Permatex 82099 Spray Sealant, 12 oz.

First time using this. Hope that ir seals the area needed. Sprays on well. Tape off the area you do not what the over spray on.

16 Month Update:Code never came back. This product sealed the vacuum leak - which had been plaguing me for years.*************For a long time I had been having an intermittent check engine code that relates to the evap emissions test part of the OBDII on my 2005 Mercedes C230. It does not affect the operation of the vehicle or the engine. It just means there is a small vacuum leak when the system tests itself which throws the code. Consequently you can’t get your car smogged or registered. I read in various places that this is a common problem with this vehicle and even watched YouTube videos of people addressing repairs etc. I learned thanks to all this information (!) that there is a specific spot close to and just behind where the fuel filler opening is located. The part includes a plastic barb which a hose connects to. The barb develops a hairline crack causing a “small evap leak” (P0456).Many people solved their issue by replacing the entire filler neck assembly, which can cost anywhere from $150 for a used part to $500 for a new part. Not to mention the 2-4 hours in labor.The vehicle has a rubber shroud directly behind the fuel inlet which you can push down with a flat screwdriver. You can see right in that location where the suspect part is located. I used the straw attachment and sprayed all over that area about 5-8 coats of this liquid Permatex. It sprays on like liquid and congeals into a nice rubber sealant after a few minutes.I have not had the P0456 code since using this spray sealant. Given the tight space limitations involved, there’s no way I could’ve made this repair using a different product.I would recommend this product for any low pressure (or vacuum) leaks. The straw sprayer is perfect so you can get into tight spaces. It seems particularly suited for things like what I accomplished - sealing a hose/barb fitting - a weak spot in any vacuum system.

Not a permanent solution. Displaces oil well, but does not seal through it. Will not seal a leak under pressure, even pressure of gravity. requires pre-cleaning with brake cleaner or equivalent, and multiple coats for a good seal.Sealed my ATF leak for just long enough to make a real repair (about 1 week).Gloves recommended, it's nasty stuff to get on your hands.

So I had a leaky transmission pan that would go thru about a gallon of transmission fluid a year. I had to constantly check my transmission fluid level and when it was low my car would shift terribly. I've brought my car to two different mechanic shops and neither of them could totally fix the leak. I spent almost $1000 on them.I sprayed about 6 coats of this one day. It helped the leak but didn't stop it. I did the same again and it completely stopped the leak. Years and 5 mechanics later this was the only thing that worked for me. I used this a little over a year ago and it's still not leaking.

It’s ok , but still noticed drop .but very minimal

This products as it says, read the directions it's slowing down my pan leak to a very small drip until i can tackle the replacement.

If I could give this product, a lower star, I would give it negative stars. This product is a waste of money. All it makes is a gooey mess, and it claims to seal leaky fuel tanks. Well, that’s not true. Don’t waste your money.

I used this on an engine rocker box cradle for a FORD POWERSTROKE (similar to people's issues with the Cadillac Northstar engines) and it worked great! First emphasis is to clean the area with degreaser, parts cleaning brush, and wire brush; clean the application area at least 5 times using these tools! Pressure wash the area, a high pressure garden hose will do....if there's still any sign of grime or oil, you must continue step one and clean again! Clean the area larger than the affected area as well.Once the area is clean, start the engine and warm it up to "operating temperature" heck, even 30 mins. to make sure. Shut engine off and clean the affected area with brake cleaner (if that's where your leak is it should be wet with oil). Brake cleaner will blow the oil away as it evaporates on your now hot engine.Spray the product in a steady motion, in both directions over the affected areas. U may wipe once on the first coat only, lightly with a clean cloth only to help remove bubbles formed, but not necessary. Then spray multiple coats each 1 to 2 mins. apart, it's important that you don't wait longer than this as the engine still needs to keep the same temperature as the first coat. Put about 5 or more coats in the areas needed.Finished. U have just sealed the leaking area of the engine!I just want to add that there's reasoning behind every step of the process, and the timing of it. Don't deviate! All the reviews of this stuff not working on engines are due to improper: cleanliness, heating up of engine before application (too cool), amount of coats, and again cleanliness...!!! Lastly, with wherever you're applying this product make sure the two mating parts are tight, if they are loose (ie. loose bolts/fasteners) then this will not work.