ground wire on the voltage regulator. Did not have to do anything with the yellow wire. Attached battery (hot - red) cable to starter. Added 44 oz. of Briggs & Stratton HD30 Oil to filler tube. I kept my old dip stick because I liked the yellow color cap. Turned the key and it fired right up. Hopped on any mulched the leaves. No adjustments to the carburetor or linkage were required. Took me overall 8 hours by myself, (cautiously). Glad I did it. If your mower is over 6+ years old and the deck and transmission are in good shape I recommend swapping the engine. I also recommend that you consider replacing the upper and lower transmission drive belts if needed. Also suggest you also take apart and clean the steering linkage / gears while the engine is off. Hope this review helps.

Replaced original engine on an old 2009? LT2000. Almost plug and play. Runs great.

After reading other reviews I tapped the threads for the mounting bolts while the engine was on a workbench. With that done the engine bolted in, the drive pulley, fuel line and throttle wire were easily connected. The new engine's wiring connector(s) we're a bit different than the chassis so I used the old engine's connector to build a patch to the new engine, about a 30 minute chore after a trip to the auto parts store. The new engine runs great and added 1 HP to the mower. Thanks BandS.

Arrived in good time and condition. I replaced a 31F707-0112 E-1 engine from a 2001 or 02 Sabre 1642HS model. To repeat the other reviewer, it does fit but if you haven't performed this task before it takes a little researching but it's not tough.Take the plastic cover off the engine and leave off until everything (electrical too) is connected and ready to start.Need to reuse the old oil dipstick tube because of the fuel pump (which also needs to be reused from old motor along with the pump mounting bracket).Reuse the mounting bolts which are self-threading, something I wasn't aware of.Also, make sure you remove the muffler and extender and put the old muffler pipe back on. The new muffler fit under the cowling but it started to melt it due to how close it was.I had to use the old electrical harness but otherwise it was direct replacement.Make sure you put oil in it before you start it!All in all took a newbie a little longer but could it again much quicker.Well worth the value as the rest of the tractor is in good working order.

I purchased this engine to replace a blown engine in my MTD riding lawn mower.First, the good news. this engine was an exact fit, was an easy install, and started right up with no adjustments. As others have noted, the shipping box was damaged, but not the engine and the mounting bolt holes were not threaded. My engine was shipped with only minimal assembly lube/oil installed. I topped this off with fresh oil and ran for two hours before completely draining and refilling.Now the bad, the write up says that is engine has a regulated 9 amp DC alternator with no schematic or explanation of outputs.. It actually has a 28v AC alternator and a diode bridge to supply 14v DC current of 9 amps. This engine was listed as a direct replacement(on another site) and mechanically it is, but electrically it is not. My old engine alternator had two wires, one with a diode and one with 14v AC, The wire with the diode charged the battery and the other powered the headlights. The 28 volts from the new alternator promptly burned out my lamps. I chose to correct this by wiring my two lights in series instead of parallel as supplied by the factory. The alternate solution would be to purchase 24v lamps of the same wattage. The write up says there is a paper filter with a foam pre-filter. I did not receive the foam pre-filter. Also the muffler supplied does not match the needed configuration and I had to reuse the original muffler.I only have 6 running hours, but the engine starts easily and runs great, I knocked off a star for the poor electrical documentation and the missing part.

Fit perfect in a 2007 craftsman. I'm extremely happy. Thanks Briggs and Stratton 👍

My tractor