XL6009 2-Pack DC-DC Buck Boost Converter - Automatic Wide Voltage Regulator 5-32V to 1.25-35V

I have an old Extech Multiscope multimeter that doubles as a (very bad) oscilloscope. I keep it around mostly because it fits in a tool bag and is useful for looking at voltage/current waveforms at mains voltages (120+ volts). It gets dragged out when I fire up a generator to check voltage and frequency, for example. Yeah, there's better tools for this but it cost me almost nothing, so... One thing it does really well is kill batteries. Extech knew this and placed a 9V power jack on the side of the beast so you can power it from a wall plug. If you use rechargeable batteries in it, you can also charge them without removing them from the meter. Except... it doesn't work. A 9V charger is barely enough to get the LCD to display a reading, and it sure won't charge batteries. I used a variable power supply to determine that it needs around 10.5V to actually work (at least mine does). The cheapest way to make that happen was to cut the cord on a generic 9V wall charger, wire this buck/boost converter in series, and shrink-wrap the whole mess back up. This took less than 15 minutes to do. I set the output voltage for 10.5V and plugged it in. The meter works perfectly on this. The charge cord now has a big lump in the middle of it where the boost converter is wired. I have to be careful not to throw the charger around too much or get it snagged on something for fear of ripping the wires loose. Since I only use the charger when the meter is on the bench, this is no big deal. The converter worked out of the box and I have a second one just waiting for another project.

I am going to be using these to power an Arduino and automotive sensors. I set one to 8.25 volts to power the Arduino using my bench power supply. I can power it on and off and my Fluke MM always reports the set voltage. The second one I'm using to power automotive sensors. I set that one to 4.9998 volts using my Keysight bench MM and every time I turn the power off and on, it reports the same output voltage. Got to love 4 digit stable voltages.

Pretty great product for what you pay. It's value comes with some inefficiencies as mentioned in other reviews. However, I took one star off for another reason: the board is probably designed to fail. The output (+) pad is way too close to one of the surface mount capacitors on the output and if you're not careful, or if you like to ensure a proper solder with a generous amount of solder, you may end up with a faulty board. I imagine that some of the bad reviews are because of this poor design. Nevertheless, avoiding connecting the two places, it works within most of it's design parameters and is serving well for a regulator in one of my microcontroller projects. So for a low price, its a good component--just gotta watch out for soldering around that pad.

I've got a camper with a 12V system and been trying to figure out the best way to run my 24V devices. I was trying to find some 12v DC input power supplies when I came across this. Since my 24v devices don't have high amperage requirements, this seemed like a perfect solution! It's easy enough to change the voltage, just need a tiny flathead and a multimeter. This will definitely be easier if you have a friend to hold the multimeter probes to the output side of this board as it can be a bit tricky to try and adjust the voltage while holding the probes to the board. Alternately if you have a cooler multimeter kit, just use the gator clamps that came with it. Either way, once you get it to your desired voltage just solder up some wires of appropriate thickness, put this in some kind of small project box (3D printer opportunity here) then move on with life. This was definitely a great investment for the price over some of the other adapters I've seen, required minimal work and was a fun little project. Oh and don't forget to double check power requirements for the device you want to power and also fuse things because safety and stuff.

Works great, did plug one into a power supply backward and it exploded and no longer works but that is to be expected. Mine came with heat sinks to attack to it but no adhesive to attach it with, but I don't think it ever got hot enough to need the heat sync.

Seems to maintain a constant output voltage no matter its input voltage - to within about 0.1V in my experience. I haven't varied tried sinking more than about 0.5A yet. Unit only got slightly warmer than ambient temp at that load for a few hours. Haven't tested at higher currents yet, but my application doesn't require it.

...or other rapid current-limiting sources: Whenever I'm trying out an item like this for the first time, I begin with my bench power supply and set the current limit to something reasonable like 0.5-1A so it doesn't explode in case of a severe fault. I'll also often give it a nominal resistive load so that the regulation is working while I trim the output voltage (I happen to have a lot of 35ohm power resistors around from an old project, and I'm often working with 12v systems, so 12/35 = about 1/3A, a nice medium load). My application right now is to take a battery input that might range from 10-14v and make a fixed 12.0v, with a required current capacity of not more than 1A. So I connect everything up (12v supply, 35ohm load), enable my bench supply's output, and the current limit kicks in right away, limiting its own output voltage to 3-4v. I thought: okay, sometimes these things need a bit of a surge on startup to get going. Maxed my bench supply's current limit at 3A, same deal: the converter sits there with (I think) the internal power switch turned on, shorting the input to ground through the first inductor. 3A x 4v = 12W; the IC is getting hot fast. The output is doing all kinds of wild things, down under 1v, up over 15v or more, changing on its own without me touching the trim pot. At this point I'm very concerned to be using this in a battery application... But I had the thought that maybe my power supply is soft-starting in a way that still isn't providing enough surge current. So I unclip the alligator, turn on the supply, then clip it to the converter again - and it works! So be warned: if your power supply can't support the inrush current while maintaining the minimum input voltage (5v?), then it will remain latched in a conducting state, potentially making a lot of heat. Surely they could have been designed better, but what can I say, they're really cheap. Another user suggested a modification with a resistor and zener diode that holds the IC in the 'disable' state until the input voltage is high enough; maybe that would solve this problem too.

I tried these on multiple applications even on a breadboard. The voltage kept changing, then it wouldn't change at all no matter how long I turned the potentiometer or which way, then it suddenly started working then the audio started sounding terrible and the voltage once again would not go up or down. I can't get either of the2 I purchased to run stable if I can even get them to work at all with the small variety of amps I have (1 watt and under). Batteries? no problem. But these things? Days and days and I finally threw in the towel and just sticking with straight batteries from now on or try a different type of device if I ever recuperate and cool down from this week straight of pulling my !@#$%! hair out!

I've used a lot of these and never had a problem (that wasn't my fault). These are doing what they are supposed to do.

Terrible. Only one of the 3 i purchased actually worked. 2 won't output the correct voltage once set. Set it to 3.7v and it still outputs the same as the supply voltage.

I've had this module connected to my 12V bench supply for a few hours now and can only adjust the output from 12V to over 30V, but not down to 9V where I need it. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but it seems to be a boost module, not a buck!