PN-PCw Polycarbonate 1kg 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, White

After some initial frustrations dialing in this filament, I contacted the manufacturer who provided some tips and an MSDS sheet. The manufacturer was really quite responsive and helpful, clearly interested in ensuring that I had a successful experience. I've updated my review with my observations after more experimentation with this filament.Throughout this review I'm going to be comparing this material to PETG, even though it's a PC blend. This is because my primary printing experience has been with PETG, and my goal with this filament was to achieve better precision, better durability, and better temperature resistance than my PETG experiences.Hot end. I'm using a E3D V6 Hot End with Copper Heater Block, Titanium Heat Break, and 0.4mm Nozzle X. The Nozzle X is a hardened nozzle, suitable for printing abrasive filaments. It also has a nonstick coating, and I'm happy to report that this filament easily wipes off the Nozzle X at temperature.Bed surface. I'm using the Prusa PEI sheet, the regular one, not the fancy new powder coated one. My surface prep is exactly the same as I do for my PETG prints, using windex as a release agent. In general this has worked well, though I did tear out a 1mm square chunk of PEI from the sheet by getting impatient and pulling a print off before the sheet fully cooled. Make sure to let your sheet cool before removing the print.Filament diameter. I measured the filament diameter to range from 1.69mm to 1.72mm. This tolerance is fine but make sure to adjust your Slic3r settings accordingly.No Cooling Fan. I'm attaching a picture of a SirLayersalot that I printed at 60% scale with Slic3r's default "Prusament PETG" profile (while this filament is PC, not PETG, I found the settings of this profile to produce cosmetically acceptable prints). This profile included the cooling fan enabled with an auto fan setting of 30-50% and a bridge fan of 50%. Temperature was 240/85 for the first layer and 250/90 for subsequent layers. As you can see in the picture, this yielded a cosmetically nice print. However, and this is the important part, layer adhesion tests using a layer adhesion test model on Thingiverse showed that prints with the cooling fan enabled had compromised layer adhesion. With the fan enabled, I was easily able to break the layer adhesion test by hand. Prints made without a fan yielded a layer adhesion test that I could not break by hand. The manufacturer recommends printing without cooling fan. I second this recommendation -- you've paid for this expensive filament, it's worth taking the time to get a fan-less (or "fan-minimal") profile to ensure the best layer adhesion.Warping. I do not print with an enclosure, and I found warping to be minimal on the size prints that I do. I did have one very wide (from one side of the bed to the other) print pull up on a corner on me, but I've had that same problem with PETG on very wide models. Adding a brim probably would have prevented the issue.Carbon Fibers. After printing with this filament, I usually run a clear cleaning filament through my hot end. Putting that extruded cleaning filament under a microscope, carbon fibers cleaned out of the hot end are clearly visible. They are small hair-like strands.Heat deformation test. I performed a test using this filament together with PETG as a baseline reference, heating a rectangular print up at 5 degree increments, applying some load stress, until I noticed deformation. This filament began to deform at about 100C. The PETG reference began to deform at about 90C.Developing a fan-less profile. I began with the Prusament PETG profile that I used to print the SirLayersalot, and made several changes. First, I increased retraction distance to 2mm, lift-z 1mm, and retraction speed to 50mm/s. The filament does tend to ooze a bit, and the retraction will help prevent ooze artifacts on your prints. Next, I brought the temperature down to 235C. I set the extrusion multiplier to 0.98, to prevent material accumulation on the nozzle. I disabled the "fan always on" setting, and changed the fan speed to vary from 1% to 5%, instead of 30%-50%. These fan speeds I chose not to achieve any cooling, as 5% should be negligible, but rather to enable Slic3r's "slow down if layer print time is below" setting to slow down the print speed for very small layers (more on that in a moment). I set the bridging fan speed to 30%, as I think bridging is one case where some fan is acceptable and useful to achieve decent bridges. You can get the filament to bridge without a fan, but the first layer of bridge will sag a little. It's probably something to evaluate on a print-by-print basis depending on how much bridging you have. I turned on the "detect bridging perimeters" setting.I'm also attaching a picture of a "Prusa Mk3 Nozzle Fan" print that I made with this filament. It took me about a dozen attempts to dial this part in using my fan-less profile described above. The biggest issue was the small mounting tab with the countersunk bolt hole on the top of the print. This tab is a small feature, with small fast layers, and without a fan it is possible to overheat this tab and cause it to sag and deform. The solution, recommended to me on the prusa forum, was to print something else a few inches away on the bed. This technique causes the print head to move away just long enough to keep from overheating and deforming the print. So I printed two of them at a time. After the dozen attempts, I did end up with a nozzle fan good enough to install on my printer. I'm now printing the Mk3S version.The third picture I'm attaching are some large rectangular prints. These are the aforementioned prints that went from one side of the print bed to the other. These are part of a COB LED light bracket that I'm making, where I wanted a bit of additional temperature resistance beyond what I would normally get with PETG. The prints turned out at least as good as my PETG versions, are stiffer, more opaque, more matte, and should have a higher temperature resistance.The final verdict. It took some persistence getting this filament to print well, but I feel the experience was worthwhile. The resulting print is: 1) More rigid than PETG, 2) Has a higher temperature resistance than PETG, and 3) Has a nice matte finish. Plan to invest some time dialing in your settings and try to reduce fan usage to a minimum to achieve the best layer adhesion and part strength. Avoid the fan altogether if you can.

This review is for both the Priline Carbon Fiber PetG and the Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate filaments. These are my two favorite filaments, each having different advantages. I've printed more than three rolls of the Polycarbonate, and most of 1 roll of the newer PetG. Both are easy to print and the parts look amazing.I make functional parts used in mechanical assemblies. A year ago I abandoned PLA because PLA parts have a "Cheap" look and deform at relatively low temperatures (such as in a hot car).All my printing is done on Prusa i3 MK3Ss. The only modification I've made is to replace the nozzle with a 0.4mm E3D V6 Hardened Steel Nozzle (a hardened nozzle is required for printing any carbon fiber filament). I print on Prusa's textured bed which gives the bottom layer an appealing finish.PLA has a "Glass Transition Temperature" as low as 60°C/140°F, too low for functional parts. PetG is around 80°C/176°F and Polycarbonate is even higher, making either of these Priline CF filaments suitable for my needs.The biggest benefit of carbon fiber filaments is cosmetic. One would think that CF filaments improve rigidity, but my experience shows that the gains are small if any. In truth almost all CF-PetG and CF-PC filaments, including the Priline, make parts that are not as stiff as PLA, but instead are "Tougher" (by being based on PetG and Polycarbonate). Another benefit to these carbon fiber filaments is that there is little or no stringing.Again, a big problem I have with PLA prints is they look cheap. These carbon fiber filaments make parts that appear much more professional. Of the two filaments, I feel the prints from the CF Polycarbonate look the best, especially the perimeter faces which show no layer lines, instead having a beautiful matte black textured finish.The Priline Carbon Fiber PetG prints are also good looking, but a bit shinier than the Poly (still a much more appealing flat black than you get from normal PetG or PLA). Where the CF-PetG wins big is with minimal wrapping/shrinking, it's very dimensionally accurate. For example I designed a timing pulley, 6" in diameter, 0.4" thick, having 8 top and bottom layers. With the CF-Polycarbonate I could not get it to print completely flat, whereas the CF-PetG printed perfectly. Also with the CF-PetG bridging is much better than the Poly (because the Poly is printed with the fan off).I've discovered a few tips when printing CF on Prusa's textured bed. The textured bed produces a really nice finish on the part's bottom. To get the best finish with CF filaments, I slow printing of the first layer down to 16mm/sec.I find parts look best with more of a matte black than a shiny black color. The textured bottom can appear sparkly rather than matte, especially with the CF-PetG. To get a more matte finish I add a layer of glue stick on the textured bed before printing (I use Prusa's gluestick, others recommend for 3D printing will likely work as well).A cosmetic issue I occasionally have with the Priline CF Polycarbonate is that the bottom layer can show milky whitish streaks (printed on either a smooth or textured bed) detracting from it's otherwise beautiful finish. This is another problem that I've solved by printing on gluestick.For the Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate, I started with PrusaSlicer's profile for "Polymaker PC-Max". Then changed: + Cost: $49 + Diameter: 1.75 + Extruder first layer temperature: 255 + Extruder other layers temperature: 255 + Bed first layer temperature: 100 + Bed other layers temperature: 100 + Max volumetric speed: 6 + Keep fan always on: No + Enable auto cooling: No + First layer speed: 16For the Priline Carbon Fiber PetG profile, I started with PrusaSlicer's profile for "Prusament PETG". Then changed: + Cost: $49 + Diameter: 1.75 + Extruder first layer temperature: 260 + Extruder other layers temperature: 250 + Bed first layer temperature: 90 + Bed other layers temperature: 80 + Max volumetric speed: 6 + Keep fan always on: Yes + Enable auto cooling: Yes + First layer speed: 16

Estoy realizando un proyecto para construir un telescopio y he probado ya con bastantes materiales técnicos: ASA, PETG con fibra de carbono, Nylon con fibra de carbono, PLA con fibra de carbono. Este filamento Priline de policarbonato con fibra de carbono los supera a todos. Es bastante rígido, sin llegar a la rigidez del PLA, pero es un material casi indestructible. He intentado partir una pequeña pieza de prueba de 4 mm de grosor con todas mis fuerzas, y no he tenido narices de romperla, se dobla un poco al hacer fuerza pero recupera totalmente su posición plana cuando paro.La impresión es también fantástica. Nada de warping, sin grumos, sin atascos, y produce un acabado super suave.Para quién pueda estar interesado, estos son mis settings:-Impresora Artillery Genius-Nozzle de 0,4 de acero endurecido (importante para evitar abrasión)-Cama caliente a 100º C (uso un cristal de borosilicato con clips)-Hotend a 255º C-Altura de capa 0,2 mm-Velocidad de impresión 40 mm/s-Ventilador de capa al 50%Le pongo 4 estrellas porque el pedido tarda en llegar, en mi caso 15 días.

Buongiorno,premetto che da tempo stampo materiali tecnici e Vi garantisco che questo prodotto non e' policarbonato caricato fibra di carbonio la stampa avviene a 244C° e si attacca molto bene al piatto in PEI alla sola temperatura di 30C°, se viene portato a temperature piu' alte supportate dal vero policarbinato, il filamento inizia a fare fumo bianco che ti fa pizzicare la gola, le stampe vengono dimensionalmente bene grazie alla sua GOMMOSITA' .Sarebbe necessaria un'analisi chimico fisica del materiale per poter dire esattamente di cosa si tratta, ma e' ovvio che non si tratta di policarbonato.Come al solito, e di questo sono DISPIACIUTO al mondo basta un' etichetta e qualche foto per confondere molte persone, Io ho speso 47 euro circa piu spedizione per un materiale che ne vale 10 euro.ATTENTI - PRILINE CHINA COSI' VI GIOCATE LA CREDIBILITA' e STATE METTENDO IN CATTIVA LUCE VOI STESSI E INDIRETTAMENTE QUELLE AZIENDE CHE SONO ANCORA EMERGENTI E QUINDI POCO CONOSCIUTE PER LE LORO QUALITA'.QUESTI GIOCHETTI PRIMA O POI VI SI RITORCERANNO CONTRO E RICORDATE CHE L'ONESTA' LA CORRETTEZZA LA PROFESSIONALITA' SONO L'ANIMA DI UN'AZIENDA.TUTTI SBAGLIAMO, MA QUI NON C'E' ERRORE🤥🤨"Un ultima cosa non abbiate la superbia di pensare che nel mondo ci siano persone stupide da ILLUDERE tanto cosa capiscono i furbi siamo solo noi l'importante che i clienti paghino il prodotto e facciano salire il profitto, se va bene chi se ne accorge."Corriere China molto rapidoComplimenti al corriereClienti Amazon SIATE Sempre ATTENTICordiali Saluti

Print perfect with no tuning on polycarbonate setting on flashforge adventurer 4Nice finish and no problemsI'm using purple glue stick for bed adhésion

È la prima volta che uso questo tipo di filamento, sono veramente soddisfatto dei risultati

Meilleur que le polymax pc, vraiment super ... pour connaisseur