BLUE WORKS Printed Circuit Board+Display Board

This unit is more expensive than other similar models from other manufacturers. I chose this one because it had several hundred reviews. Anyway, it was easy to install. I followed a YouTube video for installation instructions. It comes with 110-220 jumpers. I kept the Hayward plastic attachment nubs and used them with this board. I had to jiggle the board slightly from side to side so that face cover would fit over the board. It has been functioning for a couple of weeks and so far so good. The units reading are within +|- 100PPM of local pool place water testing.

This is a perfect replacement if you need a new circuit board. I recently replaced all my equipment including the board, and a generic version like this will cost less than half of the OEM price and work just as well. It will NOT interface with the control panel so if you need to control the chlorination via the Aqualink panel you will need the OEM product.If you salt system is not producing chlorine, before spending the money on a replacement board, check the following - 1) your salt cell - if old than 3-4 years - may be the culprit. Check your salt level is correct, the pool temp is correct, and clean your cell. If you have an inspect cell light on continuously after these steps it is likely your cell. I have had this system 20 years and generally have to replace the salt cell every 4 years or so, despite regular cleaning. 2) Check the flow switch. If no flow is displayed, this could be the problem and is an inexpensive part ($20-25) worth trying. 3) The first time my board went bad it was due to a bad thermistor - there are many videos on youtube explaining this cheap fix and it worked for me the first time. 4) If you know how to use a multimeter, InyoPools.com has a great troubleshooting video that would be worth following to check proper voltages before spending money on a new circuit board.

This item worked great for 1 year, then all of a sudden it quit producing. All lights were indicating production, but no chlorine. Ordered a complete replacement board, and it is cell is now producing visible chlorine coming out the end of the cell. Beware!

The board was easy to install and fixed my problem. This is the second one I have used as the last one was three years old when it failed. The reason for the failure was the cell and not the board. The cell failed and melted the connection from heat on the cell plug in to the board. I will buy again when needed.

I bought this to replaced the Hayward unit pictured. Unit is made in China but I must say it has excellent installation instructions with accompanying photos - unique in my experience for things made in China. The board seems to be working just fine. When paging thru the windows for temp etc, this unit has two pages more than the Hayward. Not sure what they are or mean and really do not care as all the previous pages are in order and display correctly. I suppose it's configured to accommodate other similar units. Regarding the install - I ended up using all the nylon connectors from the removed Hayward circuit board and display unit. Pictured are the ones removed from this replacement assembly. The stubby ones mount the main circuit board to the control box and didn't secure the board very well onto the metal housing. The bigger stems are at least 1/8" longer than the original Hayward stems and used to mount the display unit to the circuit board. I could not get the face plate of the control box to secure over the display unit because it stuck out too far so I used the original stems and it was just fine. The wiring is very simple and clearly marked, with one exception: the power wires (should be the only two without connectors). Take a picture of your original install before separating the wires. The unit, like the Hayward, can be used with 120v or 220v and this variable is why the power connectors are not marked. Install the lines and jumpers in the same location as the original and you should be fine. Four Stars instead of five due to the nylon connectors - all else is fine.

I bought this for $102 delivered, as well as the main circuit board for $182 delivered; for a total of $284. The pool companies do not do repairs on older equipment and the cost of a new Hayward AquaRite Salt Chlorination system without installation is over $2000. I sent several emails to the seller with pictures and specifications and determined that these parts were what I needed. After watching several YouTube videos and the seller's videos, I was able to replace both parts myself. I am a 75-year-old woman without any mechanical background, so if you are handy and are able to follow instructions, you can do this yourself.

Took 2-3 days to trouble shoot the problem. Without instructions, the installation was time consuming. installing it wasn't hard but the calibration and setup took a while even with customer support being they were outsourced to a different country and was hard to understand them. Still not sure what my salt reading is. They told me the 3.2 I was viewing was equivalent to 3200 salt level, but it hasn't changed but to 3.1 and back to 3.2 in a month. I can't see the salt level not decreasing as time goes on. The instructions they told me to change it to the 3200 didn't work. I pretty much had to figure things on my own for troubleshooting. The only reason I gave them a 3 was because they were good about calling back and trying to fix the issues even though their advice didn't always work.