SavogranWood Bleach - 12oz Oxalic Acid Wood Bleach for Furniture w/Unfinished or Stripped Wood - Oxalic Acid Powder for Bleaching Wood & Removing Tannin & Black Water Spots - Wood Stain Remover

Does the job and I love it. Thank you

Worked great for removing watermarks from an old roof leak (on unfinished cedar).Careful application is needed though, I used art brush to only go over stain marks and it came off completely. Love this product.

It works. I can't compare to others about the strength and ease, as I have only used this once.

I actually ended up buying this locally because I didn't want to wait. I used it to bleach out some black marks on a midcentury danish dresser top and it worked perfectly. I applied it lightly, waited 10-15 minutes to wipe off excess and spray water on it to remove the bleach. Wiped down with dry rag and repeated the process. Probably could have done it a 3rd time, but I was happy with my result. After it dried completely overnight, I applied Daly's seafin teak oil--2 coats following their directions.

Good for dealing with some untrained oak flooring that our schnauzer found to be adequate for an “emergency” pee—-just read instructions, take precautions (toxic to man and dog!) and don’t try to go for the touchdown first throw—still have most of the e container left (well sealed!)

First, the product arrived quickly and was packaged well. I got it on Sunday with Amazon Prime.I purchased this because I am moving out of an apartment and my dog had urinated on the 100 year old hardwood floor. It had pooled under my dresser and left a black spot about 12" x 18". To start, the stain was as dark as ink.To start, I cleaned the area very well. Then dried it thoroughly. Then, I sanded all the varnish away with a course grain sandpaper.I mixed the wood bleach solution, put it in a spray bottle and sprayed the effected area.And... nothing. I let it sit until it dried, then rinsed it away. Still nothing.For the next day, every time I went by, I applied another application. Probably five times. Still no change.Finally, I decided that maybe I didn't get all the varnish off, so I bought a varnish stripper and used that.I then applied another treatment and saw a small amount of progress. Not much though.Again, every time I went by, I added more. Rinsing away the old layer each time.On the third day, I bought a hair dryer. I figured at this point, the floor was probably pretty saturated, yet as good as it's going to get.I rinsed away the product six times, using fresh water each time, then dried it with the blow dryer.As the area dried, it got white from the wood bleach residue.So I repeated. Water. Water. Water. Dryer. Water. Water. Water. Dryer. Over and over. Literally 50 times.Each time, the area got a little bit lighter. Evntually, the lightening stopped. But I just couldn't get that residue out.I used vinegar, then rubbing alcohol. Then I soaked paper towels in a mixture of the two and let it sit on the area for about 20 minutes.Then I scrubbed with the soaked towels.Water, water, water. Dryer.Still white residue!Then I bought a deck brush and scrubbed with vinegar, then water. Over and over. Dryer.Still white.This whole rinsing process took 4 hours of straight working on it.Finally I dried it for about 10 minutes and decided that the residue was there forever.The last vain attempt was fairly helpful. I sprayed it down with furniture polish, let it sit a few minutes, wiped it down. Dryer.It was much better! Still had some residue. But I was done at this point.I make sure it was really dry, then sanded again.Then brushed it all away and stained.The result isn't perfect, but isn't terrible.If this wasn't so much work, I'd give it 5 stars.While it's not perfect, this is the only product out there that has any effect on water stains on wood.The alternative was to replace the planks.However, my total time on this project was 9 hours. 2 the first day, 3 the second, 4 the third. And that's straight manual labor time.It would have been faster to replace the wood. And likely cheaper, as I spent $10 on varnish remover, $5 on a hard bristle brush, $3 on gloves, $25 on a hair dryer, plus the cost of the wood bleach.But I did work, sort of.So if this is the only option, definitely buy it! But first, consider what your time is worth.

As advertised the product lightened the stain from the red oak flooring after I sanded it. But the instructions say to counter act the acid with a base like baking soda. That did the opposite and turned the wood black like charcoal. I had to sand the wood again and the clear coat reacted to the residual chemicals and turned white where I had applied. I'm going to assume this is all my fault but I'm cautioning you to test this on something first before applying it to a refinished hardwood floor.

I used this on one piece of red oak exactly 6 inches by 25 inches. I marked this board with a pencil prior to applying fully expecting to have to re mark it after the bleaching process. Well over the course of 14 hours I used the whole bag mixed as per the instructions. Absolutely nothing happen, I still have pencil marks on the board....not even a little faded. I feel kinda of silly neutraizing this acid because it's so pitifully weak. Should have bought beer and a dark stain