CRC3084 Dry Moly Lube, (Net Weight: 11 oz.) Dark Gray, Original Version

Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with.Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show.Things we learned:1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.Other tips.Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.Picture notes:Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup").Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.

Dries quickly and does what it is supposed to do.

This dry moly is a superb product! it was recommended to me by a highly experienced Caterpillar diesel mechanic to lubricate machinery in a very dusty environment. In my case it was the trunnions and bearings in my Delta Unisaw that are bathed in dust every time it is used. It has worked extremely well; better than graphite or any other product that you can get at the local NAPA/hardware store/ O'Reilly, etc. Does not attract dust. Basically it consists of a dry lubricant, Molybdenum diSulfide in an acetone or other volatile matrix. So it goes on fast, the acetone evaporates leaving the lube behind. Because the matrix is volatile it can't be used in a flammable environment like around a pilot light for example - drama will ensue.It can be messy. It sticks sort of like paint film to every surface that it comes in contact with like your hands or adjacent painted surfaces. So use it with care. But it works, it lasts and it is a darn good product.

I used this to lubricate the brake wiring and controls on our golf cart. It worked well but boy does it smell! Also, it would have been nice to have a tube attached to the spray nozzle to help direct the spray. The push button has no provision for that.

Most the reviews are about laser engraving. As for the actual lubrication, it is fantastic for the fact that it doesn’t attract dirt! An oil or grease lubricant will reduce friction more, however they will attract every particle of dirt like glue. This lube is fantastic for tools like pocket knifes and channel locks because those will often pick up dirt over time with a tradition oil or grease. Note there is a grey film left behind. I actually like this as it’s a visual indicator when I should apply more.For anything that shouldn’t be in contact with dirt, use a traditional lube, but for anything that could be, this is the stuff to get.

I bought it as dry lube for my trailer jack screws. I like it a lot because it doesn't attract dirt. I also use it on the trailer hitch. It'll wear off after a few hundred miles, but I just squirt some more on. It doesn't come off like grease.

I was excited to use this on my pcp rifle inner metal on metal parts like the hammer and tube. After polishing everything to a mirror finish I sprayed with this and let it dry. After 24 hours a put everything back together and noticed right away it was not as slick as I was hoping for. After some light use I saw the surface was scratched off and actually boogered up in some areas. The hammer and tube has a very low tolerance of space so maybe it’s just too thick of a film? I sprayed 2 coats. It actually feels like there is more resistance after applying than there was beforehand so I’m gonna put everything in acetone to clean this stuff off and use a thin layer of synthetic oil with teflon instead.

I used this dry moly lube as a replacement for CerMark for laser etching on stainless steel bottle openers, and it worked great! For those trying to do something similar, here's how I did it. The equipment was a Universal 40W CO2 laser. To prep the bottle openers I peeled off the stickers that they came with and cleaned off the gunk with ispropyl. I sprayed the side I wanted to mark with the dry moly and waited a half hour for it to dry, then sprayed on a second coat. To mark I used the stainless steel direct marking Universal material pre-set (100% power and ~7% speed). I was only doing text (no grayscale rasterings) but the etchings came out great. To remove the excess moly coating after the laser, I soaked the openers in a shallow bin of isopropyl for about 15 minutes and it just wiped off with a sponge (the photos below are before final cleaning, just rubbed with a scrubbing sponge under running water).