Dash Cam Hardwire Kit, Micro USB Hard Wire Kit for Dashcam, Plozoe 12V-24V to 5V Car Dash Camera Charger Power Cord, Gift 4 Fuse Tap Cable and Installation Tool（11.5ft）

Overall, a good accessory to have. Keeps the USB plugs at the console free for my regular stuff. Most of the time needed to install the kit was finding a fuse that did not power off when the ignition was turned off. I wanted camera monitoring while the car was parked. Note that the fuse adapter is not marked to indicate which slot should have the larger amperage fuse. If you remove a 20 amp fuse, it needs to be inserted into the correct adapter slots or the 5 amp fuse provided with the power module will actually be in the 20 amp circuit......and a new 5 amp fuse will be needed when that seat heater is turned on! This takes a few minutes to figure out with an ohm meter or continuity light. Make sure your selected fuse is not a critical circuit like headlights, control computer, etc. Placing the wire under the interior trim and headliner edge to reach the mirror location was pretty easy in my car. Highly recommend placing the camera end of the wire at the camera location and checking the wire length along your planned wiring route to make sure the power module can be mounted out of sight. The installation prying tool that was provided with the kit was helpful, but having two helped with tight fitting trim pieces. I have a small kit of plastic trim prying tools from the local car parts place. An extra one came in handy. So far, module works fine. Will update. Update - module still working with no issues. A good option for a permanent camera installation.

Product seems high quality. Installation was straightforward. I purchased this "single lead" kit for my Garmin Dash Cam Mini 2 because I did not need or want the Parking Mode feature. I used an "Accessory" fuse. The dash cam worked fine, but I noticed it turn off after a few minutes, then back on a few minutes later, and then back on... Garmin (understandably) does not support 3rd party installation kits. They were not helpful except to point out in their literature that 3rd party cables are not compatible with Garmin products. I went ahead and bought the Garmin Parking Mode cable ($35) and installed it using Accessory fuses for both the battery (normally always powered) and Accessory leads as I do not want the device powered when the vehicle is off. So far, so good. No issues with the device cycling on and off. When you start the car, the camera comes on. When you shut the vehicle off, the camera is off. Not sure why the other cable kit didn't work with the Garmin, but I had issues. 5 stars, though, for what appears to be a good quality kit.

This kit is super easy to install, and the cord length is more than enough (understatement, I had so much extra cord lol). I never used a kit like this before but after watching a YouTube video I installed it with an apeman dash cam (make sure to check if your cam is micro usb or usb c to make sure you get the kit that has the right compatibility ) and it works flawless. The kit is good quality as my dash cam runs 24/7 with no hiccups now. The value is great because if something ever happens to my car I’ll know that it’s been recorded, whether I was in the car or not.

I bought this to hook up a mini dashcam in my SUV and it worked fine after a bit of setup. I needed the right angled micro connector to keep a small footprint on the windshield and this seemed like the perfect fit. After routing the nicely flexible black usb type cable under the headliner/panels etc to behind the fuse box in the passenger footwell I still had a good 18" left over and zip tied the excess with the converter box to the frame behind a panel. Screwing on the ground wire was no problem and one of the fuse extenders fit perfectly but then I hit a problem. After everything was connected I had no power to the camera and after quite a bit of messing around I found that the red wire that connects the converter to the fuse extender had broken off at the connector. This wire is super thin and was being held onto the clip by the plastic sheath so it was hard to see the break. I had to solder this together in the footwell, upside down, which was a challenge but when reconnected everything was fine. One thing to be conscious of when doing this work is if it took a long time to route everything and the vehicle lights were on, the battery may have gone below the safety threshold causing the converter will turn off. This will look like no power until you actually start the engine [this happened to me after the solder job causing me to doubt my soldering skills]. However despite the problem I had, which may have been me not being careful, I recommend this product though they could use thicker wire.

Initially after installing my kit i had an issue where there was no power going to the car that i installed the kit onto, make sure you plug in both fuses or you'll have the same power issue as i did. I don't remember seeing instructions for that anywhere, so the install isnt completely idiot-proof. I liked that the kit includes a plastic tool for popping panels and fixtures off so i didnt have to buy a separate one, also the kit has multiple fuses and adapters so you likely have what you need. The only thing i can complain about is that the included fuse was not the right amps for what i needed, i had to get a kit with one that was the right size and amps for my particular install, this may be specific to my car though.

I would give it zero or even negative stars if I could. It says that a voltage regulator will shut it off before your car's battery gets drained. I learned it the hard way that it does NOT. I thought it was working fine, but in hindsight, my car was getting by because I was driving everyday, recharging the battery. One weekend, I didn't drive my car, and my car wouldn't start on Monday, which made me late to my work. I didn't think to suspect that this was the cause and assumed that my battery had gone bad, so I replaced my battery (cost me $150 or so). Then, I thought it was working fine. But, another weekend came, and I didn't drive my car for a few days. My battery was dead again. That's when I realized that it wasn't the battery. I even brought my car to a mechanic to make sure that there wasn't any other cause for this, and my car checked out just fine. The mechanic also agreed that my dash cam was killing my battery. I connected this wire to a different fuse that would only work when engine was turned on. Then, there was never an issue. So yea, this faulty product cost me $150 that I shouldn't have needed to pay! Extremely frustrating. Now I can't even use my dash cam's parking mode either. HORRIBLE.

I purchased this accessory to use with my OMBAR Dash Cam Front and Rear 4K/2K/1080P+1080P 5G WiFi GPS, Dash Camera for Cars with Free 64G SD Card, Dual Dash Cam with WDR Night Vision, 24h Parking Mode,170°Wide, G-Sensor, Loop Recording, APP. I picked this Hard wire kit because amazon "suggested" it when I picked out the camera. I wanted to hard wire my camera so that it I could make use for the 24 hour parking mode. However when the tech guy was connecting he noticed that the shape of the Hard wire connector to the camera was such that the space would not permit to connect the Rear camera cable to the front camera. So the tech guy ended up connecting it, BUT I am not able to use the 24 hour parking mode feature. The tech guy worked a connection by which I do not have to connect the camera to the light socket BUT it only works for when the car is on.

Works perfectly. Great amount of cable to work with. Prybar helped a lot. Great little kit.