🛁 Refresh your tub, refresh your vibe—glossy, safe, and proudly American!
The Ekopel Bathtub Refinishing Kit is a premium, odorless, and non-toxic epoxy resin coating made in the USA. Designed for easy DIY application, it delivers a high-gloss, durable finish that revitalizes bathtubs, sinks, and tiles. The kit includes all necessary tools and offers a fast 24-hour cure time, ensuring a long-lasting, peel-resistant surface compatible with porcelain, fiberglass, and more.
Material | oil based |
Brand | Refinished Bath Solutions |
Item Weight | 300 Grams |
Compatible Material | Porcelain, Fiberglass |
Water Resistance Level | Water Resistant |
Item Form | Epoxy Resin |
UPC | 746729139071 |
Unit Count | 80.0 Fl Oz |
Style | Pour On Touch Up |
Number of Items | 1 |
Color | White |
Surface Recommendation | Bathtubs, Sink, Tub, Shower, Casr Iron, Steel, Ceramic, Fiberglass |
Manufacturer | Pabrec Ekopel USA/RB Solutions Ekopel Refinished Bath Solutions |
Part Number | Eko |
Item Weight | 10.6 ounces |
Package Dimensions | 6.57 x 5.67 x 2.52 inches |
Country of Origin | USA |
Size | 2 Piece Set |
Finish | High-Gloss |
Coverage | 1 Standard Tub |
Usage | Bathtub Refinishing |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
K**S
This products ROCKS!!
I am SO impressed with this product! I had a hideous gold fiberglass tub and surround that wasn’t in the budget to replace. The roll on product was very easy to use and gives an incredible result, but I will give you a few tips:1. Prep is everything! Fortunately we were completely redoing this bathroom so I didn’t have to worry about the product getting on the floor, but you’re going to want to make sure to cover the entire floor and anything close to the tub (sink, toilet). And scrub/sand better than you’ve ever done in your life!2. THIN COATS! Roll this stuff as thin as you possibly can to avoid runs and make sure you have enough product to cover the entire area.3. High-quality foam rollers are essential. I did the first coat with some crappy rollers that ended up getting bits of foam in the finish. I was kind of freaking out, but that leads me to my next tip:2. This product is surprisingly forgiving! thought I had gotten every trace of silicone off, but after the first coat I noticed there were some areas where it wasn’t taking, in addition to the bits of foam. Don’t fear! You can gently sand between coats on any rough spots, and the second coat will cover beautifully.During the rest of the bathroom reno we ended up accidentally dropping things (screwdrivers, levels) on the tub, and not a scratch in sight! I seriously can’t believe how well this stuff works.
M**.
It's a tedious and time consuming process but it beats the alternatives!
Watched several videos before tackling this project of refinishing an old cast iron tub which had the porcelain worn through in the bottom so badly that the cast iron was showing through the bottom of the tub. Make no mistake, this is a tedious process and requires a high degree of patience and precision and precise following of instructions.My tub had shower doors mounted so the face of the tub was isolated. On the initial pour it appeared that there was not enough product to do the face of the tub. However, after the full inside and three upper sides of the tub were covered with product, the scoop out overage would have been enough to do the front face. I did not realize this at the time and so all the overage was sopped up with paper towels and discarded. Not a big deal for me since the face of the tub was in good shape and the shower door separated the two surfaces.I left the tape on my drain and tub overflow until about 24hrs because I was afraid to remove it during the wet/flowing stage. This turned out to not be a big deal and the tape removal went well.
M**Y
Fantastic product - read for tips
Update:I do have to deduct a star for one thing that we found. This stuff stains surprisingly easy and is really hard to clean. My daughters primarily use this shower and they have a lot of colorful bath and body products such as gel sugar scrubs and shampoos. If they leave a small amount on the tub after they get out. It will stain the white tub. It is possible to get it out, but it requires a lot of scrubbing. A regular bleach spray wouldn't work. I used a toilet bowel cleaner gel with bleach and soaked the area for about 15 minutes and then used a magic eraser. Even then it took a while, but that's the only thing that worked for me. Instructed the kids to rinse out the tub after every use. Still no chips though and product is holding strong.I don't tend to write lengthy reviews. However, I was so impressed with this product that I felt like I had to give anybody thinking about utilizing this, some tricks to make it go smooth. I am not a professional by any means, but I am pretty good at completing most small non complicated projects around the house. I looked at quite a few options for similar products and this stood out for me after watching several professional remodelers test different products. This seemed the most durable while still being user friendly.Tip #1 The prep work is the key. This product comes with detailed instructions on what to use to prep the surface you are using it for. In my case it was a bathtub. Put the majority of your time into the prep. I actually did a few extra steps as well to make sure that the application looked good. After cleaning the tub I scrubbed the surface with steel wool throughout the whole tub to really get off any stuck on soap scum. Make sure you sand the tub really well too. I used a rotary drill sand paper attachment and with 240 the paper wears out really fast. I had to use about 4 sheets of it.Tip #2 - Have small metal tweezers available or a metal putty knife. Even though I put several hours into the prep, your initial coat will still have some small imperfections. They kind of look like the coat will avoid certain areas like grease and water mixed. You can take the putty knife and scrape the area a bit and reapply with the roller. This typically will help remove those spots. DONT dab it with a paper towel. This stuff is sticky and you will leave paper residue and it is very hard to get out. The tweezers are useful for hair. Inevitably as I was applying this stuff a small arm hair or something would fall into the tub. Huge pain in the butt to get out. Tweezers are a good option to remove this and only disrupt a small area. You could wear a hair net and long sleeves too. Not a bad option.Tip #3 - Don't do the second coat after 3 hours. I put a light coat on for the first coat it still wasn't dry after 3 hours. Part of that reason is I checked on it every 20 minutes after the first coat to clean up any drips or fix small problem areas. I would plan on doing that for at least the first 2 hours if you want the coat to look really good.Tip #4 - Remove the drain for the tub and just replace it. I tried to tape it off and it came out pretty decent, but this stuff is crazy strong. After it cured and I was removing tape there were some sections I had to scrape out with a razor blade and even that took a while. Much easier to just remove the drain, roll out the area, and then replace it with a shiny new one.Once I did the first coat. The second coat was much easier. I did a thicker coat and didn't have to worry about imperfections as much. I can say the tub came out fantastic. I can't speak to the durability yet, but based off my drain issue I can say that it is really strong stuff. One thing I forgot to mention. I had some small pits in the tub as well. I used JB Waterweld putty and filled in the holes level to the tub surface. Let it cure completely and this stuff will cover it no problem. You will never even know the defect was there.
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