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The XINGYHENG 8A DC-DC Buck Boost Converter Module delivers adjustable voltage output from 1.25V to 30V with up to 8A input current and 20A peak output. Featuring dual heat sinks and synchronous rectification technology, it ensures efficient power conversion and reliable thermal management. Its durable nickel-plated and pure copper construction supports long-term use across a wide range of electronics and industrial applications.
Item Weight | 3.52 Ounces |
Item Dimensions D x W x H | 0.87"D x 2.09"W x 0.03"H |
Current Rating | 8 Amps |
Power Source | Battery Powered |
F**D
Runs hot, noisy
Like another reviewer said, this module runs hot. I had to mount a 50mm fan on top to run testing, and only up to 4 amps. Buck/boost performance looked normal with about a 30mv drop going into boost mode as the input voltage dropped. Had to adjust my scope to look at noise. It's usually in the mv range, but this ran over 3 volts peak to peak over the entire range of operation (17 to 10V input; 12.6V output). I bought and tested 4 different brands of buck/boost modules. The Jacobs Parts and the Drok both had far better efficency solving the heat problem (both use LTC3780 chips). The Drok has input and output filters included which dropped the noise to 130-180 mv over my operating range. All of this testing was done with a fixed 4A load. Don't expect to get power ratings from any of these modules as stated. These ratings are peak power and are typically twice the continuous power rating of the devices.
L**E
Very robust voltage regulation; but gets hot
I bought this buck/boost converter after trying several other unreliable converters (others failed to hold their output voltage steady under load, and/or dipped/spiked in voltage after power-on). This buck/boost converter seems to give a very robust and stable voltage output compared to the others, so finally my search is over.However, there's a good reason why there are two big heatsinks on this unit (and why I'm giving it 4 stars): it gets very hot to the touch, even when operating well under-spec. I'm dropping 29V input to 24V@1A, and I'm concerned about the temperature both heatsinks are reaching. I may need to mount a cooling fan.
A**N
An open circuit Fuse at start up, with no load attached.
I bought this device on Amazon, needed to use as a 18 Vdc power supply to an existing Circuit Board I have. I connected only the 12Vdc supply to the input/supply side, and tried to measure the output Vdc before I connected any more wires. No LED came on, no reading on my VOM. Disconnected Vin power, ohmed out the onboard fuse, was already open/dead.Reconnected my Vin, shorted across the fuse, and all works now, was preset by unknown to 24Vdc output setting.Lowered Vdc output to 18.5 Vdc by Cricut CV device, then tested under a small load, works when I bypass the Fuse.I am going to have to replace the soldered circuit board fuse that came mounted on this device.No time to wait weeks for repayment process.Very Disappointed.So, received a defective part.
M**0
At 1/2 to 2/3 rated output - not all use conditions draw/generate rated power
My intended application is to take the 13-15V+ from my car's electrical system and feed a constant 14.1V to a LFP battery for charging.The 4 terminal blocks are sized to barely fit 16AWG wire which is large enough for this supplies rating and my intended application.Using a bench supply set @13VDC I carefully adjusted the output voltage of this device. I found that I could change the input voltage from 6-20V and the output was stable @ what I had adjusted it to. (while lower than 6V caused major output drop off I did not try over 20V as I won't need that in my application)The interesting part came with trying to set the 'current limit' feature. While this device is rated at 8A my thought/idea/intention was to set it for ~6-7A (input current draw) as that would be compatible with the 10A fuse I have already wired in.After turning the 'current limit' adjustment +30-40T CCW (assumed all the way down) I attached the output to the make shift setup shown in the attached picture: inverter, LFP battery, soldering iron, lamp, current clamp and DVM.After turning the current limit adjustment CW a number of times I was able to get the module to draw ~4.4A/58W on the input. At this point no amount of CW turning would make the current draw higher.I did try increasing the input voltage which did not effect the input current and then decreased the input voltage. At ~6.75V I was able to get a peak input current of 4.8A. Any further adjustment of the current limit pot could only reduce this value.So at the end of the day what I have here is a DC/DC step up/down module that is good for ~60W in my application.I gave it 3 stars as I was hoping to get near the rated output from it in my application.
M**R
Doa
Ordered a month ago along with two 10 turn pots but after hooking it up nothing seems to work tried pressing soft key pads with no response. Should have tested prior to adding new pots. Screwed now I guess
A**R
Inefficient and bad regulation
For my application I tested 12v in, 6v out at various currents. This board could not sustain 5A load in these conditions. It started OK, but after a few minutes the temperature rose and the voltage dropped much lower. Similarly priced boards can do much better.Also, efficiency in this scenario was about 75% (terrible)
C**S
Thumbs up from this guy
Pretty straightforward terminals are labeled on the board and it provides a steady output.
M**N
perfect
Pc runs .. 2amp no sweat .. cool to touch17v is fine for laptop, less wattage less heat
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