YAKIMA - Tracks 54 inch w/CapNuts for Roof Rack Systems

I wish they came with the t-nuts. If you're going to seal this properly, you need to get the tnuts added during installation... Otherwise you have to take out one of your sealed screws. Oh well, it works great

OK, first off I am a Yakima control tower fan. I had a car with factory roof rack that required me using this solution (Taurus X) and simply loved it. The landing pads stayed on the car and you simply drop the control towers with cross bars in. Bam - 2minutes and go. So we get a new car...Honda Pilot 2013...no roof rack. You can get a roof rack to mount to stock holes but there are issues for us. 1) Have to use the clamp over the bar style that are not as convenient 2) Our roof topper is older and does no adjust fore or aft. For the Pilot the Honda stock set up, our topper (which is long enough to hold skis) would stop the rear hatch from opening fully. So we wanted a solution where we can use all our old hardware and get the roof topper set in the middle of the car.So we ordered the 54" track for our existing control towers to drop into. Our old Ford tool the #3 sliders for the rail but this takes a slightly smaller sliders. I was able to hand grind our sliders to fit.Drilling into the roof of your car takes some guts, but it's that big of a deal. For the Pilot the raised portion next to the factory rack mount works great. There is steel below so no headliner concerns. I ended up with the Yakima capnut version which was OK as I had decided I would not use the PlusNut due to a few bad reviews. Instead we went with the RivNut approach and bought the metric tool and RivNut set. You have to lay out rail and mark holes. Use a small finish nail and make indents that will keep drill bit from drifting. Work up from a small bit to the size you need for the RivNut. Use the liquid gasket material to seal things up.One tip not covered elsewhere...the stock hardware for the track w/CapNuts is M5. A M5 bolt in the hole that comes pre-drilled is a lot of slop. I figured M6 is stronger so I installed M6 for mine. It turns out that slop is important as you may not be perfect on the installation of the PlusNut or RivNut. For the ones that I was not within "tolerance" I simply drilled out the rail some.For those concerned about bolt depth I would suggest 1inch for most and 1.25' for the front and rear to compensate for the end caps. For the Pilot depth turned out to be no big deal and I would use 1.25inch for all.Good luck!

Well made and milled but the hardware for the install could be better. Mounted it on my truck bed rails over my roll up cover hard to use sheet metal screws no way to make bolts work

I finally bit the bullet and ordered and installed this track on my Titan truck shell. I was really nervous about drilling holes in the shell but it came out great. You just have to take your time, measure and double check to make sure the tracks are the same width apart front and back and that they are centered. The part that almost messed me up was that fiberglass shells are not perfect. I initially measured from the bottom edges of the shell to figure out the center line of the shell but it turns out one side of the shell was slightly longer than the other side so when I positioned the tracks to mark the locations, visually I could see that everything was shifted closer to one side. Once I adjusted for that it was a breeze. Just have a helper on hand to tighten the bolts.Other than that I find it great to have the ability to adjust the spread between the bars as opposed to using the permanent landing pads and have a fixed spread between the bars. I can spread it to the ends for longer loads or bring them closed together for shorted loads like bike trays.

I wanted to add some rails to my truck bed to put my bikes and cargo topper up there, the only problem is I have a Truxedo Lo Pro QT soft tonneau cover, which goes around the edge of the side bed and prevents most types of bed rail systems, which tend to need to clamp around the top of the side bed. With these Yakima tracks, I was able to drill and screw them down on the top of the side bed (not an easy task with the tonneau cover in there, I had to space it right and had to leave some of the screws out).I then added Landing Pads and a Core bar. What's great, is that it is very easy to unclamp the Landing Pads and you can remove the entire bars in less than a couple minutes (given there is nothing attached). Then you can roll back the tonneau cover.Love this system!

The mounting screws are too short and therefore do not penetrate the camper shell. Had to buy longer ones from the hardware store, which had a large head making it difficult to install the Landing Pads - they can't slide over the heads of the screws. Also, it takes two people to mount the racks. If Yakima would have provided a second set of longer screws, I would have given this product a better rating. Yakima even informs you in the instructions that the screws maybe too short!

Put these on the bed of my truck and the supplied mounting system, would not work on a 2017 F-150 Pickup truck. I finally had to get #8 Stainless sheet metals screws to get it mounted. Solid and looks good but mounting would not work until I made it work.

I’m very satisfied with all aspects of this product. I might not have chosen Yakima due to the fact that Yakima it priced at the top of what is available in the rack world. I battled over the different brands available, and the price point, and decided on quality over price. You get what you pay for, I’m sure I made the right choice.My setup is on a camper shell, mounted on tracks. it’s mainly used for Kayaks and a canoe.